Newnum and Sons Garage

What Is Limp Mode on a Car? Causes, Warning Signs, and How to Fix It Fast You press the gas pedal, but your car barely responds. The speed won’t climb. A warning light flashes on the dashboard. It feels like your vehicle has suddenly lost its strength. You might be experiencing limp mode. If that sounds alarming, take a breath. Limp mode is not your car giving up on you. In fact, limp mode is your car’s way of protecting itself. Let’s break down the limp mode meaning, why it happens, the common symptoms, and how to fix limp mode quickly and safely here in Covington, IN. What Is Limp Mode on a Car? Limp mode on a car is a built-in safety feature that limits your engine power and performance when something is wrong. You may also hear it called “limp home mode” or known as “limp safe mode. Limp mode is a security feature, and the mode is a security feature designed to protect the engine or transmission from serious damage. When a vehicle has entered limp mode, the car goes into reduced power operation so you can drive it slowly to a repair shop. Think of it like safe mode in spacecraft systems. When a fault is detected, non-essential functions shut down to protect critical components. In your car, that means limited acceleration, restricted gear shifting, and sometimes capped speed. In simple terms, limp mode is designed to prevent further damage before the underlying problem becomes catastrophic. What Happens When a Vehicle Is in Limp Mode? When your vehicle is in limp mode, several things may occur: Sudden loss of power Poor acceleration The transmission is stuck in one gear A check engine light or other warning light illuminated The engine light is flashing on the dashboard Reduced throttle response Limp mode reduces engine output and may disable certain features like cruise control or even air conditioning in extreme cases. If your car enters limp mode, it often feels like it does not want to go above 30 to 45 mph. Limp mode is a sudden protective reaction. It can feel dramatic, especially during highway driving, but it is there to protect the engine and transmission. What Causes a Car to Go Into Limp Mode? There are several possible causes of limp mode. Modern vehicles rely heavily on sensors, electrical wiring, and a central control unit. If something sends faulty data, limp mode activation can occur. Here are some common causes. Engine-Related Problems If the engine detects serious trouble, limp mode is triggered. Possible engine issues include: Engine knocking Low oil or contaminated motor oil Overheating due to radiator or coolant problems Mass flow sensor failure is affecting airflow and flow measurement Oxygen sensor malfunction Problems in the exhaust system or catalytic converter Exhaust gas recirculation failure A faulty mass flow sensor can send incorrect air mass readings to the computer. That incorrect signal may activate limp mode because the engine cannot safely manage the airflow and fuel mixture. Transmission Problems A transmission issue is another major reason a car goes into limp mode. This is especially true with an automatic transmission. Low transmission fluid, damaged gears, or problems with hydraulic fluid pressure can all trigger limp mode in a car. When limp mode activates, the vehicle may stay stuck in one gear. This protects the transmission mechanical device from further internal damage. Low fluid levels are a major factor. If fluid levels drop too far, there may not be enough lubrication or cooling to protect vital components. Electrical and Sensor Failures Modern cars rely on on-board diagnostics and multiple sensors to monitor speed, throttle, brake input, airflow, and more. Sensors can cause limp mode if they malfunction. Common electrical causes include: Damaged wire connections Failing sensor readings Faulty electric battery Issues with the control unit If the computer cannot detect accurate information, it may trigger limp mode to prevent further damage. A broken speed sensor or throttle position sensor can cause a car to enter limp mode unexpectedly. Fuel and Air System Problems A clogged air filter, restricted exhaust, or fuel delivery issue can limit proper combustion. When the engine struggles to breathe or fuel properly, limp mode may activate. If the catalytic converter becomes blocked due to failed catalysis, exhaust flow slows down and pressure builds. That alone can activate limp mode. In short, limp mode occurs when your vehicle senses something that could damage major components. Warning Signs Your Car May Be in Limp Mode There are clear signs and symptoms that indicate limp mode. Common symptoms include: Sudden loss of power Limited speed Stuck gear in the transmission Flashing check engine light Reduced acceleration Vehicle struggling under load If your car goes into limp mode while driving, you may notice that no matter how hard you press the gas pedal, the throttle does not respond normally. Limp mode can vary by vehicle, but the central theme is always limited performance and protective restrictions. Can You Drive in Limp Mode? Technically, yes, you can drive in limp mode. That is the purpose of the limp home mode. However, you should only drive your car in limp mode long enough to reach a safe place. Find a safe area or move the vehicle to a safe place as soon as possible. Continuing to drive your car in limp mode for extended periods is not recommended. Limp mode is activated to protect the engine or transmission. Driving too far could make repair costs much higher. Never ignore limp mode. If limp mode requires immediate attention, postponing repairs could turn a minor sensor issue into costly internal damage. How to Diagnose and Fix Limp Mode The first step to fix limp mode is proper diagnostics. Guessing rarely works in modern automotive systems. A technician will use an OBD-II scanner to read trouble codes from the on-board diagnostics system. You can use an OBD-II scanner at home, but accurate interpretation of trouble codes often requires an experienced

O2 Sensor vs Catalytic Converter: What’s Causing Your Check Engine Light? Your check engine light pops on, and suddenly, you are wondering what went wrong. Is it the O2 sensor? The catalytic converter? Something worse? If you have ever searched “O2 sensor vs catalytic converter,” you already know the internet can make this confusing fast. Both parts affect your emissions system, both deal with the exhaust, and both can trigger a warning on your dashboard. But they do very different jobs. Let’s walk through what each part does, how they fail, and how to tell whether you are dealing with a simple sensor issue or a costly catalytic converter problem. What Does an O2 Sensor Actually Do? An oxygen sensor sits in your exhaust stream and measures how much oxygen is in the exhaust gas. That information is sent as a voltage signal to your car’s ECU (engine control unit), which adjusts the air–fuel ratio. Simply put, the O2 sensor tells your engine if it is running too rich or too lean. Most vehicles have multiple 02 sensors: An upstream O2 sensor (also called the upstream sensor) before the catalytic converter A downstream O2 sensor after the converter These upstream and downstream oxygen sensors work together to keep your engine running efficiently and