Newnum and Sons Garage

Common Problems After Replacing Crankshaft Position Sensor You did everything right. You diagnosed the issue, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and expected your car to run smoothly again. But now it’s still stalling, hesitating, or throwing the same fault code. What gives? This is more common than most people expect, and the good news is there’s usually a clear reason why. Why Replacing the Sensor Doesn’t Always Fix the Problem The crankshaft position sensor plays a critical role in telling your engine control unit exactly where the crankshaft is in its rotation. That information is used to control fuel injection timing, ignition, and overall engine speed in revolutions per minute. When the sensor fails, the engine loses that data – and things go sideways fast. But here’s the thing: the sensor itself is sometimes the last piece of the puzzle, not the first. The New Sensor Might Not Be the Right One Not every replacement part is created equal. A low-quality sensor can fail quickly or send inaccurate signals to the computer. A qualified technician will verify the sensor’s output directly before calling the job done. The Wiring or Electrical Connector Could Be Damaged One of the most overlooked causes of continued stalling after a sensor replacement is damaged electrical wiring. The original sensor may have failed because of corrosion, a frayed wire, or a loose electrical connector – not because the sensor itself wore out. If the underlying wiring issue isn’t fixed, the new sensor will suffer the same fate. Corrosion on the connector pins is especially sneaky. It can cause intermittent signal loss that the on-board diagnostics system reads as a bad sensor, even when the sensor is functioning correctly. Other Causes of Stalling That Mimic a Bad Crankshaft Sensor If your vehicle is still acting up after the replacement, consider that something else may be contributing to the symptoms. Camshaft Position Sensor Issues The camshaft position sensor works in close coordination with the crankshaft sensor. If one is off or failing, the engine control unit can misread timing data, leading to rough acceleration, stalling, or engine knocking. It’s worth having both inspected together. Fuel System Problems A weak fuel pump or fuel delivery issue can cause symptoms that look almost identical to a bad crankshaft sensor. If the engine is starved for fuel at certain speeds or loads, it will hesitate or stall – even if every sensor in the system is working perfectly. Electric Battery and Charging System Faults A low or unstable voltage from the electric battery can interfere with sensor signals. The computer depends on clean, stable power to interpret sensor data correctly. Voltage drops can cause false readings that trigger fault codes and unpredictable engine behavior. What a Proper Diagnosis Actually Looks Like A real diagnosis isn’t just swapping a part and hoping for the best. A trained technician will use live data from the on-board diagnostics system to watch the crankshaft and camshaft sensor signals in real time during acceleration and idle. They’ll inspect the electrical wiring, check the fuel pump output, test the battery, and compare the noise pattern of any engine knocking against known failure signatures. Jumping straight to a part replacement without that full-picture inspection – sometimes called a “parts cannon” approach – wastes money and leaves the real problem untouched. Still Having Issues? Get It Diagnosed the Right Way If your vehicle is still stalling after a crankshaft position sensor replacement, the answer isn’t another new sensor. It’s a proper inspection that looks at the whole system, including wiring, connectors, the camshaft sensor, fuel delivery, and the health of the engine control unit itself. Why Your Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement Still Didn’t Fix the Problem Continued stalling after replacing the crankshaft position sensor usually points to something deeper – damaged wiring, corrosion, a failing fuel pump, or a related sensor issue. Guessing costs more in the long run. If your vehicle is still giving you trouble, schedule a professional electrical system inspection at Newnum and Sons Garage. Our technicians use the right tools and the right process to find what’s actually wrong. Call us at 765-793-3334 and let’s get your car running the way it should.

Tire Plug vs Tire Patch: Only One Seals for Good You’re driving along, and suddenly the car starts pulling to one side. You pull over, and sure enough – a flat tire. Now what? If someone tells you they can “just plug it,” you might wonder if that’s actually good enough. Or maybe you’ve heard that a patch is the right fix, but you’re not sure why. The truth is, both methods exist for a reason – but they are not equal. One is a quick field fix. The other is a permanent repair. Knowing the difference can protect your vehicle, your wallet, and everyone riding with you. What Is a Tire Plug? A tire plug is exactly what it sounds like. It is a small, pliable strip – usually made from a rubber compound similar to natural rubber – that gets pushed directly into a puncture hole from the outside of the tire. The process involves a tool called a reamer, which roughens the inside of the hole, and then a plug is threaded through. No dismounting the tire. No removing it from the wheel. It is fast, cheap, and part of many roadside repair kits. The problem is that a plug works from the outside in. It does not let a technician see the inside of the tire. That means any internal damage – cracks, belt separation, or structural integrity issues – goes completely undetected. When a Plug Might Be Used A plug is best understood as a temporary solution. It can get you off the shoulder of the road and to a shop safely. But it was never designed to be a final repair, and most tire manufacturers will not honor a warranty on a tire that was repaired with a plug only. What Is a Tire Patch? A tire patch is applied from the inside of the tire. To do this properly, a technician must dismount the tire from the wheel entirely. They clean the damaged area, apply a bonding adhesive, and press a patch – usually a rubber- or steel-reinforced piece – firmly over the puncture. This method actually seals the leak from the inside out. It also gives the mechanic a clear view of the interior of the tire, so they can check for any hidden damage that might cause a blowout down the road. Why Patches Hold Better The adhesive used in a proper patch repair creates a bond that holds up against changes in cold inflation, pressure, heat, and the stress of everyday driving. It maintains the tire’s structural integrity far better than a plug alone. Most tire and auto mechanic associations recognize the patch as the industry standard for a reason. The Best of Both Worlds: Plug-Patch Combo Here is where it gets interesting. The most reliable repair available is a combination plug-patch, sometimes called a mushroom patch. This repair plugs the puncture channel and patches the inner liner at the same time. This