Newnum and Sons Garage

Loud Clunk When Shifting From Park To Drive? Here’s What It Means And How To Fix It You put the car in drive, and before you even touch the gas, you hear it, a loud clunk that rattles your confidence right along with your vehicle. It might sound alarming, and honestly, sometimes it is. But not always. That clunking noise when shifting out of park is one of the most common concerns drivers bring up. The good news is that the cause is often identifiable, and many of the fixes are straightforward. Let’s walk through what’s actually happening inside your vehicle and what you should do about it. Why You Hear a Clunk When Shifting From Park to Drive The Parking Pawl Is Doing Its Job – Sometimes Too Loudly When you shift into park, a small but strong metal pin called the parking pawl locks the output shaft of your automatic transmission in place. It’s what keeps the car from rolling when the engine is off. When you shift into drive or reverse, that pawl disengages. On a flat surface, this is usually quiet. But parking on a hill changes everything. If you park the car on an incline without using the parking brake first, the full weight of the vehicle presses down hard on the pawl. When you shift into drive, the parking pawl disengaging from that pressure produces a really loud thump or clunk. This is actually a mechanical stress issue, not a transmission issue in most cases. The fix here is simple: set the parking brake before shifting into park. Apply the brake pedal, shift into park, then engage the parking brake so the vehicle is held by the brake system, not the parking pawl. When you leave, release the brake pedal after you’ve shifted into gear. Your transmission will thank you. Worn or Broken Transmission and Engine Mounts Transmission mounts are designed to hold the transmission steady and absorb vibration as the drivetrain moves. Engine mounts do the same for the engine. When these mounts wear out or crack, there’s nothing to cushion the movement when you shift gears. The result is a clunk when shifting that feels like something dropped inside the engine bay – because something basically did move that shouldn’t have. Worn mounts allow the engine and transmission to shift physically when torque is applied, causing that familiar thump. If you notice the clunk is accompanied by other symptoms like shudder during acceleration, vibration at idle, or a clicking noise when you shift from reverse to drive, worn mounts are a likely culprit. A mechanic can inspect mounts visually and physically to check for cracks, tears, or collapsed rubber – often called a bushing failure. Driveline Components: U-Joints, CV Joints, and Axle Shafts Sometimes the clunk isn’t coming from the transmission at all. It’s coming from further down the drivetrain. U-joints, CV joints, and axle shafts all play a role in transferring torque from the transmission to the wheels. When any of these driveline components wear out or become misaligned, shifting from park to reverse or from park to drive can produce a clunk as the drivetrain takes up the slack. This is sometimes called backlash – the slight play between worn driveline parts. On an all-wheel drive vehicle, this can feel especially pronounced. If you hear the clunk most when you shift from park to reverse and then again shifting from reverse to drive, worn u-joints or CV joints are worth investigating. A driveline inspection and repair can identify exactly where the problem lies. Low or Degraded Transmission Fluid Transmission fluid keeps everything inside the transmission lubricated and helps manage hydraulic pressure for smooth gear engagement. When the fluid level is low or degraded, the torque converter and internal components don’t get the hydraulic support they need. The result can be a fairly loud clunk or delay when you shift into drive or reverse. Checking the fluid level and condition is one of the first things to do when diagnosing a clunking sound. If the fluid is dark, burnt-smelling, or the level is low, that’s a clear sign something needs attention. The Gear Selector or Control Arm Bushings Less commonly, the issue can come from a worn gear selector linkage or control arm bushings in the suspension. When these wear down, there’s looseness in the system that creates noise during transitions – like when you put the car in gear from a complete stop. If you’re hearing the clunk mostly in the cabin near the gear stick rather than underneath the vehicle, the selector linkage is worth having checked. If you also notice the steering wheel vibrating or the car may pull slightly when you shift, suspension-related wear could be contributing. What To Do When You Hear the Clunk Start with the easy stuff: Use the parking brake every time you park. Apply the brake pedal, engage the parking brake, then shift into park while the car is held by the brakes, not the pawl. Check your transmission fluid – both the fluid level and its color and smell. Pay attention to when the clunk happens – is it only from park to drive, or also from park to reverse, drive to reverse, or shifting out of park in general? Note any warning lights on the dashboard, especially anything transmission-related. If the clunk persists or gets worse, it’s time for a professional look. Advanced vehicle computer diagnostics can help identify transmission-related fault codes that don’t always trigger a dashboard light. You might also want to review the most common car repairs and services to better understand what kind of work might be involved. For more serious concerns, getting professional transmission repair services early can prevent a manageable repair from becoming a costly overhaul. It’s also worth knowing how long car repairs typically take so you can plan accordingly. Don’t Ignore the Noise: Get Your Transmission Checked A slight clunk when you shift from park to drive isn’t always a crisis,