monitor the Catalyst. If an oxygen sensor is going bad, you might notice: Rough idling Poor engine performance A drop in fuel economy in automobiles Strong fuel smell CEL on the dashboard An O2 sensor can cause incorrect fuel trim adjustments. When the air–fuel ratio starts to fluctuate, your engine performance can suffer quickly. Over time, sensors go bad. Heat, contamination from burning oil, carbon buildup, or even a simple aging element can cause a sensor to fail. When a sensor goes bad, you may see codes like a P0420 code or other DTC messages through your on-board diagnostics system. What Does a Catalytic Converter Do? The Catalytic converter is completely different. Instead of measuring anything, it performs a chemical reaction called Catalysis. Inside the converter is a catalyst that reduces harmful gases like hydrocarbon emissions into less harmful substances. In plain English, it cleans up what leaves your exhaust system before it reaches the air. When working properly, the catalytic converter reduces emissions and helps your vehicle pass smog testing. It also helps balance pressure and flow through the manifold and exhaust piping. If the converter is bad, symptoms may include: Sluggish acceleration Engine performance problems Rattling noise from underneath the vehicle Rotten egg smell Failed emissions testing A bad catalytic converter can also create back pressure in the exhaust system, restricting flow. In severe cases, a clog inside the unit can hurt the engine. The Classic P0420 Confusion When drivers see a P0420 code on a scanner or code reader, panic often follows. The P0420 code usually means “catalyst efficiency below threshold.” But here is the important part: it does not automatically mean you need to replace the catalytic converter. Sometimes the downstream O2 sensor is bad. Sometimes, a faulty oxygen sensor upstream is giving misleading data. Sometimes there is a vacuum leak, air leaks, misfire, or even an evap monitor issue affecting readings. This is where proper OBD diagnostics matter. Simply installing a new cat without testing can waste serious money. O2 Sensor vs Catalytic Converter: How to Tell the Difference When comparing oxygen sensor or catalytic converter failure, diagnosis is everything. Look at Live Data, Not Just Codes A professional mechanic will use a scan tool and watch live data. We look at the graph pattern of the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. The upstream sensor should switch rapidly The downstream O2 sensor should stay more stable If both sensors show a similar graph, the catalyst may not be doing its job. If the downstream O2 sensor readings are erratic, the sensor itself may be faulty. A single volt difference in the signal can completely change how the ECU interprets data. Check for Other Engine Problems A misfire, faulty O2, leaking gasket, or burning oil can damage the converter over time. A faulty O2 sensor that runs too rich can send unburned fuel into the exhaust. That extra fuel can overheat and damage the converter. Many drivers blame a bad cat when the real issue started months earlier with sensor problems. Evaluate Performance Symptoms If your vehicle runs smoothly and only shows a code, that leans toward a sensor issue. If you notice strong power loss, pressure buildup, or sluggish acceleration, a damaged catalytic converter or a bad cat is more likely. Can You Replace the Converter Without Replacing Sensors? Technically, yes, but it is not always smart. If the oxygen sensor is an original equipment manufacturer OEM and has over 100,000 miles on it, many shops recommend new sensors when installing a new cat. Old sensors may not properly read the new catalyst’s performance. Installing a new catalytic converter without addressing a faulty catalytic sensor setup could mean the code comes right back. What about using a cat cleaner? Products like cat cleaner, Seafoam, or Techron promise to clean deposits. In some mild cases, especially if carbon buildup is the issue, they can help. But if the catalyst material is broken, melted, or physically damaged, nothing in a bottle will fix it. A parts store may suggest additives first, but if the converter is bad or internally clogged, those solutions will not solve it. Real-World Example We recently saw a Toyota with a Toyota AZ engine throwing a P0420. The owner had already replaced the catalytic converter once. The code came back. The issue turned out to be a faulty upstream O2 sensor, causing improper fuel trim readings. The new cat was fine. Proper data analysis from live data streams showed the signal problem clearly. A simple sensor replacement solved it. When to Visit a Professional Mechanic in Covington, IN If you are unsure whether your sensor is bad or if you truly have a catalytic converter problem, guessing usually costs

My Car Is Making A Clicking Noise And Won’t Start! Here’s What’s Causing It And How To Fix It Fast You get in your car, turn the key or push the start button, and instead of hearing the engine fire up, you hear a click. Maybe it is a single click. Maybe it is rapid clicking that makes your heart sink. Either way, your car won’t start. If your car is making a clicking noise and won’t start, you are not alone. This dreaded clicking is one of the most common reasons drivers in Covington, IN, call for help. The good news? In many cases, the problem is straightforward to diagnose and fix. Let’s walk through what that clicking sound usually means, what you can check yourself, and when it is time to let a professional step in. Why Your Car Makes A Clicking Noise When Starting When you try to start your car and hear a clicking noise when starting, what you are actually hearing is electricity trying to do its job. Your automotive battery sends electricity through the ignition system to the starter relay and starter solenoid. That activates the starter motor, which should turn the flywheel and start the engine. When something in that chain is weak or failing, your car makes clicking noises instead of starting. The type of click you hear matters. Single Click vs Rapid Clicking – What’s The Difference? Pay attention to the noise. A single click or a single loud click often points toward a bad starter or a faulty starter. A series of rapid clicks or rapid clicking sounds usually signals a weak or dead battery. A single clicking noise with no engine turnover can also indicate power is not reaching the starter motor correctly. A series of slow clicks can point to extra-low voltage or heavy corrosion at a terminal. That clicking when trying to start is usually your starter solenoid engaging, but the engine cannot turn the starter motor fully. The Most Common Cause: A Weak Or Dead Battery In most cases, the battery is the problem. A weak battery or a dead battery does not have enough power to start the engine. You may try to start the car and hear a clicking noise, but the battery might have enough energy to power the radio or headlamp, which makes it confusing. Here is what happens: Your electric battery sends voltage at the battery to the starter. The starter relay engages. The starter solenoid clicks. But there is not enough battery voltage to turn on the starter motor. You hear a single click or repeated clicking, but the engine does not move. A