repair plugs the puncture channel and patches the inner liner at the same time. It is what a qualified technician will use when the goal is a lasting, safe fix. It addresses both the hole and the seal in one step, which is why it is widely considered the only method that “seals for good.” What Makes a Tire Repairable at All? Not every flat tire can be fixed – regardless of the method. Here are the general rules that determine whether a repair is even safe: The puncture must be in the central tread area, not on the tire shoulder or sidewall The hole should be no larger than 1/4 inch in diameter The tire must not have significant tread wear, internal damage, or prior improper repairs The tire-pressure monitoring system should be checked after any repair to ensure it reads correctly If any of these conditions are not met, the safest answer is a full tire replacement. Plug vs Patch: A Quick Comparison Feature Tire Plug Tire Patch Plug-Patch Combo   Applied from inside No Yes Yes Requires dismounting No Yes Yes Seals inner liner No Yes Yes Permanent fix No Yes Yes Warranty-safe Rarely Often Yes Typical cost Low Moderate Moderate The cost difference between a plug and a proper patch or combo repair is usually small. The difference in safety and long-term reliability is significant. Why You Should Not Skip the Shop It can be tempting to grab a repair kit from an auto parts store and handle it yourself. Those kits often come with a plug tool and a small canister of sealant. They work in an emergency – but they are not a substitute for a proper inspection. A trained auto mechanic will check not just the puncture itself but also the tire tread depth, the overall condition of the tire, and whether the vehicle’s alignment or suspension may have contributed to the issue. Catching a problem early saves money and keeps your car safe on the road. Which Tire Repair Holds Up Best? A tire plug is a temporary fix, while a patch or plug-patch combo is the only repair that genuinely seals a tire for the long haul. If you have a flat tire and want it done right, bring your vehicle in for a professional tire inspection. The team at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN is ready to assess the damage honestly and recommend the safest repair. Call 765-793-3334 to schedule your visit today.

7 Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt You are driving down the road and suddenly hear a high-pitched squeal coming from under the hood. It is easy to assume the worst, but more often than not, that noise is your car trying to tell you something specific. The serpentine belt is one of the most common culprits behind that kind of sound, and ignoring it can lead to much bigger problems down the road. What Is a Serpentine Belt and Why Does It Matter? The serpentine belt is a long, winding belt that connects your engine to several critical components all at once. Unlike older vehicles that used multiple individual belts, most modern cars use one serpentine belt to drive the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and sometimes the coolant pump. Think of it as the engine’s workhorse. If it wears out or snaps, your alternator stops charging the electric battery, your steering becomes stiff, and your A/C stops cooling – all because of one belt. Common Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt Squealing or Chirping Noises The most obvious symptom is a loud squeal or chirp coming from the engine bay. This noise often happens when the belt slips on a pulley due to wear, misalignment, or a faulty tensioner. You may notice it most when you first start the vehicle or when you turn the steering wheel sharply. Power Steering Feels Heavy If your steering suddenly feels much heavier than usual, the serpentine belt may no longer be turning the power steering pump properly. This is a safety issue that should not be ignored. Driving with compromised steering puts you and everyone around you at risk. Battery Warning Light on the Dashboard When the serpentine belt is failing, the alternator may not be generating enough power to keep the electric battery charged. You might notice the battery warning light appear on your dashboard, or your car may struggle to start. This is your vehicle telling you the charging system is no longer working as it should. Air Conditioning Stops Working The A/C compressor depends on the serpentine belt to operate. If the belt is cracked, worn, or slipping, you may notice warm air blowing through your vents even when the A/C is set to max. This is a less obvious symptom but a telling one. Visible Cracking or Fraying on the Belt Sometimes the inspection is as simple as looking. A belt that shows visible cracks, fraying, or glazing on the surface is past its service life. Service intervals vary, but most belts are designed to last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. If you have not had yours checked in a while, it is worth a look. What Causes a Serpentine Belt to Go Bad? Wear is the most natural cause. Over time, heat from the engine causes the rubber to harden and crack. A worn or seized pulley can also accelerate belt damage by creating uneven friction. Misalignment in the belt system is another common issue, and a bad tensioner can cause slipping even on a relatively new belt. Some people reach for a screwdriver to poke around or try to do a quick visual check on their own, and that is fine for a basic look. However, getting a proper inspection done by trained technicians means the whole system gets evaluated, not just the belt itself. Do Not Confuse It With a Timing Belt It is worth noting that the serpentine belt and the timing belt are two different things. The timing belt controls the camshaft and keeps your engine’s internal timing synchronized. The serpentine belt handles external accessories. Both are important, but they fail in different ways and serve different purposes. If you are shopping for information online, you may come across general automotive information sources. While these can offer general guidance, nothing replaces having your specific vehicle inspected by someone who knows what they are looking at. When Should You Get It Replaced? Most manufacturers recommend inspecting the serpentine belt every 30,000 miles and replacing it somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. However, symptoms should always override mileage estimates. If your vehicle is making noise, showing warning lights, or behaving differently, do not wait for your next scheduled service. Don’t Ignore the Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt A squealing noise from under the hood is not something to brush off. It is often one of the clearest symptoms of a bad serpentine belt, and the longer you wait, the more damage you risk to your engine, alternator, and other key systems. If you are hearing strange sounds or noticing changes in your steering or A/C, call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 to schedule an inspection. Their technicians will give your vehicle an honest, thorough look before any work begins.