7 Front Axle Seal Leak Symptoms You Shouldn’t Ignore If you’ve noticed a strange spot on your driveway or your vehicle just doesn’t feel quite right, a leaking front axle seal might be the culprit. It’s one of those problems that’s easy to overlook at first but can turn into a costly repair if left alone too long. Knowing what to look for can save you from a much bigger headache down the road. What Does a Front Axle Seal Actually Do? The front axle seal keeps the gear oil or fluid inside your axle housing where it belongs. It wraps tightly around the axle shaft and prevents fluid from seeping out around the seal area. When that seal wears down or gets damaged, fluid starts to leak, and that’s when the trouble begins. Vehicles with four-wheel drive are especially prone to this kind of issue because of the added stress placed on the front axle components. 7 Symptoms of a Leaking Front Axle Seal A Puddle or Drip Under Your Vehicle This is often the first noticeable sign. If you spot a reddish-brown or dark oily puddle pooling on the ground beneath the front of your vehicle, an axle seal leak is a strong possibility. Don’t assume it’s just water. Check the color and consistency; gear oil or axle fluid tends to be thicker and darker than other leaks. Greasy Buildup Around the Wheel Take a look at the inside of your wheel and tire. If you see a greasy or moist film coating the area, fluid may be dripping from a a failing seal and working its way toward the wheel. This kind of leakage can also contaminate your brake shoes if it reaches the brake system, which makes it a safety concern, not just a mechanical one. Low Fluid Level in the Differential or Transmission Another symptom to watch for is an unexplained drop in fluid level. If you or your mechanic notice the transmission or differential fluid level keeps dropping, a slow seal leak could be the cause. A leaky seal won’t always pour fluid out fast. Sometimes it just allows a slow, steady drain over time. Whining or Humming Noise While Driving When an axle seal is leaking, and the diff runs low on lubrication, the gears inside the differential housing start to wear unevenly. That friction can create a whining or humming noise that gets louder as you accelerate. If you hear this noise and it seems to come from the front drivetrain area, get it checked as soon as possible. Visible Wetness Around the Axle Shaft Seal A visual inspection can reveal a lot. If you or a technician lift the vehicle using jack stands, it becomes much easier to spot wetness or residue around the axle shaft seal. Even a small amount of seepage around the seal is worth addressing before it gets worse. Vibration or Handling Changes Front axle seal failure can sometimes allow fluid to reach the CV joint or affect the suspension and drivetrain components. This may cause subtle vibrations or a shift in how the vehicle handles during turns. If you’ve noticed your car pulling or feeling less stable, a compromised seal might be part of the issue. You’ll also want to rule out problems that might require suspension and brake system repairs at the same time. Burning Smell While Driving When transmission fluid or gear oil leaks onto hot components, it can overheat and burn. If you catch a faint burning smell while driving and can’t trace it to an obvious source, this is worth investigating right away. This symptom, combined with any of the others above, suggests the severity of the seal failure may be more serious than it first appears. What Happens If You Ignore It? Ignoring an axle seal leak doesn’t just risk a messy driveway. Over time, you may face differential or transmission damage that requires a full rebuild or component replacement, far more expensive than a simple seal replacement. Understanding what it means when your car is leaking oil can help you recognize early warning signs before they escalate. If your axle seal is leaking, it’s also smart to have your technician inspect the pinion seal, diff cover gasket, and any nearby bolt connections for additional leakage points. A thorough check can prevent multiple problems from compounding. For issues that go beyond a single seal, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage offers professional driveline repair services and expert transmission repair services to get your vehicle back in solid shape. Staying ahead of these repairs is also much easier with routine preventative maintenance services that catch small issues before they need to be replaced or fixed immediately. Conclusion A front axle seal leak is the kind of problem that starts small but gets expensive fast. If you recognize any of these seven symptoms, don’t wait to have it looked at.  At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the team is ready to inspect your vehicle, give you an honest diagnosis, and walk you through your options. Call us at 765-793-3334 to schedule your appointment today.