dead or dying battery is especially common in colder months, after the car has been sitting, or if the alternator isn’t working properly. Signs It Is A Battery Issue If your car clicks but won’t start, and you notice dim headlamp lights or flickering interior lights, that points to a battery issue. You might also hear a rapid clicking noise when starting or even a rapid clicking noise when starting the vehicle with further attempts. Start by checking the basics: Visually inspect your battery for buildup on the battery and corrosion. Look closely at the battery terminals. Corrosion and loose battery terminals can prevent power from reaching the starter. Make sure each terminal is tight and clean. Sometimes, corrosion on car batteries or a dirty terminal is all it takes for your car to click but not start. Should You Try A Jump Start? If you suspect a weak battery, you can try to jump-start the car once. A Jump start (vehicle procedure) can temporarily provide enough electricity to start the engine. If the car starts successfully after the jump start and stays running, the battery may simply need to be fully charged with a battery charger. However, if the car still won’t start later, or dies again soon after, you may need a new battery, or there may be a deeper battery and charging system problem. A dead battery can also point to a failing alternator. What If The Starter Is The Problem? If you turn the key or push the start button and hear a single click every time, but no cranking, it could be a bad starter. The Starter (engine) system includes: Starter motor Starter solenoid Starter relay When these parts wear out, the car makes a single click and nothing else. In some rare cases, tapping the starter lightly while someone else turns the key can temporarily fix the issue. Tapping the starter should only be a short-term test, not a repair. It may confirm a faulty starter or a bad starter, but it will not permanently fix the issue. A starter motor failure means the engine cannot turn the starter motor to spin the flywheel. That is when your car’s start attempt goes nowhere, and you hear a clicking sound each time you try again. If you continue trying to start the car, you may drain the battery completely, creating a second problem. When you suspect the battery or starter, it is best to let a technician properly diagnose it. Could It Be The Alternator? The Alternator (automotive component) plays a big role in keeping your vehicle reliable. The alternator keeps your battery charged while the engine is running. If you have a bad alternator or a failing alternator, the battery may not be charging correctly. You might: Replace the battery with a new battery. Start the car successfully. Then find the car won’t start again days later. That is because the alternator may not be charging the battery fully. An issue with the battery and alternator together often causes repeated breakdowns. If the alternator isn’t working properly, your battery and charging system cannot maintain proper voltage, and you will continue dealing with a car not start. How Professionals Diagnose The Real Problem While some symptoms seem obvious, modern vehicles are complex. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN,

How To Tell What Fluid Your Car Is Leaking Before It Turns Into A Costly Repair You walk out to your driveway and notice a puddle underneath your vehicle. Your first thought? “That can’t be good.” When your car is leaking fluid, it is easy to panic. But not every leak means catastrophic engine damage. Some liquid dripping from your car may be harmless condensation from the air conditioning system. Other times, a small drip can quickly turn into severe engine damage if ignored. If you live in Covington, IN, knowing how to identify fluid leaks early can save you money and prevent damage to your car. Let’s break it down in plain English so you can tell what is actually leaking from your car before it becomes a costly repair. Step One: Look at the Color of the fluid. The fastest way to narrow things down is the fluid color. The color of the fluid tells you a lot about what system it belongs to. Here is a simple guide to common vehicle fluids and what they look like: Brown or black fluid – Usually engine oil Amber fluid – Fresh motor oil Red or reddish fluid – Often transmission fluid or possibly power steering fluid Green, pink, or orange fluid – Coolant or antifreeze Clear fluid – Often water from condensation Blue fluid – Windshield washer fluid If you notice red fluid leaking or a reddish stain, do not ignore it. That typically means it’s transmission fluid or possibly hydraulic fluid from the power steering system. The fluid that’s dark brown and thick usually points to an engine oil leak. Step Two: Notice Where the Leak Is Coming From The location of the leak is just as important as the fluid color. Ask yourself these questions: Is the leak near the front passenger side? Is it leaking near the center of the engine? Is the liquid under your car closer to the rear? Is it beneath the car near a wheel? For example, a coolant leak often shows up at the front of the vehicle near the radiator or a hose in the cooling system. A transmission fluid leak may appear closer to the middle of the car because of the transmission’s (mechanical device) placement. If oil is leaking from the lower part of the engine, it could be coming from the oil pan, oil filter, or even a worn gasket or seal around the rocker cover. Understanding where the leak is coming from gives a mechanic a head start on diagnosing the issue. Common Types of Car Fluid Leaks Let’s walk through the most common causes of a car fluid leak and what they typically mean. Engine Oil Leak An engine oil leak is one of the most common issues we see. Engine oil keeps internal Engine parts lubricated and reduces friction and heat. Fresh oil is amber. As it ages, it turns brown or black. If your car is leaking oil and you see brown or black spots beneath your car, it is likely motor oil. You might also smell burning oil if it drips onto hot exhaust system parts. This can create smoke and a distinct odor. Common causes include: A worn oil pan gasket A failing seal A loose oil filter A cracked valve cover or rocker cover If oil is leaking and low fluid levels are ignored, it can cause severe engine damage. If you want a deeper explanation, check out this guide on what it means when your car is leaking oil. Coolant Leak Coolant, also known as antifreeze or radiator fluid, is usually green, pink, or orange. It plays a vital role in the cooling system and helps your engine avoid overheating conditions. If you see leaking coolant, especially near the radiator or under the front passenger side, you may have a coolant leak. You might also notice a sweet odor or steam coming from beneath the hood. In some cases, people think fluid leaks are rare. They are not. Hoses weaken, a radiator can crack, or corrosion can affect a heater core. If your vehicle is overheating or you suspect leaking coolant, check coolant levels in the reservoir. A failing cooling system can quickly escalate into major damage to your car. You can also learn more about why your car smells like coolant when the heater is on. Transmission Fluid Leak Transmission fluid keeps gears