Winter Car Checklist: What to Inspect Before You Drive Winter in Covington, IN is not something you can ease into. Temperatures drop fast, roads get slick, and one snowstorm can turn a normal commute into a genuine emergency. Your vehicle takes on a lot of stress during these months, and skipping a proper winter car checklist is one of the fastest ways to find yourself stranded on the side of the road. The good news? A little preparation goes a long way. Why Winter Is So Hard on Your Vehicle Cold weather creates a unique kind of wear and tear that most drivers underestimate. Freezing temperatures affect everything from your battery to your tire pressure, your engine fluids, and even your windshield wipers. The stress compounds quickly, and what seemed like a minor issue in October can become a roadside breakdown in January. The Winter Car Checklist You Should Not Skip Start With Your Tires Your tires are your first line of defense on icy roads. Check your tire tread depth before the cold really sets in. A quick way to test it is the penny method – insert a penny into the tread groove, and if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, it is time for new tires. Also check your cold inflation pressure regularly. Tire pressure drops about one PSI for every 10-degree drop in temperature. Under-inflated tires reduce traction and increase your risk of a traffic collision, especially when snow or ice is involved. If you are driving a truck or larger vehicle, this matters even more. Some drivers in colder climates choose snow tires, which are designed to grip better on icy surfaces than all-season options. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system can help you compare options if you are shopping around. Check Your Battery Cold weather is brutal on a battery. If your battery is more than three years old, have it tested before winter arrives. A battery that barely gets you through fall mornings might fail completely when the temperature drops below freezing. Inspect Your Fluids Antifreeze, also called coolant, keeps your engine from freezing in extreme cold. Check the coolant reservoir and make sure the mixture is appropriate for winter temperatures. Low or old coolant can lead to a cracked engine block, which is an expensive lesson nobody wants to learn. Top off your windshield washer fluid with a formula rated for freezing temperatures. Regular water will freeze in the reservoir and leave you with zero visibility during a snowplow pass or early morning frost. Do not overlook brake fluid either – a leak in the brake system becomes far more dangerous on slick roads. Do Not Ignore Your Brakes Speaking of brakes, your anti-lock braking system (ABS) is one of the most critical safety features for winter driving. If your brake pedal feels soft, your stopping distance seems longer, or you hear grinding, get that looked at before the first ice storm hits. Automotive safety starts with being able to stop when it counts. Visibility Matters More Than You Think Check your windscreen wipers and replace any that are streaking or skipping. Winter wiper blades are worth the small investment. Also inspect your headlamps – cloudy or dim headlights cut your visibility significantly on dark winter roads, and other drivers need to see you too. Build a Winter Emergency Survival Kit Even with a complete checklist, emergencies happen. Keep a basic survival kit in your vehicle. This should include a blanket, jumper cables, a flashlight, an ice scraper, and basic first aid supplies. If you travel with a child, ensure their car seat or child safety seat is properly secured and appropriate for winter layers. Get Your Vehicle Ready Before Winter Hits Rust, leaks, and ignored warning lights all get worse in cold weather. A professional inspection before the season starts catches small problems before they become big ones. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the technicians are trained to spot the kinds of wear that winter accelerates. If you are due for a brake inspection this season, schedule a brake service with the team at Newnum and Sons Garage. You can also call them directly at 765-793-3334 to book your winter vehicle checkup before the next storm rolls through. Get Your Winter Car Checklist Done Before the First Storm Winter driving demands a reliable vehicle, and that starts with a thorough winter car checklist. From your tires and battery to your brakes and fluids, every system matters when the temperature drops and the roads get dangerous. Skipping these checks is not saving time – it is risking your safety. Let the experienced team at Newnum and Sons Garage help you get ahead of winter before it gets the better of your vehicle.

