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10 Rough Idle Causes and How to Fix Each One Fast Most vehicles idle between 600 and 1,000 RPM when sitting still. When your car starts shaking, the RPM needle bounces, or the engine feels like it might stall, something is clearly off. A rough idle is one of the most common engine problems drivers deal with, and the good news is that most causes are fixable once you know what you are looking for. Here is a breakdown of the most common causes of rough idle and what you can do about each one. What Does a Rough Idle Actually Mean? When a car engine is running smoothly, you barely notice it. The internal combustion engine fires in a steady rhythm, the air-fuel mixture burns cleanly in each cylinder, and the car sits quietly at a low RPM. When something disrupts that rhythm – whether it is too much air, not enough fuel, or a misfiring engine – the engine idle becomes uneven. You might feel a vibration through the seat, notice the RPM dipping too low, or watch the check engine light flick on. Common Causes of Rough Idle and How to Fix Them Worn or Fouled Spark Plugs A bad spark plug is one of the most common causes drivers overlook. The spark plug ignites the air-fuel mixture inside the cylinder, and when it is worn, cracked, or covered in carbon buildup, it misfires. A misfire means one or more cylinders are not firing properly, which causes the engine to idle roughly and shake. Fix: Replace spark plugs according to your vehicle’s maintenance schedule. Most plugs last 30,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on the type. If you are noticing ignition problems alongside a rough idle, start here. Vacuum Leak The intake manifold and various hoses throughout the engine bay carry air and fuel into the combustion chamber. When a gasket cracks or a hose comes loose, a vacuum leak lets unmetered air sneak into the engine. This throws off the air-fuel ratio and causes the engine to idle roughly at low RPM. Fix: Listen for a hissing sound near the intake manifold or throttle area. A vacuum leak is best diagnosed with a smoke test or by spraying carburetor cleaner near suspected spots while the engine is running. Dirty or Clogged Fuel Injectors Fuel injectors spray a precise amount of fuel into each cylinder. Over time, dirty fuel or carbon buildup can clog them, disrupting the air-fuel mixture and causing a misfire. When one or more fuel injectors are not flowing correctly, it becomes almost unavoidable for the engine to run rough. Fix: Use a quality fuel injector cleaner or have the injectors professionally cleaned or replaced. This is especially important if you notice the issue gets worse on cold starts. Dirty Throttle Body The throttle body controls how much air enters the engine. When carbon and grime coat the inside of the throttle body, it restricts airflow and messes with the engine’s idle speed. A dirty throttle body is a surprisingly common cause of rough idle, especially on higher-mileage vehicles. Fix: Cleaning the throttle body with a dedicated cleaner is a straightforward fix. It is part of routine tune-up service and can restore smooth idling quickly. Faulty Mass Airflow Sensor The mass airflow sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine and sends that data to the engine control unit. If this sensor is dirty or failing, the engine receives incorrect airflow readings and cannot properly calculate the right amount of fuel to inject. The result is an unstable or low RPM idle. Fix: Cleaning the mass airflow sensor with sensor-safe spray often resolves the issue. If the sensor has failed entirely, replacement is necessary. A check engine light is a common warning sign here. Bad Oxygen Sensor The oxygen sensor monitors exhaust gases leaving the engine and helps balance the air-fuel mixture in real time. A failed sensor sends incorrect readings, causing the engine to run either too rich or too lean. Either condition can cause the engine to idle roughly, reduce fuel economy, and trigger the check engine light. Fix: Check for diagnostic trouble codes using a scan tool. If the oxygen sensor is the culprit, replacing it is a straightforward repair that restores proper engine performance. Restricted Fuel Filter or Weak Fuel Pump A restricted fuel filter or failing fuel pump reduces fuel pressure in the fuel delivery system, starving the engine of the fuel it needs to idle smoothly. When fuel delivery is inconsistent, the engine hesitates, stumbles, or may even stall at idle. Fix: Replace the fuel filter on schedule and have the fuel pump tested if you suspect weak fuel pressure. Neglecting this can cause the engine to stall and lead to more serious engine damage over time. If your car dies at a stop, learn more about why your car stalls when stopping. EGR Valve Problems The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve recirculates a portion of exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions. When the valve gets clogged or sticks open, it disrupts combustion and causes a rough idle, especially at low RPM. This is a common issue in both gasoline and diesel vehicles. Fix: Inspect and clean the EGR valve, or replace it if it is failing. A check engine light code related to the EGR system will help confirm the diagnosis. Low Compression Low compression in one or more cylinders is a more serious cause of a rough idle. It can result from worn piston rings, a damaged valve, or a blown head gasket. When a cylinder cannot build enough compression, combustion is incomplete, and the engine shakes noticeably at idle. Fix: A compression test will confirm low compression. Depending on the cause, repairs can range from a valve adjustment to a full engine rebuild. This is a job for a professional. If you are dealing with these kinds of engine problems, check out the professional engine repair services at Newnum and