lubricated, whether you drive an automatic transmission or a manual transmission with a clutch system. Fresh transmission fluid is typically bright red. Over time, it becomes darker, sometimes reddish brown. If you see red fluid or leaking red fluid around the middle of the vehicle, it could be a transmission fluid leak. If it’s transmission fluid, prolonged leaking can cause slipping gears, delayed shifting, and internal transmission damage. Even a small trans fluid drip can get worse quickly. If you suspect a transmission fluid leak, it is worth having it inspected. The team at Newnum and Sons Garage offers expert transmission repair for both automatic transmission and manual transmission systems. Brake Fluid Leak Brake fluid is typically clear to light amber and feels slippery. It is a type of hydraulic fluid used in the brake system. A brake fluid leak is serious. If you notice fluid leaking near a wheel or along brake lines, especially near the master cylinder or each wheel, do not wait. Signs and symptoms can include: A soft brake pedal Increased stopping distance Warning lights on the dashboard Your safety depends on your Brake system working properly. Any suspected brake fluid leak needs immediate attention before driving in traffic. Power Steering Fluid Leak Power steering fluid is often red or pink and supports the Power steering system, sometimes using a rack and pinion steering rack. A power steering fluid leak may show up near the front of the vehicle. You might also hear noise when turning the steering wheel. If steering feels stiff or you hear whining from a pump,

Why Does My Car Stall When I Stop? Common Causes and Quick Fixes If your car shuts off or stalls when you come to a stop, you’re not alone. Sudden stalling at idle can leave even experienced drivers confused and frustrated, especially when it happens unexpectedly at a stoplight or intersection. Understanding the reasons behind your car stalling is the first step toward a smooth, reliable drive. At Newnum and Sons Garage, we’ve seen just about every cause of the stalling problem in Covington, IN. In this guide, we’ll break down the most common issues causing your vehicle to stall when stopped, what you should look out for, and how to fix them. What Does It Mean When Your Car Stalls at Idle? When your vehicle stalls at idle, it means the engine shuts off or dies while the car is running but not moving. This usually happens when you take your foot off the gas and let the car idle, such as when you’re stopped in traffic or at a light. Stalling at idle can be a sign that your engine can’t maintain its idle speed or is struggling with one or more essential systems that keep it running. The Most Common Cause of Engine Stalling When Stopped One common cause of engine stalling is an issue with the air-fuel mixture, which is critical for keeping the combustion engine running smoothly. If there’s a problem with how much fuel or air is getting into the system, the engine may not be able to stay running at idle. Other issues might include problems with: Sensors, such as the mass airflow sensor or throttle position sensor A faulty idle air control valve A weak ignition system, such as worn spark plugs or a faulty ignition coil Fuel delivery problems, such as a clogged fuel filter or a dying fuel pump Let’s look at each of these to understand how they can cause the engine to stall at idle. Faulty Idle Air Control Valve The idle air control valve (IAC valve) manages airflow when you’re not pressing the accelerator. When this part gets dirty or fails, it can’t regulate the amount of air entering the engine, causing the car to stall the engine, especially when idling. Signs of IAC issues: The car stalls at idle or when stopping Rough idling The check engine light might come on This valve can usually be cleaned, but if it’s too worn, it may need replacing. Dirty or Malfunctioning Throttle Body The throttle body regulates how much air enters the engine. If it’s dirty or sticky with carbon buildup, the throttle can’t open properly. This restricts airflow and causes a lack of power while idle, leading to the engine stalling. Symptoms include: Unstable idling speed Engine stalling during stops Noticeable lag in acceleration Mass Airflow Sensor or Throttle Position Sensor Problems Your engine adjusts fuel delivery based on data it receives from various sensors. Two major players here are: Mass airflow sensor (measures the air coming in) Throttle position sensor (tells the engine control unit how open or closed the throttle is) When either sensor sends incorrect signals to the engine control unit (ECU), it can cause the engine to run too rich or too lean, leading to misfires and stalling. Warning Signs: The engine light may come on The engine hesitates or stalls during stops Poor fuel efficiency and power Fuel System Problems: Fuel Filter, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump If your fuel system can’t deliver the right amount of gas to the engine, it can lead to stalling. Components in this system include: Fuel pump – if it’s weak or failing, your car may struggle to get fuel when the load changes, like when idling Fuel filter – a clogged filter makes it harder for fuel to reach the injector Fuel injectors – if dirty or worn, they spray less fuel or spray unevenly Common symptoms: The car sputters, then stalls Hard starts or no start Reduced power when accelerating If your vehicle is experiencing these symptoms, it may be time for a deep fuel system inspection. Ignition System Faults: Spark Plugs or Ignition Coil Your ignition system is responsible for igniting the air-fuel mixture in your engine. If your spark plugs are fouled or your ignition coil is faulty, the engine can misfire or stall, especially when the engine warms up, and the electrical interference increases. How to spot this: Engine stutters or misfires You notice a decrease in fuel efficiency The engine shuts down unexpectedly and is hard to restart Vacuum Leaks in the Intake System The intake manifold depends on a sealed system. A vacuum leak allows unmetered air to enter the engine, which disrupts the air–fuel ratio and can stall the engine. Symptoms of a vacuum leak: Noises like hissing or whistling Unstable RPM when idling The check engine light may illuminate Leaks can form around gaskets, hoses, or connectors, and should be diagnosed by an experienced auto mechanic. Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Malfunction Your exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system recycles a fraction of exhaust to reduce emissions. A stuck open EGR valve can let exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber at the wrong time, causing the engine to sputter or stall. Look for: Rough engine idle Stalls when the car turns or slows Engine performance drops A properly working valve helps regulate temperature and optimize engine performance. When it sticks, you risk engine stalling. Engine Control Issues and Electrical Faults Sometimes, it’s not mechanical at all. Modern cars rely on the engine control unit (ECU) to process input from all over the vehicle. If the ECU is acting up due to a voltage issue or an electronic malfunction, your engine could simply shut down. Possible causes: Dying alternator Battery not holding a charge Problematic wiring or position sensor connections Electrical tests and on-board diagnostics can pinpoint these issues when the check engine light is on. Other Problems That Might Cause Stalling Beyond the sensors and air–fuel issues, other