Types of Belts in Cars: Every Kind Explained Most drivers never think about the belts running through their engine bay until something goes wrong. By then, the damage is already done. Understanding the types of belts in cars is one of the simplest ways to protect your vehicle from a breakdown that could have been prevented. What Do Belts Actually Do in Your Car? Belts in your engine are not just rubber loops. They are the connectors that keep critical systems working together. Without them, your alternator stops charging your electric battery, your power steering pump stops working, and your air conditioning compressor goes silent. In short, belts transfer power from your crankshaft to the components that make your car actually drivable. The Two Main Types of Belts in Cars The Serpentine Belt The serpentine belt is the long, flat belt you can usually see when you pop the hood. It winds around a series of pulleys and drives several accessories at once, including the alternator, the power steering pump, the air conditioning compressor, and sometimes the radiator cooling fan. It is made from reinforced natural rubber and is designed to flex without cracking under heat. Over time, though, heat and friction break it down. If this belt snaps while you are driving, you lose steering assist, your battery stops charging, and your HVAC system cuts out entirely. Signs of a worn serpentine belt include: Squealing or chirping noise from the engine bay Visible cracking or fraying along the belt surface Battery warning light appearing on the dashboard Loss of power steering response Most manufacturers recommend inspecting the serpentine belt every 60,000 to 100,000 miles, though that number can vary based on your vehicle and driving conditions. The Timing Belt The timing belt is harder to see and even more critical. It connects the crankshaft to the camshaft, keeping the engine’s valves opening and closing in perfect sync with the pistons. If the timing belt breaks, the engine does not just stall. Depending on your engine type, the pistons and valves can collide, causing catastrophic internal damage. Replacing a timing belt proactively costs a fraction of what an engine rebuild would run you. Different groups and associations consistently list timing belt failure as one of the top causes of unexpected engine damage. It is often invisible until it is too late, which is why routine inspection matters. What to watch for: A ticking or slapping noise near the top of the engine Difficulty starting the vehicle or misfires Oil leaking from the front of the engine A rough idle that was not there before Most timing belts need replacement between 60,000 and 105,000 miles. Check your owner’s manual or ask a technician to confirm the right interval for your car. A Third Belt Worth Knowing: The V-Belt Older vehicles and some specialty applications still use V-belts, which are wedge-shaped and typically drive a single accessory each. You might find separate V-belts running the power steering pump, the cooling fan, or the air conditioning compressor individually. Modern vehicles have largely moved to a single serpentine belt setup, but if you are driving an older car, it is worth knowing whether your car still uses V-belts. Why Belt Inspections Are Not Optional Belts degrade from the inside out. The outer surface might look fine while the internal cords are already starting to separate. That is why a visual check alone is not enough. A proper belt inspection involves checking tension, looking for glazing or cracking, and examining the pulleys and hose routing nearby. Neglecting this step puts your fuel efficiency and engine temperature control at risk. Keep Your Car Running: Check Your Belts Before They Fail Your car’s belts are small components doing enormous jobs. Whether it is the serpentine belt powering your alternator and steering or the timing belt keeping your engine in sync, a failure in either one can leave you stranded or facing a costly engine repair. If you cannot remember the last time your belts were checked, now is the right time to schedule an inspection. Call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 to get your engine looked at by technicians who take belt maintenance seriously.

10 Things to Do in Covington, IN While You Wait for Your Car Repair Dropping your vehicle off for service does not have to mean sitting in a waiting room and watching the clock. Whether you are in for a quick oil change or a more involved job like engine repair or transmission repair, Newnum and Sons Garage sits right in the heart of downtown Covington, which means good food, errands, and a few relaxing options are all within an easy walk of our shop at 408 Liberty Street. Here are ten easy ways to spend your time while our ASE-certified technicians take care of your vehicle. 1. Grab a Coffee or a Meal at Courthouse Cafe Just a short walk down Liberty Street, Courthouse Cafe is a comfortable spot to sit down with a hot coffee and something to eat while your car is on the lift. It is a good choice if you dropped your vehicle off in the morning and want breakfast, or if you would rather sip coffee and catch up on emails than sit in our lobby. 2. Treat Yourself at Sundae Shoppe If your service is going to take a little longer, or you just want a sweet break, Sundae Shoppe on 4th Street is worth the walk. A sundae or milkshake is a small way to make an unexpected repair feel a little less stressful, especially if you have kids waiting with you. 3. Knock Out Banking Errands Covington has several banking options within a few blocks of our shop, including Old National Bank and Industrial Federal Credit Union on Washington Street, plus The Fountain Trust Company on 3rd Street. Waiting on a repair is a good time to make a deposit, talk to a loan officer, or handle any banking you have been putting off, since you already have the time set aside and you are already downtown. 4. Take Some Time for Yourself at Two Roads Wellness Clinic Located on 4th Street, Two Roads Wellness Clinic is a good option if you would rather use your wait time to take care of yourself instead of running errands. Car trouble can be stressful, and a short wellness appointment can help turn an inconvenient afternoon into something productive. 