7 Rear Axle Seal Leak Symptoms You Shouldn’t Ignore Your vehicle talks to you. Sometimes it’s a sound, sometimes a smell, and sometimes it’s a puddle under your truck that tells you something is wrong. A rear axle seal leak is one of those problems that’s easy to overlook early on, but can escalate into a costly repair if you wait too long. Here’s what to watch for. What Does a Rear Axle Seal Do? The axle seal keeps differential fluid contained inside the axle housing. It wraps around the axle shaft and forms a tight rubber barrier that prevents gear oil from escaping. When that seal wears out or gets damaged, fluid starts to seep out, and things go downhill from there. If you’re wondering what it means when your car is leaking oil or fluid, it’s worth understanding what it means if your car is leaking oil before assuming it’s a minor issue. 7 Signs Your Rear Axle Seal Is Leaking Oily Residue Near the Wheel or Tire One of the first signs is an oily film or drip near the inside edge of the rear wheel. You might notice a wet spot behind the tire or a dark stain on your driveway. This is often gear oil leaking past the wheel seal. Low Differential Fluid Levels If a mechanic checks your axle or differential during a routine inspection and finds the fluid is leaking or lower than it should be, a worn seal is often the culprit. Don’t ignore this. Low differential fluid leads to increased friction and heat inside the housing, which damages gears and bearings quickly. Whining Noises from the Rear Axle A leaking axle seal doesn’t just cause an oil leak. It also starves the axle bearing of lubrication. When the axle bearing runs dry, you’ll start hearing whining noises or a grinding sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. In severe cases, the bearing can seize completely. Vibration While Driving Bearing damage caused by a seal leak can also show up as abnormal vibration through the floor or rear of the car. This vibration tends to get worse at higher speeds and shouldn’t be dismissed as a tire or wheel balancing problem. Brake Contamination This one is serious. When axle fluid leaks past the backing plate and into the brake drum, it contaminates the brake shoes and friction material. This is called brake contamination, and it dramatically reduces braking performance. If you notice your rear brakes feel soft or uneven, get them inspected promptly. For help with this, check out Newnum and Sons Garage’s suspension and brake system repairs. Smell of Burning Gear Oil Leaking gear oil that hits a hot axle housing or exhaust component will burn and produce a distinct smell. If you notice something mechanical and sharp coming from the rear of your truck after driving, that could be axle fluid burning off a hot surface. Visible Metal Particles or Metal Debris In advanced cases, you might find metal particles or metal debris in the fluid that drains out. This is a sign that the gears and bearings inside have already started to wear abnormally. At this stage, replacing the seal alone may not be enough. What Happens If You Ignore a Rear Axle Seal Leak? Letting a rear axle seal leak go unchecked is a bad idea. The differential can overheat, gear teeth can wear prematurely, and in the worst cases, the axle can seize. What might have been a simple seal replacement turns into a much larger job with far higher repair costs. Heavy loads and high mileage can cause axle seals to wear faster, especially on trucks and older vehicles that see regular towing or hauling. Debris and humidity can also degrade the rubber seal over time. How Is a Rear Axle Seal Fixed? A technician will disassemble the axle end, remove the old seal, inspect the axle bearing for damage, and install new seals. Sometimes the axle bearing needs to be replaced as well. If there’s brake backing plate contamination, the brake drum and brake shoes may need attention too. For more context on what this kind of job involves, browse the most common car repairs explained. Newnum and Sons Garage offers professional driveline repair services and comprehensive auto repair services to handle exactly this kind of auto problem from inspection to installation. Conclusion A rear axle seal leak might start as a small drip, but it can quickly become a serious mechanical issue. If you’re seeing any of these symptoms, don’t wait. Bring your vehicle into Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, and let their experienced technicians take a look.  Early detection saves money, protects your braking system, and keeps your vehicle reliable. Call 765-793-3334 or visit newnumsgarage.com to schedule your inspection today.