Solid Check Engine Light vs Flashing: What Each Signal Really Means for Your Car That little amber glow on your dashboard can trigger a wave of panic – or, for some drivers, a shrug and a “I’ll deal with it later.” But here is the truth: not all check engine lights are created equal. The difference between a flashing and a solid signal matters more than most people think Let us break it all down in plain language so you know exactly what your car is trying to tell you. What Is the Check Engine Light, Anyway? The check engine light is part of your car’s onboard diagnostics system, also known as OBD-II. When something goes wrong with your engine, exhaust system, sensors, or other key components, the car’s diagnostic system detects it and stores diagnostic trouble codes. The light on the dashboard is simply the vehicle’s way of saying, “Hey, something needs attention.” The challenge is that one symbol covers a huge range of problems – from something as minor as a loose gas cap to something as serious as engine damage. That is why the way the light behaves matters so much. Understanding the Difference: Solid vs Flashing Understanding check engine light behavior starts with one key difference: is the light steady, or is it blinking? What a Solid Check Engine Light Means A steady check engine light illuminates when the car’s computer has detected an issue that needs attention, but is not necessarily causing immediate harm to your vehicle right now. The solid check engine light indicates a problem worth investigating, but it is generally not a “pull over immediately” situation. A solid light might be triggered by things like: A loose gas cap allows fuel vapors to escape A faulty oxygen sensor affects the air-fuel ratio A failing mass flow sensor is causing poor fuel economy Issues with the exhaust gas recirculation valve Minor engine sensor failures Spark plug or ignition coil wear A steady check engine light is still a warning light. Ignoring it for weeks or months can allow a minor engine issue to grow into something far more serious and costly. What a Flashing Check Engine Light Means A flashing check engine light is a different story entirely. When the light is blinking, your car is not just asking for attention – it is demanding immediate action. A blinking check engine light typically signals an active engine misfire, meaning one or more cylinders are not firing correctly during the combustion cycle. Here is why that is so urgent: when a misfire happens, raw fuel and unburned fuel pass through the combustion chamber and enter the exhaust system. This raw fuel can quickly overheat and damage the catalytic converter – one of the most expensive components in your vehicle’s emissions control system. Replacing a catalytic converter is rarely cheap, and continuing to drive with a flashing check engine light dramatically increases the risk of turning a manageable repair into a catastrophic engine problem. If you see a check engine light flashing, the right move is to stop driving as soon as it is safe to do so and call a mechanic. Common Causes Behind Check Engine Light Issues Both types of check engine lights can be triggered by a wide range of issues. Here is a closer look at what commonly triggers the check engine light in each scenario. Common Causes of a Steady Check Engine Light The steady check engine light appears most often when a sensor or non-critical system sends a fault signal to the car’s computer. An oxygen sensor that is reading the exhaust gas incorrectly is one of the most common causes. Other triggers include problems with the ignition system, a failing spark plug, a cracked or worn gasket, or even a loose gas cap that allows pressure to escape from the fuel system. Issues with the transmission, throttle position, variable valve timing, or even a failing vehicle battery can also trigger a solid check engine light. The car is still drivable in most cases, but you should schedule a diagnostic check soon. Common Causes of a Flashing Check Engine Light A flashing CEL almost always points to an engine misfire. The misfire might be caused by a worn spark plug that is no longer creating a clean ignition, a bad ignition coil that is not delivering enough energy to the combustion chamber, or a fuel injection problem that is disrupting the proper air-fuel ratio. In some cases, a flashing check engine light can also signal issues with engine compression, a timing belt problem, or head gasket failure. These are all situations where fuel entering the exhaust can cause serious and rapid damage. A mechanic needs to look at this immediately. Solid and Flashing Check Engine Light: How to Respond Understanding check engine light behavior is only useful if you know what to do next. If the light is solid: Schedule an appointment with a mechanic as soon as you reasonably can. You do not need to abandon your car on the side of the road, but you should not keep ignoring it either. The longer you wait, the higher the risk of an expensive repair. A good rule of thumb is to get it checked within a few days. If the light is flashing: Treat this as an emergency. Reduce your speed, avoid heavy acceleration, and stop driving when safe. The difference between a flashing and a solid light can literally be the difference between a $300 fix and a $2,000 repair. In both cases, getting proper diagnostics done is the only way to know for sure what you are dealing with. Modern vehicles store specific codes that help technicians pinpoint the exact problem. At Newnum and Sons Garage, the team uses advanced computer diagnostics services to read these codes accurately and explain the findings in plain language before any work begins. Why You Should Never Ignore Check Engine Lights Some drivers see a check engine light and

6 Head Gasket Symptoms You Shouldn’t Ignore (and What They Mean) Your car has been running a little off lately. Maybe the temperature gauge is creeping higher than usual, or you noticed something strange in the exhaust. You’re not sure what’s wrong, but something feels different. There’s a chance your head gasket is trying to tell you something. The head gasket is an engine component that does a critical job. The head gasket is a seal that sits between the engine block and cylinder head, keeping coolant, oil, and combustion gases in their proper passages. When it starts to fail, the consequences can escalate quickly. Knowing the head gasket symptoms early can save you from a much bigger repair bill down the road. What Does a Head Gasket Actually Do? The cylinder head gasket seals the connection between the engine block and cylinder head. It has to hold up against extreme heat and pressure while keeping coolant and oil from mixing together and preventing exhaust gas from escaping the combustion chamber. Every time your engine fires, the piston compresses a fuel and air mixture inside the cylinder. That compression creates intense force, and the gasket is what keeps everything contained. When a gasket blows, that careful separation breaks down, and engine problems follow fast. Common Signs of a Blown Head Gasket Recognizing the warning signs early is everything. Here are the most common signs of a blown head gasket to watch for. White Smoke From the Exhaust One of the clearest blown head gasket symptoms is white smoke pouring from the exhaust. This happens when coolant leaking into the combustion chamber gets burned along with the fuel. The result is thick, sweet-smelling white smoke that is different from the light condensation you might see on a cold morning. If the white smoke is heavy