5. Have Lunch or Watch the Game at Northside Pub If your vehicle is in for something more involved, like suspension and brake work or a driveline repair, you may have a few hours to fill. Northside Pub on Washington Street is a comfortable place to grab lunch, watch whatever game is on, and relax while our technicians work. 6. Pick Up Groceries at County Market Waiting for a repair is a good excuse to knock out your grocery list. County Market on 3rd Street carries deli items in addition to standard groceries, so you can grab lunch and the ingredients for dinner in the same trip, then head back to pick up your vehicle once we call. 7. Fill a Prescription or Pick Up Essentials at CVS Pharmacy If you need to refill a prescription, pick up something for a headache, or grab travel-size toiletries, CVS Pharmacy on 3rd Street is a quick stop. It is an easy way to check something off your to-do list while you wait, especially for shorter jobs like a tire rotation or a computer diagnostics check. 8. Relax or Get Work Done at Covington Public Library For a quiet place to read, work on a laptop, or just get away from noise for a while, the Covington Public Library on 5th Street is one of the best options in town. It is a particularly good fit if your vehicle is in for a longer repair and you would rather work than run errands. 9. Take a Walk Around Downtown Covington Covington’s downtown area is small and walkable, with a historic courthouse square and a mix of local shops. If the weather is nice, a walk around downtown is a simple, free way to pass the time, clear your head, and stretch your legs before heading back to pick up your vehicle. 10. Learn More About Keeping Your Vehicle Running Well While you are waiting, it is also a good time to think ahead. Our blogs cover maintenance tips, seasonal service reminders, and answers to common questions about heating and cooling systems, electrical issues, and more. A few minutes of reading now can help you avoid a surprise repair down the road. We Will Have You Back on the Road Soon At Newnum and Sons Garage, we know a car in the shop can throw off your whole day, which is why we work to get every vehicle back to its owner as quickly as we can without cutting corners. We have proudly served Covington and the surrounding area for over 40 years, and our ASE-certified technicians stand behind their work with a one-year warranty on most parts and labor. If you need to schedule a repair or want to ask about how long a specific job might take, contact us or give us a call at (765) 793-3334. And if you would like to know more about who we are and how we work, visit our About Us page.

Is It Safe to Drive With a Bad Wheel Bearing? Not for Long A strange humming noise coming from your car is easy to ignore at first. Maybe you turn up the radio. Maybe you tell yourself it will go away. But when that noise is a failing wheel bearing, ignoring it is one of the riskiest decisions you can make behind the wheel. So let’s answer the question directly: no, it is not safe to drive with a bad wheel bearing – at least not for long. Here is what you need to know, why it matters, and what to do before a manageable repair turns into a serious safety hazard. What Is a Wheel Bearing and What Does It Do? A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls or rollers held together inside a metal ring. It is a mechanical component that allows your wheel to spin freely around the axle with minimal friction. Without it, your tire cannot rotate smoothly, and your entire wheel assembly suffers. Bearings are tucked away inside the wheel hub, out of sight and easy to forget. But they are under constant load, especially during cornering, braking, and acceleration. Over time, heat, corrosion, and normal wear break down the bearing’s internal lubrication and structure. How Do You Know If Your Wheel Bearing Is Going Bad? Unusual Noises From the Wheel Area The most common early symptom is a humming, grinding, or growling noise that increases with vehicle speed. The sound often changes when you shift your weight – turning left may make it louder, turning right may quiet it down, or vice versa. That shift in noise is a classic sign that a specific wheel bearing is under stress. Vibration in the Steering Wheel A failing bearing can cause vibration that travels up through the car suspension and into your steering wheel. This is not just uncomfortable – it is a signal that something in the wheel assembly is losing stability. Uneven Tire Wear When a wheel bearing starts to fail, the wheel can develop a slight wobble. That vibration causes uneven contact between the tire and the road, leading to irregular wear patterns. If you are noticing strange wear on one tire that does not match the others, a worn bearing could be the reason. Loose or Wobbly Wheel Feel If your steering feels vague or imprecise, or if the car seems to wander slightly on a straight road, the bearing may no longer be holding the wheel firmly in place. That looseness only gets worse with time and driving distance. Why Driving on a Bad Wheel Bearing Is a Real Risk The Bearing Can Fail Completely Without Warning A worn bearing does not always give you a long warning window. What starts as a minor noise can accelerate into catastrophic failure, especially at highway speeds. When a wheel bearing fails completely, the wheel can seize or, in extreme cases, separate from the vehicle. Either outcome is a serious accident waiting to happen. It Affects Your Brakes Your braking system depends on the car suspension being stable and properly aligned. A bad bearing can throw off the disc brake rotor’s position, reducing brake contact and effectiveness. Vehicles equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS) are especially sensitive – the ABS sensors are often integrated into the wheel hub and bearing assembly. A failing bearing can trigger false ABS signals or disable the system entirely, removing one of your most important safety features on the road. It Puts Stress on Connected Components A wheel bearing does not fail in isolation. The constant-velocity joint, the axle, and car suspension components connected to that wheel all absorb extra stress when the bearing is worn. What starts as a bearing replacement can turn into a much larger repair if those surrounding parts take damage. Heat Becomes a Factor As the bearing wears down, friction increases. That friction generates heat – enough in some cases to damage the hub, the axle, and nearby brake components. Driving on a bad bearing is essentially accelerating the destruction of your wheel assembly from the inside out. How Long Can You Actually Drive on a Bad Wheel Bearing? This is the question everyone