Differential Grinding Noise: Causes, Fixes, and When to *Actually* Worry That grinding noise coming from under your vehicle is hard to ignore. It can start as a faint hum, grow into a noticeable growl, and eventually become a sound that makes every trip feel like a gamble. If the noise seems to be coming from the middle or rear of your vehicle, your differential could be the source of the problem. Understanding what the differential does, why it makes noise, and what to do about it can save you from a costly breakdown down the road. This guide breaks it all down in plain language. What Does the Differential Actually Do? The differential is a set of gears that allows your wheels to spin at different speeds. This matters most when you turn a corner: the outer wheels need to travel farther than the inner wheels, so they have to spin faster. The differential makes that possible without causing your tires to drag, skip, or fight each other. Most rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a differential at the back axle. All-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive vehicles typically have one at both axles, and sometimes a center differential as well. Front-wheel-drive vehicles use what is called a transaxle, which combines the transmission and differential functions into a single unit. When the differential is working correctly, you probably never think about it. When it starts to fail, you notice it fast. What Does a Differential Grinding Noise Sound Like? Differential noises can vary, but a grinding noise typically sounds like metal rubbing or scraping against other metal. You might also notice it described as a rumble, a howl, or a whine, depending on the stage of wear. Some drivers notice the noise only at certain speeds. Others hear it constantly. In some cases, the grinding only shows up during turns, which is a strong indicator that the differential is involved rather than another component. Here are some common sound patterns to pay attention to: Grinding during turns often points to worn spider gears inside the differential Constant grinding or rumbling – may indicate worn bearings Whining that changes with speed – often linked to ring and pinion gear wear Clunking when accelerating or decelerating – could suggest gear backlash or worn U-joints These patterns are not universal, and many drivetrain components can mimic differential sounds. That is why a proper diagnosis matters more than guessing. Common Causes of a Differential Grinding Noise Low or Contaminated Differential Fluid This is the most common cause of differential noise, and it is also the most preventable. Differential fluid lubricates all the gears and bearings inside the housing. When the fluid level drops due to a leak or when the fluid breaks down over time, metal parts start grinding against each other without adequate protection. Differential fluid does not last forever. Over time, it becomes thick, dark, and less effective. If it has never been changed on your vehicle, there is a good chance it is due or overdue. Worn Bearings Bearings support the rotating shafts inside the differential. When they wear out, you typically hear a rumbling or grinding noise that may change in pitch or volume as your speed changes. Bearing failure can happen gradually, but once it starts, it usually gets worse quickly. Driving on worn bearings puts stress on everything around them, including the ring and pinion gears. What starts as a bearing problem can turn into a much larger repair if it is not addressed early. Ring and Pinion Gear Wear The ring and pinion gears are the primary gears inside the differential. They transfer power from the driveshaft to the axles. These gears are precision components, and when they wear unevenly or sustain damage, they produce a whining or grinding sound. Ring and pinion wear is sometimes caused by poor lubrication, but it can also result from aggressive driving habits, off-road use, or towing loads beyond the vehicle’s rated capacity. Worn or Damaged Spider Gears Spider gears are the small gears inside the differential that allow each wheel to rotate at a different speed. When they wear out, you may notice grinding or clunking, specifically when making turns. This happens because the spider gears are under the most stress during cornering. Spider gear damage is more common in vehicles that have been used for towing or have experienced repeated hard acceleration. Damaged U-Joints or CV Joints While not technically part of the differential itself, worn universal joints (U-joints) or constant velocity joints (CV joints) can produce grinding and clunking sounds that feel like they are coming from the differential. These joints connect the driveshaft to the differential or axle, and they wear out with mileage and use. If your vehicle’s grinding noise gets worse during acceleration or comes with vibration, the joints are worth inspecting along with the differential. Is It the Differential or Something Else? Differential grinding noises are easy to confuse with other drivetrain and suspension problems. Here is a quick breakdown of what else could be causing the noise: Wheel bearings produce a rumbling or humming noise that often changes when you shift your weight side to side while driving. The sound typically comes from one side of the vehicle rather than the center. Brake issues can cause grinding that feels similar, but brake-related grinding is usually more prominent when you apply the brakes rather than during freeroll. Transmission problems sometimes produce grinding or whining sounds, especially during acceleration or gear changes. If you suspect this, it is worth having the transmission inspected to rule out transmission-related causes before focusing on the differential. CV axle wear can also create grinding and clunking, especially during sharp turns at low speeds, which can feel similar to a differential issue in front-wheel-drive vehicles. The safest approach is to have the vehicle inspected by a technician who can trace the noise to its actual source. How Serious Is a Differential Grinding Noise? The short answer: it depends on how long you wait to address