and doesn’t disappear after the engine warms up, that’s a red flag. A leaking head gasket is often the culprit, and continuing to drive the vehicle in this condition risks severe engine damage. Engine Overheating Engine overheating is one of the most serious head gasket symptoms you can experience. The head gasket can cause coolant to leak either internally or externally, and when coolant levels drop, the cooling system can’t regulate engine temperatures properly. Check your coolant reservoir. If the level keeps dropping without any visible external coolant or oil puddles underneath the car, there’s a good chance the coolant is leaking internally. Don’t ignore a rising temperature gauge – catching this early can prevent a cracked engine block or warped cylinder head. If your car’s heating and cooling system has been acting up, getting a proper inspection matters. Problems with the car heating and cooling system repair can reveal issues before they become catastrophic. Milky or Contaminated Oil Pop the oil cap and take a look. If you see a creamy, chocolate-milk-colored residue, that’s a serious sign of a bad head gasket. This happens when coolant and oil mix together, creating a contaminated sludge inside the engine. Oil and coolant are not meant to share the same space. When they mix, the contaminated oil loses its lubrication properties and can damage engine components rapidly. This is one of the head gasket issues you simply cannot afford to delay addressing. You can also learn more about what it means when your car is leaking oil to better understand oil-related warning signs. Bubbling in the Coolant Reservoir or Radiator Combustion gases in the coolant system point to a serious head gasket leak. When the gasket fails, exhaust gases can push through and enter the cooling system, causing the coolant to bubble as if it’s boiling – even when the engine hasn’t reached full operating temperature. You might notice this in the coolant reservoir or radiator cap area. It’s a tell-tale sign that gases in the coolant are present and that the seal between the engine block and combustion chamber has been compromised. Poor Engine Performance A blown head gasket can cause a noticeable drop in power. When the gasket fails, it can affect cylinder compression, which means the fuel and air mixture isn’t being burned efficiently. You might feel rough acceleration, misfires, or an overall sluggishness that wasn’t there before. Poor engine performance combined with any of the other signs mentioned here is a strong indicator that it’s time for a proper inspection. A check engine light that won’t go away is also worth investigating – here’s a helpful resource if you’re dealing with a check engine light that comes on and off. External Coolant or Oil Leak Sometimes a head gasket leak shows up on the outside of the engine. You might notice a coolant or oil stain along the block and head area, or smell something sweet near the engine bay. An external coolant or oil leak doesn’t always mean a fully blown gasket – it could be a minor leak – but it still needs attention before it becomes something worse. A minor leak left unaddressed will worsen with time, especially under the kind of heat cycles a typical engine goes through. A coolant smell in your car is also worth checking out – you can read more about a coolant smell in the car when the heater is on for more context. How Mechanics Confirm a Blown Head Gasket To confirm a blown head gasket, a trained technician will perform several diagnostic checks. These typically include a compression test to identify cylinder pressure loss, a chemical block test to detect exhaust gases in the coolant, and a careful visual inspection for oil passages that have been breached. Head gasket failure isn’t always obvious at first glance. That’s why professional diagnostics matter – guessing can lead to unnecessary repairs, while a proper diagnosis gets it right the first time. How to Prevent a Blown Head Gasket The best way to prevent a blown head gasket is to stay on top of your cooling system maintenance. Keeping coolant at the proper level, using the

Car Makes Noise When Accelerating? Common Causes and How to Fix Them You press the gas pedal, and something just sounds off. Maybe it is a whine, a rattle, or something that sounds like grinding. Whatever it is, your car is making noises it definitely should not be making, and that is your vehicle’s way of asking for attention. The good news is that most noises while accelerating come from a handful of known issues. Understanding the type of noise and when it happens can help you get to the root of the problem faster. Why Your Car Makes Noise When Accelerating Vehicles are complex machines with hundreds of moving parts. When one of those parts starts to wear down or fail, noise is often the first symptom. Noise during acceleration tends to stand out because that is when your engine, transmission, axle, and exhaust system are all working hardest. The key is not to ignore it. A sound that starts small can quickly turn into a much bigger repair bill if left alone. Common Causes of Noises During Acceleration Exhaust System Issues One of the most common causes of a loud noise while you accelerate is a problem with the exhaust system. An exhaust leak can create a hissing or popping sound that gets louder as your engine works harder. This happens when exhaust gases escape through a crack or hole before reaching the muffler. You might also notice a rattling noise if the heat shield has come loose. The heat shield sits near the exhaust pipe or muffler and can become loose over time from road vibration and wear and tear. It is worth having someone inspect the exhaust system if you hear a rattling or roaring sound that increases with speed. A damaged catalytic converter is another exhaust system issue to watch for. When the catalytic converter breaks down internally, it can create a loud exhaust system sound, almost like gravel shaking in a can. Engine Problems If you hear a ticking noise or a knocking noise coming from under the hood, your engine is likely trying to tell you something. A ticking noise is often tied to low oil pressure, worn-out fuel injectors, or components that are not getting enough lubrication. A knocking noise, especially during acceleration, often points to something more serious. It could mean your engine is using the wrong fuel, has carbon buildup, or has internal wear that needs a closer look. Getting professional engine repair services early can prevent a much larger problem from developing. Do not ignore engine noises. They rarely go away on their own. Transmission Noise Your transmission takes a lot of stress every time you accelerate. A whining noise during