If My Car Is Leaking Oil, What Does That Mean? Find Out What to Do Fast You pull out of your driveway, and there it is – a dark puddle under your car. It’s enough to make any car owner wonder: “If my car is leaking oil, what does that mean?” Let’s break it down so you can figure out what’s going on and take the right steps. In Covington, IN, where we depend on our vehicles for everything from commuting to hauling, a leak shouldn’t be ignored. Here’s what you need to know if your vehicle is leaking oil or another fluid. What Causes an Oil Leak? Oil leaks are common but can lead to major problems if left untreated. The most frequent causes of oil leaks include: Worn or damaged gaskets: These rubber or silicone seals can wear down over time. A worn gasket or oil gasket may create a gap, making it easy for oil to escape. Loose or damaged oil pan: The oil pan sits at the bottom of your engine and holds your engine oil. If it’s cracked or hit by road debris, it can lead to leakage. Faulty oil filter or oil drain plug: After your last oil change, if the oil filter wasn’t secured tightly or the drain plug wasn’t sealed properly, a leak can start. Valve cover gasket issues: The valve cover gasket seals the top part of the engine. A leak here often shows up on top of the engine and may drip down over time. Blown head gasket: A more serious problem. It can create an engine oil leak or even allow coolant and oil to mix. These common causes of oil leaks can vary in severity, from a small oil leak that leaves a few spots to a major oil leak that rapidly drains your oil levels. Signs of an Oil Leak Not sure if what you’re seeing qualifies as a leak? There are common signs to watch for: A brown or black puddle under your car, especially after it’s been parked for a few hours. A burning oil smell while driving or after turning off the engine. Smoke is coming from the exhaust or under the hood. Low oil warning light or dropping oil pressure. Visibly leaking oil is seen around engine components. If you spot any of these, it’s time to take a closer look. Car Is Leaking Fluid? Here’s How to Identify It Not all leaks come from oil. Here’s how to identify what kind of leaking fluid you’re dealing with: Fluid Type Color Smell Likely Source   Motor Oil Brown/Black Burnt or oily Oil pan, gasket, seal Transmission Fluid Red Sweet or chemical Transmission system Coolant Green/Orange Sweet Radiator or hoses Brake Fluid Clear/Yellow Slightly fishy Brake lines or reservoir Power Steering Fluid Red/Amber Burnt oil-like Steering system parts Water (condensation) Clear No smell Air conditioning system If your car is leaking fluid, use this table to find the leak source. A clear puddle under your vehicle could be harmless, like AC condensation, while red fluid leaking might suggest it’s transmission fluid or power steering fluid. Why Oil Is Essential to Your Engine Oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine. It lubricates engine parts, controls temperature, and reduces wear. Letting your engine oil leak puts your vehicle at risk of overheating, friction damage, and even complete engine damage. When your car is leaking oil, low oil levels can cause: Poor engine performance Increased wear and tear Higher chances of costly engine damage If you recently had a regular oil change and it started leaking afterward, the culprit might be a leaking oil filter, drain plug, or even a loose oil pan gasket. Common Locations Where Oil Leaks Can Happen Leaks most commonly occur in a few specific parts of your vehicle: Oil pan and oil pan gasket Valve cover gasket Head gasket Oil filter area Drain plug If the leak is coming from one of these areas, you may notice a puddle under your vehicle right after driving. A quick look under the hood or beneath the car can help you guess the location of the leak. What to Do if Your Car Is Leaking Oil Once you’ve spotted leaking from your car, here’s what you should do: Check your oil level with the dipstick. If it’s low, add clean oil of the same kind used in your regular oil change. Try to identify the kind of oil or fluid and the location of the leak. Avoid driving long distances if a major oil leak is suspected. Bring your vehicle to a professional mechanic in Covington, IN. Ignoring an oil leak can cause more problems, including safety risks and expensive repairs. How to Prevent Oil Leaks There are a few simple things you can do to help prevent oil leaks in the future: Get regular oil changes to keep seals and components in good condition. Make sure the oil drain plug and oil filter are always installed properly. Watch for early signs of a gasket leak or a damaged oil pan. Clean your engine occasionally to spot leaks early. Avoid road debris that could damage your wet sump or oil pan. Prevention goes a long way in catching issues before they turn serious. When to Call a Mechanic Some leaks can be minor and easy to handle. But if: The leaking oil leaves a large puddle Your oil light comes on after your last oil change You see smoke, smell burning oil, or a pool expands quickly …it’s best to call a trusted auto mechanic. At Newnum and Sons Garage, our team is here to help with accurate diagnostics, honest advice, and complete auto repair and maintenance services in Covington, IN. Conclusion: Don’t Let Small Leaks Turn Into Big Problems So, if you’re asking, “If my car is leaking oil, what does that mean?” – the bottom line is: it’s a warning sign. Whether it’s a faulty gasket, a loose drain plug, or

Stop Car Shaking at High Speeds: Smart Fixes for a Smooth Ride Does your car feel unsteady or produce strange vibrations when you’re cruising at 55 mph or pushing closer to 60 mph on the highway? If your car is shaking at high speeds, you’re not alone, and you’re not imagining things. What you’re feeling is a warning sign. Sometimes it’s subtle, like a light tremble in the steering wheel, or it might feel like a more intense, shaky rumble that affects your entire driving experience. Either way, car vibrations at speed should never be ignored. Let’s go over the common reasons your car shakes and how to fix the problem before it gets worse. Why Your Car Shakes at High Speeds: Common Causes to Know Your car can start to vibrate for several reasons, and some are more serious than others. Below are the most common causes of car vibrations at highway speeds. Unbalanced Tires and Tire Wear Unbalanced tires are one of the leading reasons your car shakes as you drive faster. When your tires aren’t evenly distributing weight, the imbalance grows with speed. That imbalance can cause the car to vibrate, especially above 55 mph. Even normal driving can cause tire wear over time, but uneven wear often signals a bigger issue like misaligned wheels or worn suspension components. Here’s what to check: Inspect for uneven tire wear Confirm you’ve had a recent tire rotation Get your wheels balanced If your tires are causing the problem, proper tire balance is essential to restore a smooth ride. Suspension Issues and Worn Components Your car’s suspension system