wants a clean answer to. The honest truth is: it depends on how far along the wear is, but the window is shorter than most drivers think. A bearing that is just beginning to make noise might last a few hundred miles. A bearing that is grinding loudly, causing vibration, or creating noticeable wheel wobble could fail much sooner – sometimes within miles. There is no safe number to count on. Towing, carrying heavy loads, or driving at higher speeds puts significantly more strain on the bearing and can push it to failure faster. If you suspect a bad bearing, the smartest move is to avoid highway driving, skip towing anything, and get the vehicle inspected as soon as possible. What Happens If You Ignore It Too Long? Here is the progression most drivers who wait too long will experience: The noise gets louder and more constant, no longer changing with steering input Vibration becomes noticeable through the seat and floor, not just the steering wheel The tire begins to wobble visibly when viewed from outside the vehicle Brake performance degrades The wheel seizes, locks up, or in rare cases detaches from the vehicle entirely At that point, you are no longer dealing with a bearing replacement. You are dealing with a roadside emergency, potential damage to the axle, hub, rotor, and surrounding suspension components, and a real risk of an accident. Getting It Fixed the Right Way Wheel bearing replacement is a straightforward job for a trained technician, but it does require the right tools and experience. The bearing must be properly pressed in and torqued to spec, and the surrounding components need to be inspected for wear or damage at the same time. If your vehicle is showing any of the symptoms described above,

Turbocharger Failure Symptoms You Should Never Ignore Your turbocharger is one of the hardest-working components under your hood. It uses exhaust gas to spin a turbine at thousands of revolutions per minute, forcing more air into the combustion chamber so your engine produces more horsepower without burning extra fuel. It is a brilliant piece of engineering – until it starts failing. The problem is that turbocharger failure symptoms rarely announce themselves loudly at first. They creep in slowly, and drivers often mistake them for something minor. By the time the damage is obvious, the repair bill has multiplied several times over. Here is what you need to watch for before a small problem becomes a dead engine. Why Turbochargers Fail in the First Place Before we get into the symptoms, it helps to understand what puts a turbocharger at risk. Most turbo failures trace back to a handful of root causes. Oil starvation is the number one killer. Your turbocharger depends on a steady flow of clean motor oil to lubricate its bearings. Without proper lubrication, those bearings wear down fast. Skipping oil changes or running low on oil puts your turbo in serious danger. Debris and contamination are also major culprits. A dirty or clogged air filter lets debris enter the intake side of the turbo, damaging the turbine blades and compressor. Even tiny particles can cause catastrophic wear at the speeds these components operate. Heat damage is another common issue. Turbos run at extreme temperatures. If you shut off a hot engine without letting it cool briefly, the oil inside the turbo can cook and form deposits that block lubrication passages over time. Foreign object damage, a failed wastegate, a malfunctioning actuator, or a failing vacuum pump can all contribute to turbocharger problems as well. The Warning Signs You Cannot Afford to Ignore You Hear a Whining or Screeching Noise One of the most recognized turbocharger failure symptoms is unusual noise. A healthy turbo runs with a faint, consistent hum. When you start hearing a high-pitched whining or screeching noise, rattling during acceleration, your turbo’s bearings may be wearing out or debris has made its way inside. This noise often gets louder as you push the throttle. Do not ignore it and assume it will go away on its own. Your Engine Loses Power and Acceleration Falls Flat A turbocharger exists to give your engine a boost. When it starts failing, that boost disappears. You might notice your car or truck feels sluggish pulling onto the highway, or your acceleration feels noticeably weaker than it used to be. If your vehicle feels like it lost horsepower overnight, your turbo is a strong suspect. A failing actuator or a leaking intercooler can also reduce boost pressure and produce this symptom. Smoke Coming From Your Exhaust Smoke is never a good sign, and when your turbo is involved, it usually means oil is leaking past worn seals and entering the combustion chamber. Blue or gray smoke pouring from the exhaust system is a classic symptom of a turbocharger burning motor oil internally. Diesel engine owners should pay especially close attention here. A diesel already produces more exhaust gas than a gas engine, so unusual smoke is easy to dismiss – but it should never be ignored. Your Check Engine Light Comes On Modern vehicles use a network of sensors to monitor performance. When your turbo underperforms or a boost pressure sensor detects a problem, your check engine light may illuminate. Some vehicles will also enter a reduced power mode to protect the engine from further damage. Do not assume the check engine light is just a sensor glitch. When combined with other symptoms on this list, it is a strong signal that your turbocharger needs attention. You Are Burning Through More Fuel Than Usual When a turbocharger fails, your engine has to work harder to maintain power. That extra effort translates directly to poor fuel economy. If you are filling up more often than usual and your driving habits have not changed, your turbo could be to blame. Fuel economy in automobiles is closely tied to engine efficiency, and a struggling turbo disrupts that efficiency significantly. Oil Leaks Around the Turbocharger A physical leak is one of the more straightforward turbocharger failure symptoms. Check around the turbo housing for signs of oil seeping out. A damaged seal, cracked housing, or a blocked oil return line can allow motor oil to escape and create a leak. Ignoring an oil leak means your engine runs low on oil, which then starves the turbo of lubrication and accelerates bearing wear. One problem feeds the other until something breaks entirely. What Happens If You Ignore These Symptoms Letting turbocharger problems go unaddressed does not just ruin the