gear changes can signal low transmission fluid or a worn transmission component. Low transmission fluid reduces the system’s ability to stay lubricated and cool, which leads to friction and noise. A clunking sound when shifting gears is another sign of transmission trouble. If the noise increases as you gain speed, that is worth taking seriously. Catching transmission problems early through expert transmission repair and replacement can save you from a much more expensive fix later. CV Axle and Driveline Issues If you hear a clicking noise when accelerating while turning, the CV axle joints may be the culprit. CV (constant velocity) joints connect the axle to the wheel and allow for smooth power delivery. When they wear out, they create that distinctive clicking or popping sound. A rumbling noise or rumbling that gets worse as you speed up can also point to a failing wheel bearing. These components keep your wheels spinning smoothly, and when they start to fail, they make their presence known quickly. For anything related to axle or driveline wear, comprehensive driveline repair solutions can get your vehicle back on track. Serpentine Belt and Accessory Noise A worn or loose serpentine belt can cause a squealing sound, particularly when you accelerate from a stop. The serpentine belt drives several key systems, including power steering and the alternator, so when it is stretched or cracked, it slips and makes noise. If the belt snaps entirely, you lose those systems immediately. It is one of those small parts with a big job, and replacing a serpentine belt before it fails is one of the simplest ways to avoid being stranded. Brake and Suspension Noise Sometimes the noise you hear is not coming from under the hood at all. A scraping noise or rubbing sound when you accelerate can come from a brake pad that is dragging against the rotor. Brakes that are worn or sticking can create friction even when you are not braking. Suspension components that are worn can also create a clunking sound when you hit a bump while accelerating. Getting your suspension and brake repair services checked sooner rather than later keeps your car safe and predictable on the road. Is It Safe to Drive With These Noises? That depends on what you are dealing with. A loose heat shield or a belt squeal might give you a little time, but a knocking engine or transmission grinding is a different story entirely. Unusual noises, especially during acceleration, are signs of wear that should not be ignored. When in doubt, stop driving and have a professional take a look. Pushing a car through a mechanical issue can turn a manageable repair into a much larger one. Using advanced vehicle computer diagnostics can quickly identify what is causing the noise, even if it is not immediately obvious. Simple Things to Check First Before heading to a repair shop, there are a few basic things worth checking on your own. Check your oil level and oil filter condition. Low oil is a common cause of a ticking noise. Look under the car for anything visibly loose or damaged near the exhaust pipe. Check your air filter. A clogged air filter can affect how your engine breathes and contribute to strange noise under load. Listen carefully to

What Does a Bad U-Joint Sound Like? Warning Noises You Shouldn’t Ignore If your vehicle has started making strange sounds you can’t quite place, the u-joint might be the culprit. Most drivers don’t think about u-joints until something goes wrong, but catching the warning signs early can save you from a much bigger repair down the road. What Is a U-Joint and What Does It Do? A u-joint, short for universal joint, connects your driveshaft to the transmission and differential, allowing power to flow smoothly to your wheels even as the drivetrain moves up and down. On trucks and four-wheel drive vehicles, these joints take on a lot of stress. Over time, wear, rust, and lack of lubrication cause them to degrade. What Does a Bad U-Joint Sound Like? This is the question most drivers are asking, and the answer depends on how far along the damage has progressed. Clunking or Banging Noise One of the earliest and most common symptoms of a bad u-joint is a loud clunking sound when you shift into drive or reverse. The clunking or banging tends to be most noticeable when the vehicle first starts moving, especially when transitioning between gears. Worn u-joints are often a contributing cause of car shaking at high speeds. Squeaking Sound at Low Speeds A squeaking sound, especially at lower speeds, is another symptom of a failing u-joint. This noise often comes from dry bearing caps that have lost their grease due to corrosion or poor maintenance. Metal rubbing against metal is never a good sign, and it tends to get louder as the joint continues to wear. Vibration While Driving Vibration that gets worse at higher speeds is a common indicator of bad U-joints. When a joint starts to fail, the driveshaft can no longer rotate smoothly, causing the entire vehicle to vibrate. This is different from a tire balance issue, so if the problem feels like it is coming from underneath the car rather than the steering wheel, the driveline deserves a close look. You can learn more about common car repairs and maintenance to see how these problems connect. Other Signs of U-Joint Failure Beyond sound and vibration, visible rust on the joint, excessive play in the driveshaft, or a loose feeling in the rear of the vehicle can all indicate that your u-joints may be overdue for inspection. On 4WD vehicles, a failing joint near the transfer case can cause drivetrain binding or unusual behavior during turns. Bad u-joints do not always announce themselves dramatically. Sometimes the damage builds gradually until a component fails entirely. Why U-Joints Fail U-joints fail most commonly due to lack of lubrication, exposure to dust and moisture, or simple age-related wear. Replacing a u-joint with a quality kit and proper grease is straightforward when caught early. Delaying replacement risks driveshaft damage and a much more expensive repair. For deeper drivetrain concerns, our team also offers expert transmission repair and diagnostics to keep your vehicle running right from engine to axle. Conclusion Do not ignore unusual sounds coming from beneath your vehicle. A clunking sound, a persistent squeak, or an unexplained vibration could all point to a bad u-joint in need of attention. The team at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, is ready to inspect your vehicle and give you a straight answer. Reach out to a trusted mechanic before a small joint problem turns into a full driveline failure. Call us at 765-793-3334 or learn more about our professional driveline repair services today.