What Causes Driveshaft Vibration and How to Fix It Fast You’re cruising down the highway, and suddenly your floorboard starts buzzing, your seat shakes, and something just feels off. That unsettling rumble is often driveshaft vibration, and it’s one of those problems that tends to get worse, not better, if you ignore it. The good news is that once you understand what’s causing it, the fix is usually straightforward. Let’s break it down. What Is a Driveshaft and What Does It Do? The driveshaft is the rotating tube that transfers power from your transmission to your differential, which then sends that power to your wheels. In rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks, it’s a critical link in the drivetrain. In four-wheel-drive vehicles, a transfer case splits power between the front and rear axles using multiple driveshafts. When the driveshaft is installed correctly and everything is balanced, you won’t feel a thing. When something goes wrong, your vehicle will let you know. Common Causes of Driveshaft Vibration Worn or Failing U-Joints The universal joint, also called a u-joint or cardan joint, connects the drive shaft to the transmission output shaft and the differential yoke. These joints allow the shaft to move up and down with your rear suspension while still spinning smoothly. When a u-joint wears out, it develops play in the yoke ears. This causes the driveshaft to wobble as it spins, producing a vibration that pulses twice per revolution of the shaft. You might also hear a clunking noise during acceleration or deceleration. Replacing worn u joints is one of the most common driveline repairs a shop will perform. Missing or Broken Balance Weights Driveshafts are precision-balanced from the factory using small weights welded to the driveshaft tube. If one of those balance weights falls off, or if broken tack welds allow a weight to shift, the shaft becomes uneven. Think of it like a tire that’s out of balance. The heavier side rotates faster through its arc, and the whole assembly starts to vibrate. This type of vibration is often called transverse vibration, and it typically gets worse as speed increases. A shop can rebalance the shaft by attaching new weights to the correct position along the rotating centerline. Damaged or Dented Shaft Tube Even a small dent in the middle of the tube can throw off the driveshaft’s balance and cause vibrations you’ll feel through the floor. Road debris, a curb strike, or damage to the driveshaft from bottoming out can all do this. Sometimes the damage is obvious; other times it takes a close inspection to spot a kink or deformation. If there’s significant damage to the shaft, replacement is usually the safest call. A bent or dented tube can fail due to critical speed issues, where vibration causes the driveshaft to flex uncontrollably at high rotational velocity. Worn Slip Yoke or Slip Joint The slip yoke or slip joint allows the driveshaft to change length slightly as your suspension moves. Over time, the slip splines inside this joint wear down. When that happens, the driveshaft can develop a wobble or kink at the transmission end. This often shows up as a vibration that appears during light throttle or when you shift into overdrive. Misaligned Driveline Angles Every driveshaft operates at an angle. There are correct driveline angles designed to keep the velocity of rotation consistent from one end to the other. When those angles are wrong, usually because of a suspension lift, a collapsed mount, or rear-end sag, the joints and the driveshaft experience uneven torque loads. Misaligned angles are particularly tricky because the vibration caused can mimic other problems. Shops use special tools to measure the operating angle at each end of the shaft and bring them back into phase with each other.  If you’ve recently had suspension or rear suspension work done and now feel a buzz, this could be the culprit. It’s also worth reading more about the causes of car shaking at high speeds to rule out other contributing factors. CV Joint Wear Some vehicles use a constant velocity (CV) joint instead of a traditional U-joint setup. These joints keep rotating smoothly across a wider range of angles, but they wear out too. A failing CV joint often produces a vibration that changes under load or during turns. How to Diagnose Drive Shaft Vibrations Most shops start by test-driving the vehicle and noting exactly when the vibration problems appear. Does it happen at 60 mph? Only under acceleration? Does it go away at certain speeds? From there, a technician will inspect the driveshaft visually, check for play in every u-joint and flange connection, look for missing balance weights, and measure driveline angles. Advanced vehicle computer diagnostics can also help identify whether something loose in another system is causing the vibration rather than the shaft itself. If the driveshaft is rotating correctly but vibration persists, they may also check the pinion yoke, the differential, or even the transmission for related issues. Professional transmission repair can sometimes resolve vibrations mistakenly blamed on the driveshaft. When Should You Get It Checked? If you notice a vibration that gets worse with speed, clunking during gear changes, or a shudder during acceleration, don’t wait. A driveshaft spinning out of balance puts stress on every connected component. Poor driveline angles can accelerate wear on u-joints, axle seals, and even your brakes. Check out the available suspension and brake repair options if you suspect related wear. You can also explore the full range of driveline repair services to understand what a complete inspection covers. Conclusion Driveshaft vibration is not something to push through or ignore. Whether it’s a worn universal joint, missing balance weights, a damaged shaft tube, or misaligned driveline angles, each cause has a clear solution when caught early.  The team at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, is ready to diagnose the problem honestly and get your vehicle back to running smoothly. Call 765-793-3334 or visit newnumsgarage.com to schedule your inspection today.