is designed to keep the vehicle stable and absorb bumps from the road. If the suspension is worn or damaged, you might notice your car vibrating at high speeds. Possible suspension-related culprits include: Worn-out shocks or struts Loose tie rods or ball joints General suspension wear from age or hitting a pothole Any of these can cause your steering wheel to shake or amplify the car’s vibration at higher speeds. Brake Problems (Brake Rotors and Pads) If the vibration worsens when you press the brake pedal, don’t overlook your brake system. Warped brake rotors or worn-out brake pads can cause strong shaking sensations. Look for these signs: The steering wheel shakes only when braking The brake pedal feels pulsy or uneven Vibrations increase during gradual brake pressure Damaged disc brake components can also warp over time, especially with frequent hard braking or overheating. So if your car starts shaking when you brake, it’s time to have those brake rotors checked. Axle Damage or Driveshaft Trouble The axle and driveshaft are key parts of your car’s power delivery system. If they’re bent, damaged, or imbalanced, they can cause major issues at higher speeds. What to look for: Strong underneath vibration that worsens with acceleration Shaking at both low and high speeds Unusual clunking sounds when turning This isn’t the most common cause, but it’s serious. An issue with the drive shaft or axle needs quick attention from a qualified mechanic. Misaligned or Damaged CV Joints Constant-velocity joints, or CV joints, help your wheels move while turning and accelerating. If they become worn or cracked (especially the boots that protect them), your car’s ride will feel anything but smooth. Symptoms can include: Clicking or popping noises during turns Vibrates at high speeds or during acceleration Uneven wear on front tires This is another issue that calls for immediate inspection, as a failed CV joint can drag down more than just your handling. Other Root Causes That Cause Your Car to Vibrate Sometimes, it’s not as obvious as a tire or brake issue. Here are other, less obvious, but still important, reasons your car vibrates: Engine problems: Engine misfires or faulty spark plugs can cause the car to vibrate noticeably. If your engine performance is struggling or your check engine light is on, get it evaluated fast. Wheel bearings: A worn wheel bearing can throw off your balance and lead to vibrations that worsen with speed. Transmission problems: Issues inside your vehicle’s transmission can interfere with torque delivery and cause vibration under certain conditions. Balance issue inside the engine or landing gear system: The complexities of engine operation mean that even small internal imbalances can lead to larger problems over time. How to Diagnose the Issue: When to Call the Mechanic When your car starts shaking at high speeds, it’s a message from your vehicle that shouldn’t be ignored. Here’s how to start pinpointing the issue: Pay attention: Identify exactly when the shaking happens. Is it during acceleration, braking, or steady cruising at highway speeds? Check your tires: Look at the tread for uneven patterns. Does one tire seem more worn? Is there visible damage? Notice the feel: Does the steering wheel shake? Or is the whole body of the car vibrating? Listen for sounds: Clunks, rattles, or hums can all point toward internal problems. Don’t delay: The longer you wait, the more unsafe driving conditions become – and the more expensive the fix could be. The best move? Schedule a professional inspection with a trusted mechanic. They can inspect anything from tire issues to driveshaft damage and help you fix the problem before it escalates. At Newnum and Sons Garage, our expert mechanics are always ready to help Covington drivers get back on the road safely. From subtle car vibrations to serious steering concerns, we offer a full range of auto repair and maintenance services. Prevent Future Vibrations: Smart Car Care Tips Want to stop the shaking before it starts? Here are a few smart habits to help protect your vehicle from unwanted stress: Keep tires properly inflated (watch your air pressure regularly) Don’t skip regular tire rotation Inspect brakes annually, especially brake pads and rotors Replace worn suspension components before they worsen Address strange noises or shaky sensations quickly Even a small, unbalanced, or worn part can cause the car to vibrate more noticeably at higher speeds. Final Thoughts: Keep Your Ride

Car Won’t Start But Battery Is Good? Here’s What Could Be Wrong It’s one of the most frustrating things that can happen: you slide into your vehicle, turn the key or press the start button, and… nothing. But here’s the twist: you know your car battery is good. You’re left standing there thinking: “Why won’t my car start if the battery is fine?” Don’t worry, you’re not alone. At Newnum and Sons Garage, we’ve helped countless drivers around Covington, IN figure out starting problems just like this. If your car won’t start but the battery is good, let’s walk through what might be behind it. First, Double-Check the Battery and Connections Even when you know the battery is good, it’s worth doing a quick review of the basics. Signs Your Battery Is Actually Fine A good battery should deliver enough voltage and amperage (amp) to crank the engine. Try these quick checks: Dashboard lights and headlamps come on strong You hear a click or rapid clicking when you turn the key You’ve recently installed a brand new battery A multimeter shows a battery voltage of around 12.6 volts at rest If all those look solid, your issue might lie elsewhere, but don’t rule out the battery connections just yet. Check for Loose or Corroded Battery Terminals Just because the battery is good doesn’t mean power is actually flowing. A weak connection from corroded battery terminals, loose battery clamps, or worn battery cables can quietly block electricity from reaching the starter motor. Use these tips: Inspect the battery post and each terminal for any white or greenish corrosion Wiggle the cables; any looseness can interrupt the connection Tighten down clamps or clean corrosion to ensure proper electricity flow Once your wiring from the battery to the starter is confirmed, you can move on to the more complex causes. The Starter Could Be the Culprit If power is flowing but your engine won’t crank, your starter motor might be in trouble. What Is a Bad Starter? The starter is a small electric motor that cranks the engine when you turn the ignition. If it fails or the starter solenoid attached to it malfunctions, the car won’t crank or start. Signs of a faulty starter: A loud click, but no cranking sound when you turnthe  key Nothing happens at all (no noise) Smoke or a burning smell near the engine You’ve already ruled out a dead battery Over time, parts wear out, and you may need a new starter. A trusted technician can confirm this with a starter test. Ignition System Concerns to Watch For The ignition system sends the signal to power your starter motor and ignite the fuel. If that chain gets broken, the engine never gets the message to go. Ignition Switch Failure A faulty ignition switch can prevent power from reaching the starter motor, even when the battery is good. You might see full