Why Your Steering Wheel Clicks When Turning and What to Do About It That click coming from your steering wheel when you turn can range from mildly annoying to genuinely alarming. Whether it’s a single click at low speed or a rhythmic clicking sound every time you turn the wheel, your car is trying to tell you something. The good news is that most of the common causes are diagnosable and fixable – you just need to know where to look. What Does It Mean When Your Steering Wheel Clicks? A clicking noise when turning is not something to ignore. It’s a sign that something in your steering or suspension system is worn, loose, or low on fluid. Left unaddressed, a small click can turn into a much bigger and more expensive problem. The sound when turning can vary. Some drivers hear a clicking or popping noise. Others describe it as a clicking or knocking sound that gets louder during sharp turns. The location and timing of the noise matter a lot when diagnosing the issue. Common Causes of a Clicking Noise When Turning There is no single answer here. A clicking noise when turning the steering wheel can come from several different places on the vehicle. Here are the most likely culprits. CV Joint Wear The CV joint – short for constant velocity joint – is one of the most common causes of a clicking sound when turning. The CV joint connects the axle to the front wheel and allows power to transfer smoothly while the suspension moves up and down. When a failing CV joint loses its grease due to a torn boot or just normal wear, it starts to make a clicking or popping noise, especially during turns. You will often hear a clicking sound when you turn the wheel sharply at low speed, like when pulling into a parking spot. If you hear a clicking or popping that gets worse as you turn harder, a failing CV joint is usually the first thing to inspect. Replacing a CV joint or the axle shaft is a straightforward job for a professional technician, and catching it early prevents damage to other suspension components. Steering Column Issues The steering column is the mechanical link between your steering wheel and the rest of the steering system. Inside the column, there are bearings, joints, and in some vehicles, a steering shaft that can wear over time. Column bearings can produce clicking noises when they dry out or become damaged. You might hear a clicking sound when turning your steering wheel from left to right at low speed, almost like something is catching inside the column. Steering column issues can also affect the steering wheel controls if the problem is near the end of the steering column where the clockspring sits – a component connected to airbag and audio controls. If something in your steering feels stiff or you hear a noise when you turn that seems to come from behind the dashboard, the steering column deserves a close look. Low or Dirty Power Steering Fluid If your vehicle uses hydraulic power steering, low power steering fluid or dirty power steering fluid can cause noises when turning the steering wheel. The power steering pump relies on clean hydraulic fluid to keep the steering rack and steering gear operating smoothly. Low or contaminated fluid creates air pockets inside the system, which can cause clicking, whining, or groaning sounds when you turn the steering wheel, especially at lower speeds. Stiff steering is another warning sign that something is off with the power steering system. Checking the fluid level is easy, but if the fluid looks dark or gritty, a flush and refill is the better move. Low fluid can also point to a leak somewhere in the system, which should be found and repaired before it damages the steering pump, rack, or other steering gear components. Worn Suspension Components Your suspension system does more than just smooth out bumps. It keeps your tires in contact with the road and directly affects steering control. When suspension components like ball joints, struts, or tie rods wear out, they can cause clicking, clunking, or a popping noise when turning. A bad ball joint or worn tie rod can make a clicking noise when you turn the wheel, particularly during slow maneuvers. You might also notice uneven tire wear or a pull to one side – both signs that the suspension system needs attention. These parts bear a lot of stress, especially on rougher roads, and they do not last forever. Ignoring worn suspension components can affect steering and brake performance, which puts both the vehicle and driver at risk. If you suspect this is the issue, it is worth having the full steering and suspension checked together. Wheel Bearing Problems A bad wheel bearing can cause a clicking or knocking noise that changes with speed and steering input. Unlike a CV joint, which tends to be loud during sharp turns at low speed, a failing wheel bearing often produces a humming or grinding sound that gets worse when you turn the wheel in one direction – such as turning left – at highway speeds. Wheel bearings are a safety component. When they fail, the front wheel can become unstable, which directly affects brake performance and automobile handling. If you hear a clicking sound when you turn, along with a rumble or vibration, have the wheel bearing checked immediately. For more on what causes unusual vibrations and noise from your vehicle, read our article on the causes of a car shaking at high speeds. How to Tell Which Problem You Have Not every click sounds the same, and the situation in which it happens gives you a lot of clues. Clicking at low speed during sharp turns – likely a failing CV joint Clicking or popping noise when turning at any speed with a stiff steering wheel – points to low or dirty power steering fluid Noise

Tire Balancing vs Alignment: What Your Car Really Needs Your tires are doing a lot of work. Every mile you drive puts wear and tear on them, and over time, small imbalances or alignment issues can turn into big problems. But here is where a lot of drivers get confused: tire balancing and wheel alignment are not the same thing. Knowing the difference between tire balance and alignment could save you money, protect your tires, and make your ride a whole lot smoother. Let us break it all down in plain language. What Is Tire Balancing and Why Does It Matter? Tire balancing corrects the uneven distribution of weight around your tire and wheel assembly. When a tire is mounted onto a rim, the weight is rarely perfectly even all the way around. Even small variations can cause your car to vibrate at higher speeds. Here is how it works: a technician mounts your wheel and tire assembly onto a tire balancing machine. The machine spins the tire and wheel together to detect where the weight is off. Then small weights are added to the rim to even things out. Signs Your Tires May Need Balancing One of the clearest signs of an unbalanced tire is vibration. You might feel vibrations in your steering wheel, through your seat, or even in the floorboards. This tends to get worse the faster you drive. That’s why we wrote about why cars shake at