CV Joint Clicking When Turning? Here’s What It Means and How to Fix It If you hear clicking when you make a turn, your car is trying to tell you something. That sound is not random, and it is not something to ignore. In most cases, a clicking noise while turning points directly to a problem with your CV joint, and the sooner you address it, the better. What Is a CV Joint and What Does It Do? CV stands for constant-velocity. A CV joint is part of the axle assembly that transfers power from the transmission to the wheels while allowing the axle shaft to flex and rotate at different angles. This is what makes it possible to steer smoothly without losing torque or power to the wheels. Most front-wheel-drive vehicles rely heavily on these joints. The outer joints handle the sharpest angles, which is why they tend to wear out first, especially during sharp turns. Why Is There a Clicking Sound When Turning? The most common cause of a clicking sound when turning is a worn or damaged CV joint. When the joint loses proper lubrication, it cannot transfer torque smoothly, and that is when the clicking or popping starts. Here is what typically happens. The protective boot around the joint, called the CV boot, can crack over time, allowing grease to escape. Without grease on the inside of the joint, metal parts grind against each other. That grinding is what creates the noticeable clicking or knocking sounds you hear. A CV joint clicking issue gets louder as the damage progresses. At first, it may only be a faint sound when turning your vehicle at low speed. Over time, it can become a constant and unsafe noise even during normal driving. Common Signs of a Failing CV Joint Knowing the signs of a failing CV joint can save you from a more expensive repair down the road. Beyond the clicking noise itself, here are other warning signs to watch for: Vibration while driving – A failing CV joint can cause vibration that is felt through the steering wheel, especially when you accelerate. Grease leaks near the tire – If you notice grease on the inside edge of your tire or wheel, it likely means the boot has torn, and grease is escaping. Clunking during acceleration – A bad CV joint may produce knocking sounds when you accelerate from a stop, as the joint struggles under torque load. Difficulty steering smoothly – A worn CV joint can affect how your car responds when you steer, making handling feel loose or unpredictable. If you are also experiencing shaking at higher speeds, it could point to related drivetrain issues. Learn more about why your car shakes at high speeds to understand the full picture. Can You Drive With a Clicking CV Axle? Technically, you can drive on a failing CV axle for a short period, but it is not recommended. The joint will continue to deteriorate, and if it fails completely, you could lose control of your vehicle. A broken half shaft can leave you stranded and cause damage to surrounding suspension and drivetrain components. The clicking noises when turning are a clear indication that the joint needs replacement sooner rather than later. How Is a CV Joint Repaired? A skilled technician will inspect the axle shaft, boot, and joint to determine the extent of the damage. In many cases, if the boot is the only issue and the joint itself shows no internal damage, a boot replacement may be enough. If the joint is worn or the entire CV axle is compromised, a full axle replacement using OEM-quality parts is the right call. For professional driveline repair services or a suspension and brake system inspection, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage is ready to diagnose and repair the issue properly. Regular inspections are the best way to prevent small problems from becoming big ones. Routine maintenance that includes checking the CV boot and axle for signs of wear is one of the most common car repairs and fixes covered in our guide to the most common car repairs and fixes. For a full look at everything we handle under one roof, explore our comprehensive auto repair services. Conclusion A clicking sound when turning is not just annoying; it is a warning sign you should not put off. A failing CV joint affects how your vehicle transfers power, handles corners, and keeps you safe on the road. The earlier you catch it, the simpler and less costly the fix.  If you hear clicking and want a straight answer, bring your vehicle to Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN. Call us at 765-793-3334 and let our team take a look before it gets worse.

10 Common Check Engine Light Causes You Shouldn’t Ignore That orange light on your dashboard can make your stomach drop. Is it serious? Can you keep driving? Should you pull over right now? The check engine light is one of the most misunderstood warning signals in any vehicle, and ignoring it is rarely a good idea. The truth is, the check engine light may indicate something as simple as a loose gas cap or something far more serious hiding under the hood. Either way, your car is trying to tell you something. This guide breaks down the 10 most common reasons your check engine light turns on, so you know exactly what you might be dealing with. What Does the Check Engine Light Mean? Your vehicle uses an onboard diagnostics system to monitor dozens of engine and emission control components. When one of those components sends a signal outside its normal range, the computer triggers the check engine light on your dashboard. Sometimes the check engine light comes on steadily. Other times, it may flash. A flashing check engine light is a signal that something more urgent is happening, usually a misfire that could cause engine damage if left unaddressed. If the light is flashing while the car is driving, it is best to reduce speed and get to a shop as soon as possible. Not sure why your check engine light comes on and off intermittently? That pattern often points to an issue that is developing but not yet constant. You can read more about why your check engine light comes on and off to better understand what that behavior means. 