turbo. Debris from a failing turbo can travel downstream into the engine itself, causing severe internal damage. A complete turbo failure can send metal fragments through the intake and into the cylinders, destroying pistons, valves, and more. The cost difference between catching a failing turbo early versus replacing an entire engine is substantial. Early diagnosis and repair is always the smarter financial decision. How to Keep Your Turbocharger Healthy Prevention is straightforward with a few consistent habits. Change your oil on schedule using the oil grade your manufacturer recommends. Let your engine idle for a minute or two before shutting it off after hard driving, giving the turbo time to cool down. Inspect and replace your air filter regularly to keep debris out of the intake. And if your vehicle uses a vacuum pump or has a wastegate system, make sure those components are part of your regular inspection routine. Frequently Asked Questions How long does a turbocharger last? Most turbos are designed to last the life of the engine with proper maintenance. Poor oil maintenance or overheating can shorten that lifespan considerably. Can I drive with a failing turbocharger? Technically yes, but it is not recommended. Continued driving can turn a repairable turbo problem into

How Long Can a Car Sit Without Being Driven? Most people assume that as long as a car looks fine on the outside, it is fine. But a vehicle that sits untouched in a driveway or garage for weeks or months can quietly develop some serious problems. The engine, battery, tires, brakes, and fluids all need regular use and proper maintenance to stay in good shape. So how long can a car sit without being driven before things start going wrong? The short answer is: not as long as you might think. The General Rule of Thumb As a baseline, most mechanics will tell you that a car should not sit for more than two to four weeks without being started or moved. After that window, you start running into issues that range from mildly annoying to genuinely costly. That said, the exact timeline depends on several factors – how old the vehicle is, whether it has a manual transmission or an automatic, where it is parked, and what condition it was in before it sat. What Actually Happens When a Car Sits Too Long The Battery Dies This is usually the first thing to go. A car’s electric battery slowly loses its charge even when the vehicle is not running. In warm weather, a battery can go flat in as little as two to three weeks. In cold weather, that timeline shrinks even further. If your battery dies completely, you will need a jump start to get going again. Repeated deep discharges can permanently damage the battery, meaning you will be shopping for a replacement sooner than expected. A battery charger or trickle charger can help maintain the charge if you know the car will be sitting for a while. Fuel Degrades in the Tank Gasoline does not stay fresh forever. Modern gas with ethanol blends can begin to degrade in as little as 30 days. Over time, the fuel absorbs moisture from the air, which can lead to contamination and corrosion inside the tank itself. Old, degraded gasoline can also leave behind a sticky residue that clogs fuel injectors and other components. If a car has been sitting for several months, it is worth having the fuel system inspected before you try to drive it. This is especially true for older vehicles without fuel stabilizer in the tank. Motor Oil Breaks Down Motor oil is not just for lubrication – it also helps prevent rust and corrosion inside the engine. When a car sits for a long time, the motor oil settles and loses some of its protective properties. Moisture can also mix into the oil, reducing its effectiveness and potentially leading to engine damage over time. This is one reason why even a vehicle that has not been driven should have its oil changed if it has been sitting for more than six months, regardless of mileage. Tires Lose Pressure and Develop Flat Spots Tires naturally lose pressure over time due to atmospheric pressure changes and temperature swings. A tire that starts out properly inflated can be noticeably low after just a few weeks of sitting. Worse, tires that sit in one position for too long can develop flat spots – areas where the rubber has deformed from holding the car’s weight. In mild cases, the tire rounds out again after a few miles of driving. In more serious cases, the flat spot is permanent and the tire needs to be replaced. Brakes Can Rust and Seize Brake rotors are made of iron, and iron rusts quickly – especially when exposed to moisture, rain, or even just condensation. A thin layer of surface rust is normal and usually wipes away after a few stops. But if a car sits for weeks or months, that rust can become significant enough to affect braking performance or cause the brake pads to stick to the rotors. For vehicles with a manual transmission that have been parked with the handbrake engaged for a long time, the brake pads can actually fuse to the rotors. This is a real problem that can require more than just a brake inspection to fix. Fluids Deteriorate Across the Board Brake fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid all degrade over time. Brake fluid is particularly hygroscopic, meaning it actively absorbs moisture from the air. This lowers its boiling point and can lead to spongy brake pedal feel or reduced stopping power. Coolant that sits too long can become acidic and begin to corrode the radiator system and other components from the inside out. Keeping fluids fresh is one of the most overlooked parts of vehicle storage. Special Considerations for Different Vehicle Types Plug-In Hybrids and Hybrid Vehicles If you own a plug-in hybrid or a hybrid vehicle like a Hyundai Sonata hybrid, there are additional considerations. The high-voltage battery pack in these vehicles can degrade faster if left at very low or very high states of charge for extended periods. Manufacturers typically recommend keeping the battery charge between 20 and 80 percent during storage. Classic and Older Vehicles Older cars like a Chevrolet Monte Carlo or a classic truck often have more vulnerable fuel systems, rubber seals, and plastic components that dry out and crack more easily than modern vehicles. They also tend to have fewer protections against moisture and pest infestation. Rodents in particular love to nest in parked vehicles and can chew through wiring, hoses, and insulation. Performance Vehicles Cars like the Subaru WRX, which are driven hard and tuned tightly, are especially sensitive to extended storage. The engine, exhaust system, and suspension components on performance vehicles benefit from regular use and can suffer more visibly from sitting than a standard commuter car. How to Protect a Car That Needs to Sit If you know your vehicle will be parked for an extended period, there are some practical steps you can take to reduce the damage. Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank to slow fuel degradation Connect a trickle