dashboard lights and working headlights, but the engine still won’t turn over. Look out for: The engine doesn’t respond when you turn the key Power cuts randomly while driving (long-term warning) Only accessories (radio, lights) turn on Starter Relay or Fuse Problems Inside the fuse box under the hood lies the starter relay, which can go bad. A malfunctioning relay or blown fuse cuts off power before it even reaches the starter motor. It’s quick to check and replace, and a simple fix if you’re lucky. Don’t Overlook the Fuel System Even if your engine cranks, a bad fuel pump can keep it from firing up. The same goes for a clogged fuel line or a broken fuel system sensor. Signs to Watch For: The engine cranks, but doesn’t start No sound or hum from the fuel pump when you try to start The engine starts with a jump start, but then stalls soon after When the fuel pump fails, gas doesn’t reach the engine. It might be due to a blown fuse or a pump that’s simply worn out. All About the Alternator The alternator keeps the automotive battery charged while the engine runs. If it fails, you may end up with a seemingly good battery that can’t actually power up your next drive. Bad Alternator Symptoms: Lights dimming randomly Electrical accessories behaving strangely Battery voltage drops after the engine runs for a few minutes You’ve had to jump-start the vehicle more than once recently While trying to start your car, if it only works with a jumper or always needs a jump start, suspect a bad alternator. It can even damage a new battery if left unchecked. Other Common Reasons Your Car Won’t Start but Battery Is Good Sometimes, it’s not the big components, it’s the little issues that prevent your car start. Top 5 Reasons Your Car Won’t Start Even if the Battery Is Good Faulty starter or starter motor The ignition switch is bad Bad fuel pump or fuel injector issue Corroded battery terminals or loose cables Alternator problems are causing hidden electrical issues Each of these can stop your vehicle or truck dead in its tracks, electrically or mechanically, even while everything seems “fine” on the surface. Diagnosing the Problem: What to Do Next Here’s what we recommend if you have trouble starting your car but the battery is good: Try a jump start even if you believe the battery is solid, this can help narrow down if you’re dealing with a weak battery or something else. Use a multimeter to check battery voltage and get a better read on actual performance. Listen closely, is it rapid clicking, silence, or a full crank? Test the starter, ignition switch, and fuel pump with a technician’s help If you’re near Covington, IN, and doing your own troubleshooting hasn’t worked, our team at Newnum and Sons Garage can perform full diagnostics on the battery and starter, fuel system, or electrical signals between your switch and starter motor. We’ll help you track down why your car won’t start and get it back on

Coolant Smell in Car When Heater Is On? Find Out What’s Really Going On If you’re noticing a coolant smell in your car when the heater is on, you’re probably a little confused, and maybe even a bit concerned. That odd, sweet (yet unpleasant) odor wafting through your vents isn’t supposed to be there.  The smell of coolant inside your car can point to a problem you don’t want to ignore, especially during colder months when you rely on your heating system. Let’s break down what’s going on, why it matters, and what you can do about it. Why You Might Smell Coolant When You Turn on the Heat When you turn on the heater and smell coolant, it’s usually a sign that something is wrong with your car’s heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. The smell is often strongest near the heating vents or under the dashboard. Here’s why: Your heater uses a component called the heater core. It’s a small radiator-like device that allows hot engine coolant to flow through it. As air passes over the heater core, it warms up and blows into your cabin. If the heater core is leaking, that warm air can carry the smell of antifreeze right into your car. Common Causes of a Coolant Smell Inside Your Car Several components work together to manage temperature and flow within your vehicle’s cooling system. If one fails, it can lead to a coolant leak, which often results in that familiar smell. Leaking Heater Core Perhaps the most common reason for smelling coolant inside your car is a leaking heater core. This component sits behind your dash, sometimes near the passenger side footwell. If it cracks or corrodes: You might notice a wet spot on the carpet under your dashboard. The smell of antifreeze might get stronger when you turn the heat on. In colder weather, your windshield might fog up with a greasy film. A leaking heater core is more than just inconvenient. If it continues to leak, it can lead to coolant loss, cabin damage, and even overheat the engine. Antifreeze Leak Somewhere in the HVAC System If it’s not the heater core, the coolant smell when the heat is on could be due to an antifreeze leak anywhere within the hvac system. Heater hoses, gaskets, or connections running through the firewall into the engine compartment can drip coolant: Look for visible leaks or discoloration around the hose connections. Damp patches or puddles near the heater box can signal trouble. Cabin air picks up the smell and spreads it throughout the entire dash. Leaky Radiator or Radiator Cap A leak in the radiator, especially under pressure, can allow coolant vapor to fill the engine bay and drift into the cabin via the vents when your heater is running. A damaged radiator cap may not properly seal, allowing coolant to escape. Always replace the cap with the correct spec if it shows wear. You should routinely check the radiator and surrounding areas for leakage. Damaged or Loose Hoses Hoses carry coolant throughout the system. Even a small leak around the hose can become noticeable when the hot engine heats the coolant to the point where vapors escape into the air. These vapors can enter through the air conditioning intake or defroster. If you’re able to smell coolant only during heat operation, a hose under the dash could be the cause. Check for signs of drying puddles or stains under the car after it’s parked. Blown Head Gasket A rare but serious issue could be a blown head gasket. If this happens: Coolant may enter combustion chambers or leak externally. The smell may intensify around the hot engine parts. You’ll possibly notice white smoke from the exhaust or overheating. A faulty gasket affects both your cooling system and engine performance. If you suspect this issue, it’s time to talk to a local mechanic immediately. How to Diagnose If It’s Really a Coolant Leak You may think you’re just smelling something strange, but if it smells like coolant, it’s worth getting a clearer picture. Here’s how to start your own quick assessment before calling in the pros: Start with a Pressure Test Ask your repair shop for a pressure test. This simulates engine conditions, making it easier to locate hidden leaks. Check the Coolant Reservoir Pop the hood and inspect the coolant reservoir. If it’s low, discolored, or the level drops over time, you may have a leak. Look for Puddles or Spots Scan the ground under your dashboard, under the engine