10 Common Causes of the Check Engine Light Loose or Damaged Gas Cap One of the most common reasons the check engine light turns on is surprisingly simple: a loose gas cap. The gas cap seals the fuel tank and keeps fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. When it is loose, cracked, or missing, the emission control system detects a pressure drop and triggers the light. Tightening the gas cap is the first thing to check when the light comes on. If the light does not go away after a day or two of driving, the cap itself may be faulty and need replacing. A new gas cap is one of the cheapest fixes you will find. Failing Catalytic Converter The catalytic converter is part of your exhaust system and is responsible for converting harmful gases like carbon monoxide into less harmful emissions before they exit through the exhaust pipe. When it starts to fail, your car may experience poor engine performance, reduced fuel efficiency, and a noticeably worse smell from the exhaust. A failing catalytic converter is not a minor issue; it can cause serious long-term damage if ignored. Most catalytic converter failures are caused by underlying problems like faulty spark plugs or a bad oxygen sensor, so getting a full diagnosis matters. Faulty Oxygen Sensor The oxygen sensor monitors how much unburned oxygen is in your exhaust gas and helps the engine computer balance the air-fuel ratio. A faulty oxygen sensor can lead to reduced fuel efficiency, increased emissions, and engine performance problems over time. Most vehicles have two or more oxygen sensors. If one fails, the check engine light will turn on and store an error code. Replacing a bad oxygen sensor promptly helps protect other components like the catalytic converter from early wear. Faulty Spark Plugs or Ignition Coils Faulty spark plugs are a surprisingly common cause of the check engine light turning on. Spark plugs ignite the fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber, and when they wear out or fail, you may notice a misfire, rough idle, or sluggish acceleration. The check engine light may flash during a misfire to alert you that internal engine stress is occurring. Ignition coils work alongside the spark plugs as part of the ignition system. A bad ignition coil can cause the same symptoms. Replacing spark plugs on schedule is one of the simplest ways to avoid unexpected engine repairs. If you are noticing any of these symptoms, check out the common signs your car needs a tune-up for a broader look at what your vehicle might need. Mass Airflow Sensor Failure The mass airflow sensor measures how much air enters the engine so the computer can deliver the right amount of fuel. When the mass airflow sensor malfunctions, the engine may run too rich or too lean, leading to the check engine light coming on along with poor engine performance and reduced fuel economy. Dirt and debris are the most common causes of mass airflow sensor failure. Replacing the air filter on schedule helps extend the life of this sensor and keeps airflow clean and accurate. Vacuum Leak Your engine relies on a network of hoses to manage pressure and airflow throughout the fuel system and intake. A vacuum leak happens when one of those hoses cracks, disconnects, or deteriorates. When unmetered air enters the engine through a leak, it throws off the air-fuel ratio and can trigger the check engine light. Symptoms of a vacuum leak include a rough idle, hissing sounds from the engine bay, and erratic RPMs. Diagnosing a vacuum leak can be tricky since the hoses are often tucked out of sight, which is why professional diagnostic tools make a real difference here. Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Malfunction The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve reduces harmful emission levels by routing a portion of exhaust gas back into the intake manifold. When this valve gets clogged or fails, it can cause engine knocking, rough idling, and increased emissions, all of which can trigger the check engine light. EGR valve issues often require cleaning or replacement. Ignoring this malfunction can negatively affect fuel efficiency and cause the vehicle to fail an emissions inspection. Dead or Weak Battery A weak or failing battery can cause various issues that set off the check engine light. The vehicle’s computer and sensor systems depend on a

Why Does My Car Shake When I Brake? Common Causes and How to Fix Them Fast You are driving through Covington, IN. Everything feels normal, and then you hit the brakes. Suddenly, the steering wheel starts to wobble, the brake pedal feels shaky, and your car shakes when braking. It is unsettling, especially if it happens at highway speeds. If you have caught yourself thinking, “Why does my car shake when I brake?” you are not alone. There are several common reasons why your car might do this. The good news is that most brake-related vibration issues can be fixed quickly once you know what to look for. Let’s break it down in plain English so you can understand what is happening behind the wheel. What Does It Mean When Your Car Shakes When Braking? When you press the brake, your brake system uses friction to slow your vehicle. In disc brakes, brake pads clamp against metal discs called brake rotors. That friction creates the force needed to slow the car. If something in that system is uneven, loose, or worn, it can cause vibrations. You may feel a vibration in the brake pedal, the steering wheel, or even through the entire car. In some cases, the car is vibrating only during brake application. In others, shaking while braking can get worse over time. One of the most common signs is brake pedal pulsation. That rhythmic pulsation happens because the rotor surface is not perfectly smooth or flat anymore. Warped or Uneven Brake Rotors – A Common Cause One of the most common causes of a car shake when I brake is a problem with the rotor. Specifically, braking is warped brake rotors. How Brake Rotors Become “Warped” Brake rotors are metal discs attached to each wheel hub. Over time, heat and pressure can cause them to wear down over time or develop