Understand Automotive Diagnostic Trouble Codes Before They Damage Your Engine That little amber glow on your dashboard – the check engine light – is one of the most misunderstood signals in modern vehicle ownership. Some drivers ignore it for weeks. Others panic and assume the worst. The truth usually falls somewhere in the middle, and knowing what it actually means can save you a lot of money and stress. What Is an Automotive Diagnostic Trouble Code? An automotive diagnostic trouble code, or DTC, is a standardized alphanumeric code stored by your vehicle’s onboard computer when it detects something wrong. Think of it as your car’s way of filing a complaint report. The system behind this is called on-board diagnostics, commonly referred to as OBD-II, which became a federal requirement in the United States for all passenger vehicles manufactured after 1996. When a sensor picks up a reading outside the normal range – whether that is related to the engine, transmission, exhaust gas levels, or fuel delivery – the computer logs a DTC and often triggers the check engine light. The code itself does not tell you exactly what part to replace. It tells you where to look. How the OBD-II System Works Your vehicle has dozens of sensors spread across the chassis, powertrain, ignition system, and emissions components. These sensors constantly communicate with the car’s central computer. SAE International, the organization responsible for setting automotive industry standards, developed the protocols that govern how these codes are structured and read – including SAE J1939, which is widely used for commercial and fleet management applications. A scan tool connects to the OBD-II port, typically located under the dashboard on the driver’s side. The tool reads whatever codes the computer has stored. From there, a trained technician interprets those codes in context – checking live data, performing physical inspections, and ruling out secondary causes. Common DTCs and What They Point To Not all trouble codes are created equal. Some are urgent. Others are worth monitoring. Here is a breakdown of common code categories and what they typically signal: P0xxx codes relate to the powertrain, including the engine and transmission. These are the most common. B0xxx codes cover body systems like airbags or power windows. C0xxx codes involve the chassis, including suspension and brake control systems. U0xxx codes flag network communication issues between modules. A P0300 code, for example, points to random engine misfires – which could stem from a worn spark plug, a failing ignition system component, or even a fuel delivery problem. A P0420 code often indicates a catalytic converter issue relevant to vehicle emissions control and emissions standard compliance. Why You Should Not Ignore a DTC Ignoring a stored code is a bit like ignoring a warning from a trusted friend. The problem does not disappear – it usually gets worse. A minor sensor fault left unresolved can cascade into engine knocking, transmission slippage, or even complete component failure. Think about what happens when a fuel trim code goes unaddressed. The engine runs lean or rich for extended periods, which stresses the catalytic converter, fouls the spark plugs, and reduces fuel efficiency. What started as a small correction becomes an expensive repair. DIY Code Reading Vs. Professional Diagnosis Yes, you can buy a basic scan tool at a parts store and pull codes yourself. But reading a code and diagnosing the actual problem are two very different things. A code is a starting point, not a verdict. Professional technicians use advanced diagnostic software and live data to understand what the code is actually telling them. They check freeze frame data, test related components, and look for patterns that a basic scan tool will never reveal. This is especially important when multiple codes appear at once or when a code keeps returning after being cleared. What Happens During a Professional Diagnostic at Newnum and Sons Garage At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, diagnostics start with a full scan of your vehicle’s computer using professional-grade equipment. The technician reviews every stored and pending code, pulls live sensor data, and performs a visual inspection before recommending any repairs. Every diagnosis comes with a clear, upfront explanation of what was found and what it means for your vehicle. No pressure. No guesswork. Just honest information so you can make the right call for your car. Whether the code points to an engine issue, an exhaust system concern, or something in the electrical system, the team at Newnum and Sons has the training and tools to trace it back to the source. FAQs About Automotive Diagnostic Trouble Codes Can I drive with the check engine light on? It depends on the code. If the light is flashing, that signals an active misfire and you should stop driving and get it checked immediately. If the light is steady and the car drives normally, it is usually safe to drive briefly. Will clearing the code fix the problem? No. Clearing a DTC removes the stored code from the computer, but the underlying issue remains. The light will come back on if the problem persists. How much does a diagnostic inspection cost? Diagnostic fees vary depending on the depth of testing required. Newnum and Sons Garage provides transparent estimates before any work begins, so you always know what to expect. What Your Automotive Diagnostic Trouble Code Is Telling You A diagnostic trouble code is your vehicle’s built-in early warning system – use it. Catching a small fault early can prevent serious engine damage, costly repairs, and unexpected breakdowns.  If your check engine light is on or you have concerns about how your vehicle is running, schedule an engine repair inspection with Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN. You can reach the team directly at 765-793-3334 to get answers fast.