bay, or below the car after it’s parked. Even a small puddle can signal a leaking coolant situation. If it’s green, pink, or orange and smells sweet, you’re likely dealing with antifreeze. Watch the Windshield and Dash Greasy film on the windshield, a sticky dashboard, or fogging windows are telltale signs of a heater core issue. What If It’s Not the Heater Core? Sometimes, that faint smell might not be from a leak at all. Here are a few possibilities: Spilled windshield washer fluid could resemble coolant smells. A bad heater blend door or valve may result in unusual airflow, making a smell more noticeable. Have you recently added washer fluid or coolant? A splash in the engine bay could linger. If you can still smell coolant but don’t spot a leak, it’s probably not the heater core – but something else might be wrong. Keep investigating or talk to a qualified technician. Can You Drive with a Coolant Leak? Temporarily? Maybe. But here’s the thing: A coolant leak can lead to an overheating situation. An overheating engine can warp your head or blow a head gasket entirely. Even a temporary solution like a stop leak isn’t a long-term fix, especially around sensitive components like the heater core. Ignoring or delaying can cause expensive and sometimes irreversible damage. What You Should Do Next If you smell coolant regularly when using your heating vents, now’s the time to check under the hood or

Why Your Check Engine Light Comes On and Off and What to Do Next If your check engine light comes on and off without warning, it’s natural to feel confused or even a little anxious. You’re not alone. Many drivers in Covington, IN, have experienced the same situation. One moment, your dashboard is clear, and the next, that little amber light appears, only to disappear again as if nothing happened. You’re probably wondering: Is it safe to keep driving? Do I need to rush to a mechanic? Could it be something simple? This guide will help you understand what that check engine light means, highlight some of the common causes, and explain what steps to take if the light comes on your dashboard and then turns off again. Let’s break it all down into clear, helpful pieces, right here in Covington. What Does the Check Engine Light Mean? The check engine light is a part of your vehicle’s onboard diagnostics system. When your car’s computer senses something unusual in the engine or emissions system, it turns on this dashboard warning light. But what exactly does the light mean? Serves as a general warning: It tells you the computer detected something wrong with your car. Doesn’t point to one issue: It could be anything from a loose gas cap to a failing catalytic converter. Stores trouble codes: Your vehicle’s computer generates error codes that a mechanic or scanner can read. In short, while the light may seem vague, it shouldn’t be ignored. Even if it turns off, that doesn’t mean the problem has disappeared; it may have just reset temporarily. Common Reasons the Check Engine Light Comes On and Off There are several issues that could cause your check engine light to come on and go off. The key is recognizing whether it’s a one-time glitch or the start of an ongoing problem. Here are some common causes: Loose Gas Cap This is one of the most common reasons your check engine light appears. A loose gas cap allows fuel vapors to escape, which affects your vehicle’s emissions control. It can trigger the check engine light even though it’s a minor issue. Always make sure your gas cap is sealed tightly after filling up. If the gas cap is the issue, the light may turn off after a few drive cycles. Failing Oxygen Sensor The oxygen sensor measures how much oxygen is in your car’s exhaust gases. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause poor fuel efficiency and poor engine performance. It also affects the air–fuel ratio, which increases harmful vehicle emissions. Replacing it early can help avoid more expensive repairs down the line. Catalytic Converter Troubles The catalytic converter plays a key role in reducing emission-related pollutants. A failing catalytic converter can lead to engine misfire, loss of power, and increased exhaust gas. If left unchecked, it could cause the check engine light to stay on permanently. Replacing it is costly, so catching this early through diagnostics can save you money. Problems with the Ignition System Issues with your ignition coil, spark plug, or ignition wiring can: Causes a misfire, poor engine performance, or stalling. Increase harmful emissions and damage the catalytic converter. Trigger the light intermittently, depending on when the misfire happens. Faulty Sensors Modern vehicles rely heavily on sensors to maintain proper engine performance: The mass airflow sensor controls the amount of air entering the engine to determine how much fuel is needed. Problems with this or other engine sensors can confuse the engine control unit and trigger the dashboard light. Even a glitch in the signal can make the check engine light blink or turn off on its own. Transmission or Exhaust Issues Problems in your transmission system or exhaust could also trigger the light. Leaks in the exhaust system affect engine performance and raise emission levels. A poorly performing transmission can cause symptoms that include fluctuating RPMs or weird shifting. Both can make the check engine light come on and go off, depending on when the system glitches. What Would My Check Engine Light Mean if It Comes and Goes? A check engine light that comes and goes is often a sign of an intermittent issue. While it might seem minor, it can also be a warning sign of a deeper, developing problem. These are some behaviors to keep in mind: Light flickers or turns off after a few minutes: This could be a minor issue or sensor error. Light illuminates only during specific weather (e.g., rain): Moisture or humidity can affect wires or sensors. The light goes off, then comes back on after a few days: A recurring issue is likely getting worse. Don’t brush it off. Document when the light appears, under what conditions, and how long it lasts. This will help the mechanic narrow down the cause. Diagnosing the Check Engine Light: What You Should Do To diagnose and fix the problem, you’ll need to read your car’s trouble codes. Here’s how: Step 1: Use a Code Scanner You can visit a parts store or an auto mechanic who can plug in a scanner to your vehicle’s onboard diagnostics system. The scanner reads error codes stored in your car’s computer. Some scanners even provide a basic explanation of what’s wrong. Step 2: Interpret and Verify Once you have the error codes, a mechanic can: Cross-check the data with symptoms (like hesitation, noises, smoke). Inspect related components (fuel system, valves, sensors, ignition). Step 3: Perform a Drive Cycle Sometimes the issue only shows up after the car goes through a full drive cycle (cold start to full warm-up and back to cold). The mechanic may test the car over a few cycles to confirm the fix. When the Check Engine Light Came On but Then Turned Off If your check engine light came on and then turned off shortly afterward, you might think you’re in the clear, but it’s not always that simple. This behavior often suggests: The engine control unit detected a temporary