high speeds – it’s a problem worth understanding. Other signs include: Uneven tire wear on specific spots of the tread A steering wheel that shakes at highway speeds Reduced fuel efficiency due to extra rolling resistance Regular tire balancing helps prevent these issues before they become costly. The benefits of tire balancing go beyond comfort – they include longer tire life and better fuel economy. Prolonging tire life means getting more value out of every tire you buy. How Often Should You Balance Your Tires? Most mechanics recommend balancing your tires every 5,000 to 6,000 miles, or whenever you notice something feels off. It is also smart to schedule balancing with every tire rotation. If you have had a flat tire repaired or replaced a tire recently, that new tire will need balancing too – even brand-new tires are not always perfectly balanced from the factory. What Is Wheel Alignment and How Is It Different? While tire balancing deals with weight distribution around the tire, wheel alignment refers to the angles at which your tires make contact with the road. Proper wheel alignment ensures your tires are all pointing in the correct direction relative to each other and to your vehicle’s frame. Alignment involves adjusting the car suspension – specifically the angles of the wheels – so that your vehicle drives straight and handles predictably. A four-wheel alignment checks and adjusts all four wheels, while a front-end alignment only addresses the front axle. The Difference Between Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The key difference between tire balance and wheel alignment comes down to this: balancing fixes vibration caused by uneven weight, while alignment fixes the direction your tires point. They address different problems, but both directly affect how your car drives and how long your tires last. Improper wheel alignment causes your tires to drag slightly instead of rolling cleanly. This leads to premature tire wear, reduced fuel efficiency, and handling problems. Alignment affects everything from your steering response to how evenly your tire tread wears down over time. Signs You Need a Wheel Alignment Alignment problems often sneak up on you gradually. Common signs that it is time for a wheel alignment include: Your car pulls to one side even when you are driving on a flat, straight road A crooked steering wheel when you are driving straight You notice uneven tire wear across the tread The steering wheel is off-center or feels loose Hitting a pothole, bumping a curb, or any kind of road impact can knock your wheels out of alignment. If you have had any suspension work done recently, getting your alignment checked is a smart follow-up step. Learn more about how your vehicle’s suspension and brake system services connect to overall tire health and handling. What Proper Alignment Does for Your Car Wheel alignment ensures your tires work together as a team. Proper alignment ensures even tire tread wear, which means you get the most out of each tire before needing to replace it. Alignment keeps your vehicle tracking straight, reduces driver fatigue, and supports better fuel efficiency since aligned tires roll more efficiently. Alignment helps prevent the kind of premature tire tread wear that forces you into early replacements. It also reduces stress on your steering components and car suspension, which can prevent more expensive repairs down the line. Tire Balancing or Alignment: Which One Do You Need? This is the most common question, and honestly, the answer depends on your symptoms. A vibrating steering wheel usually points to a tire balance issue. A car that pulls to one side or a steering wheel that feels off-center usually signals alignment issues. Sometimes you need both. Alignment and tire balancing together make up a solid foundation for tire maintenance. If you are not sure, a professional inspection will sort it out quickly. Checking out the most common car repairs drivers face can give you a broader picture of what routine maintenance actually looks like. Expert tire balancing and wheel alignment services are part of a smart, ongoing preventative vehicle maintenance schedule. Staying on top of both is one of the best ways to protect your investment in your tires and your vehicle overall. Schedule Your Tire Balancing and Alignment in Covington, IN At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, Indiana, we offer tire balancing and alignment as part of our complete auto repair services. Whether your steering wheel shakes at highway speeds or your car drifts to one side, our technicians will diagnose the problem and fix it right. Call us at 765-793-3334

Clunk Noise Going Over Bumps? Here’s What Your Car Is Trying To Tell You That clunk noise every time you hit a bump is hard to ignore. It might start as a subtle knock over small bumps and gradually turn into something louder and more alarming. Your car is giving you a signal, and the smart move is to pay attention before a minor issue becomes a costly repair. Why Does Your Car Make a Clunking Noise Over Bumps? When you drive over a bump, your vehicle’s suspension system absorbs the impact so you don’t feel every crack and dip in the road. That system is made up of dozens of components working together, and when even one of them wears out or comes loose, it can produce a clunking noise that’s both annoying and potentially dangerous. The clunk you hear is essentially two metal or rubber parts knocking together when they shouldn’t be. Understanding the source of the noise helps narrow down which part needs attention. Common Causes of That Clunking Sound Worn Shocks or Struts Shocks and struts are designed to absorb road impacts and control how your car responds during compression. When a shock or strut wears out, the car bounces more than it should, and the extra movement causes other suspension components to knock around. You might notice a louder clunk when going over speed bumps or driving over uneven surfaces. Worn front struts, in particular, can make a clunking noise when going over even mild dips in the road. Bad Sway Bar Links or Bushings The sway bar – also called an anti-roll bar – helps keep your car balanced through turns and over uneven pavement. It connects to the rest of the suspension through a sway bar link and rubber bushings. When these wear out, you’ll often hear a rattle or clunk from the front end, especially at low speeds over small bumps. Loose sway bar links or sway bar bushings are one of the most common causes of suspension noise. Ball Joints and Control Arms Ball joints connect your wheels to the control arm and allow your steering system to move freely. A worn ball joint can make a clunking noise when the wheel hits a bump or when you turn the steering wheel. Control arm bushings – made from natural rubber – absorb vibration between the control arm and the vehicle frame. When those rubber bushings deteriorate, they allow extra movement that creates noise when driving over bumps. Strut Mount Issues The strut connects to the car body through a shock mount at the top. If the mount wears down, it can no longer isolate the strut from the vehicle frame properly, which leads to a clunking sound over bumps. This part is easy to overlook but important for ride quality and vehicle handling. Tie Rods and the Steering Rack Your steering and suspension systems share several components, including tie rods and steering knuckles. Worn or loose tie rods can produce a clunking noise, especially when turning or hitting bumps. Worn steering rack mounts can create a similar effect. If the noise shifts from one side to another – say, from the driver’s side to the passenger side – tie rods are worth inspecting. Other Things to Check Sometimes the clunk isn’t coming from the car’s suspension at all. A loose heat shield, skid plate, or even a loose brake caliper bracket can all make a clunking noise when you drive over a bump. A loose axle or worn CV joint can also produce clunking sounds, particularly during acceleration. If you’re dealing with driveline noise, it’s worth looking into driveline and axle repair. How Serious Is the Clunk? That depends on the source. Worn or damaged suspension parts don’t just create noise – they affect how your car handles, brakes, and holds the road. A failing ball joint, for example, can cause uneven tire wear and, in severe cases, sudden loss of steering control. Ignoring suspension issues means risking your safety every time you hit a bump or pothole. You can read more about the causes of car shaking at high speeds to understand related warning signs, or browse the most common car repairs and maintenance issues for a broader look at what vehicles need over time. Signs of wear in the entire suspension system often show up together, so one clunking noise when going over bumps may signal that multiple parts need attention. What To Do Next If you notice a new noise when going over bumps, don’t wait. The technicians at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, can diagnose the problem and explain exactly what’s going on before any work begins. They offer suspension and brake system repairs and full professional auto repair services with upfront estimates and no guesswork. Conclusion A clunk when you hit a bump isn’t just an annoyance – it’s your car telling you something needs attention. From worn shocks to bad links or bushings, the front suspension takes a beating on rough roads. Getting it checked early keeps repair costs down and keeps you safe. If you’re in Covington and hearing noise when driving over bumps, call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 to schedule an inspection today.

Spongy Brake Pedal? What It Means and How to Fix It Fast There is nothing quite as unsettling as pressing your brake pedal and feeling it sink further than it should, or feeling that soft, mushy give instead of the firm resistance you expect. A spongy brake pedal is not just annoying – it is a warning sign that something in your brake system needs attention, and the sooner you act, the safer you will be. This guide breaks down the causes of a soft or spongy brake pedal, how to diagnose the problem, and what you can do to fix it. What Does a Spongy Brake Pedal Actually Feel Like? Most drivers know what a healthy brake pedal feels like. You press it, it pushes back with firm resistance, and the car slows down predictably. A spongy brake pedal feels different – there is a soft, compressible quality to it, almost like pressing a sponge instead of a firm surface. In some cases, the pedal may travel closer to the floor before engaging the brakes. In more serious situations, the soft brake pedal can progress to a low pedal that barely responds, or to a sinking pedal that goes nearly to the floor. These are all signs of spongy brakes that should not be ignored. Signs of Spongy Brakes You Should Watch For Beyond the obvious feel of the pedal, there are a few other signs of spongy brakes worth paying attention to. The pedal requires more pressure than usual to slow the vehicle Braking feels inconsistent or unpredictable A brake warning light appears on the dashboard You notice visible brake fluid under the car or near the wheels The pedal improves slightly after pumping it several times If you notice any of these, it is time to diagnose the issue before it affects brake performance where it counts most. Common Causes of a Spongy or Soft Brake Pedal Understanding what causes a soft or spongy brake pedal is the first step to fixing it. There are several potential culprits, and some are more urgent than others. Air in the Brake System The most common cause of a soft brake pedal is air in the brake lines. Your brake system relies on hydraulic pressure to function – when you press the brake pedal, brake fluid transfers that force to the caliper, which then squeezes the brake pad against the rotor to slow the wheel. Air is compressible in a way that brake fluid is not. When air gets into the brake lines, it absorbs some of that pressure instead of transmitting it, which causes the brake pedal to feel spongy or soft. Air in the brake system can get there through a fluid leak, during brake repairs, or when brake components are replaced without a proper bleeding procedure. A Brake Fluid Leak A fluid leak anywhere in the brake system can introduce air into the system and reduce hydraulic pressure. The leak might be coming from the master cylinder, a caliper, a brake hose, or the brake lines themselves. Fluid leaks around seals and connections are especially common in older vehicles, where wear and rust can cause components to degrade over time. If there is a brake fluid leak, you may notice the brake fluid reservoir is low, or you may see a wet spot or puddle near a wheel. A visible brake fluid puddle or stain is a clear signal to get the brake system inspected right away. A Failing Master Cylinder The master cylinder is the heart of the hydraulic brake system. It converts the mechanical force of pressing the brake pedal into hydraulic pressure that activates the brakes at each wheel. When the master cylinder starts to fail, it can allow fluid to bypass its internal seals, which causes the pedal to feel soft or drop under sustained pressure. A bad master cylinder is a serious issue. It is one of the causes of a soft brake condition that genuinely puts you and others at risk on the road. If you suspect the master cylinder, have it inspected by a professional without delay. Contaminated Brake Fluid Contaminated brake fluid is a less obvious but important cause of brake problems. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and when the fluid goes too long without being changed, that moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point. Under heavy braking, old fluid from boiling can create vapor bubbles that behave like air in the system – reducing pressure and causing a spongy feel. Contaminated brake fluid can also cause the system to gum or gel internally, which affects brake components and overall brake performance. Using the wrong type of brake fluid can make things worse. Most passenger vehicles use DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid; DOT 5 (silicone) should never be mixed with other types because mixing can cause the system to gum or gel. A Damaged or Swollen Brake Hose A brake hose connects the rigid brake lines to the caliper at each wheel, and it is designed to handle significant pressure. If the brake hose becomes damaged, swollen, or deteriorated internally, it can act like a balloon – expanding slightly when the pedal is pressed rather than transmitting full pressure to the caliper. This can feel similar to a fluid leak. Air entering from outside the hose is rare, but internal hose collapse can noticeably affect pedal feel. It is also possible for debris or rust to affect the ability of the fluid to properly enter and exit the hose. Worn Brake Components Sometimes, worn brake pads and rotors contribute to a soft or inconsistent pedal feel, especially if the brake pad has worn down significantly. In disc brake systems, a heavily worn pad means the caliper piston has to travel much further before making contact with the rotor. In some cases, new rotors or new brake pads are needed to restore proper function. In drum brake systems, worn rear brakes can affect the overall feel when the

7 Car Heater Problems: Why Your Cabin Won’t Warm Up and How to Fix It Climbing into your car on a freezing morning only to get nothing but cold air from the vents is one of the most frustrating things a driver can deal with. A functioning car heater isn’t just about comfort – it’s also essential for defrosting windows and staying safe on the road. When heat isn’t working, it pays to understand why before assuming the worst. The good news is that many car heater problems have simple explanations. This guide breaks down the most common causes of car heater failure and what you can do about each one. How Your Car’s Heating System Actually Works Before diving into what goes wrong, it helps to understand what goes right. Your car’s heating system relies on hot coolant that circulates from the engine through a small radiator-like component called the heater core. A blower motor – essentially a centrifugal fan – pushes air through the heater core, and that warmed air flows into the cabin through your vents. Think of it this way: the heater core is like a miniature furnace tucked behind your dashboard. When everything works together – the coolant, the pump, the blower, the thermostat, and the valves – you get reliable warm air. When any one of those parts fails, the whole system is affected. Common Causes of Car Heater Failure Low Coolant Level One of the most common reasons your car heater stops working is a low coolant level. Coolant won’t reach the heater core in sufficient volume if there isn’t enough fluid in the system, meaning the heater core has nothing to transfer heat from. The result is lukewarm or cold air even when you turn on the heater. Check your coolant by locating the coolant reservoir under the hood – it’s usually a translucent plastic tank with min/max markings. If it’s low, top it off with the correct coolant type for your vehicle. Note: If your coolant level regularly drops, it usually indicates a leak in the system that should be diagnosed and repaired. A Clogged Heater Core Over time, rust, corrosion, and debris can build up inside the heater core, restricting coolant flow through the heater and reducing its ability to produce heat. A clogged heater core is a common issue in older vehicles or those that haven’t had regular coolant flushes. Signs of a clogged heater core include weak or inconsistent heat, even when the engine is fully warmed up. In some cases, a flush can clear the blockage. In more difficult situations, heater core replacement may be necessary. A Leaking Heater Core A leaking heater core creates a different set of symptoms. If the heater core is leaking, coolant can seep into the cabin, and you might notice a sweet smell inside the car or foggy windows that don’t clear with the defogger. You may also notice your coolant level dropping without any visible puddle under the vehicle. A sweet smell in the car, combined with a heating problem, is a strong signal that the heater core needs attention. This is worth addressing quickly, since leaking coolant can also cause the engine to overheat if left unchecked. If you have noticed a coolant smell when the heater is on, that’s a symptom you should not ignore. Air Pockets in the Cooling System Air pockets can form inside the cooling system after a coolant flush, a repair, or if the system loses pressure. Air pockets in the cooling system prevent hot coolant from flowing freely to the heater core, which can leave you with a car heater blowing cold air even though the coolant level looks fine. Bleeding the cooling system – removing those trapped air pockets – often resolves this heater problem. It’s a straightforward procedure but one that’s easy to get wrong without the right tools and experience. A Faulty Thermostat The thermostat regulates when coolant circulates from the engine to the radiator. If it’s stuck open, coolant circulates too early, and the engine never fully reaches its operating temperature. When that happens, the heater relies on hot coolant that simply isn’t hot enough, and you’ll feel lukewarm or cold air from the vents. A stuck thermostat is a common cause of both poor heater performance and an engine that seems to run cool. Replacing a faulty thermostat is typically a straightforward repair and can make a significant difference. Blower Motor or Electrical Issues If the heater isn’t producing airflow – for example, no air comes from the vents even when the fan is on – the problem may be electrical rather than with the coolant system. The blower motor, a fuse, a resistor, or electrical wiring could be to blame. If the blower motor isn’t working, air simply doesn’t get pushed through the system, regardless of how hot the coolant gets. A blown fuse is one of the easiest fixes possible. But if it’s a failed resistor, actuator, or short circuit, the repair requires more careful diagnosis. Heater Control Valve Problems The heater control valve regulates coolant flow to the heater core. If this valve sticks or fails, it can either prevent flow to the heater core entirely or cause the system to blow a mix of hot and cold air at random. This is a less obvious cause of heater issues, but it’s worth checking if other components look fine. When to Call a Professional Some car heater issues are simple – a low coolant level or a blown fuse. Others, like a clogged heater core, a leaking heater core, or a failed blower motor, require professional tools and expertise to fix properly. If your car heater isn’t working and the basic checks haven’t helped, it’s time to bring it in. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the team offers complete vehicle heating and cooling system services to diagnose and repair whatever is keeping your cabin from warming up. Whether it’s a quick