thickness variation. This means parts of the rotor are slightly thicker or thinner than others. When brake pads clamp against a rotor that is not evenly flat, it leads to vibrations. Technically, what many people call “warped” rotors is often excessive runout or uneven disc thickness. This uneven surface can: Cause brake pedal pulsation Cause vibrations that become stronger at high speeds Make the steering wheel shake during braking Front rotors are especially prone to this because most of the vehicle’s weight shifts forward when you apply the brakes. If the front rotors have too much runout, you will likely feel the vibration in the steering wheel. In some cases, the fix is simple resurfacing. In others, your technician may recommend new rotors or replace the rotors entirely. Worn-Out Brake Pads and Brake Components Brake pads are designed to grip the rotor and create friction. But brake pads wear with normal driving. When brake pads wear unevenly, or you have worn-out brake pads, they do not grip the rotor evenly. That uneven grip can also cause shaking or a brake pedal pulsation. Sometimes the issue is not just the pads but other brake components, such as: A sticking brake caliper Rust or corrosion on the rotor or pad surface Worn slide pins in the brake caliper If a caliper cannot move freely, the pads can drag on the rotor. This constant drag creates excess heat, leading to vibrations and uneven wear on the rotors and pads. Pads can also cause high-pitched noise, especially when they are thin. If you notice noise along with shaking while braking, it is time for an inspection. Tire and Wheel Issues That Cause Shaking Not every brake vibration starts in the brake system. Sometimes the real culprit is the tire or wheel. Uneven tire wear can cause your vehicle to shake. If the issue only appears when slowing down from highway speeds, a tire balance or wheel alignment problem might be involved. Loose lug nuts can also cause a wobble that feels like a brake issue. If a wheel is not seated properly on the wheel hub, you may feel a vibration when you hit the brakes. A worn wheel bearing, which is a type of bearing (mechanical) that reduces friction in the wheel, can also cause shaking. Over time, wear and corrosion can damage it, leading to extra movement in the wheel. That extra play can cause vibrations that become more noticeable during braking. If you have questions about why your car shakes at high speeds, it is worth having both the tire and brake systems inspected together. Suspension Problems That Feel Like Brake Issues Your car suspension and suspension components play a huge role in stability. If you have worn suspension components, such as a damaged strut, control arm bushings, or a loose bushing, it can amplify any small vibration. A damaged suspension or worn suspension components can cause your vehicle to shake and may even cause it to pull to one side when braking. Driving on rough roads around Covington, IN, can speed up wear in the suspension system. Damaged suspension parts may also cause uneven tire wear, which then feeds back into more shaking. When your car might be shaking while braking, it is often smart to check both the brakes and the car suspension together. If you suspect a deeper issue, Newnum and Sons Garage offers thorough suspension and brake services to address the issue correctly the first time. Problems with Brake Drums or Rear Brakes While most modern vehicles use disc brakes in the front, some still use drum brakes in the rear. If your brake drums are out of round or the rotors or drums are uneven, you may feel a subtle pulsation in the pedal. Rear rotors can also develop runout similar to front rotors. Unlike disc brake systems, drum brake systems house the braking components inside a drum. If there is excessive wear or corrosion, it can lead to a shaky feel during braking. Can Brake Fluid or ABS Cause Shaking? In rare cases, air or contamination in the brake fluid can

Steering Wheel Shudder? Here’s What It Means and How to Fix It Fast You’re cruising down the road, everything feels normal, and then it happens. The steering wheel starts to vibrate in your hands. Maybe it is subtle at first. Maybe it feels like your whole car shakes. If you have noticed your steering wheel shaking, you are right to pay attention. A steering wheel shudder is not just annoying. It could be a sign that something in your vehicle needs attention, especially if the vibration gets worse at higher speeds or when you press the brake pedal. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, we help drivers diagnose and fix these issues every week. Let’s break down the most common reasons your steering wheel shakes and what you should do next. What a Steering Wheel Shudder Usually Means Your steering wheel is directly connected to critical parts of your car, including the suspension system, braking system, and drivetrain. When something is worn, loose, or out of alignment, that disturbance can travel through the Wheel and into your hands as vibration. Some common causes of a shaky steering wheel include: Tire issues such as uneven tire wear or unbalanced Warped brake rotors Worn suspension system components like ball joints or tie rod ends Failing wheel bearings Problems in the Axle or drivetrain Each of these affects automobile handling differently, which is why the details of when and how the steering wheel vibrates matter. Steering Wheel Shake at Higher Speeds If your car shakes mostly when driving at higher speeds, especially around 60 mph, tires are a common reason. Tires Out of Balance or Uneven Wear Tires out of balance can create vibrations when driving at higher speeds. Even a small imbalance can make the steering wheel shake while driving on a smooth road surface. You may also notice: Uneven tire wear Flat spots from hard braking Debris is stuck in the tread Low pressure or tires that are not properly inflated When tires are properly inflated and the tire balance is corrected, the vibration often disappears quickly. If you regularly drive over rough road conditions or hit potholes, it can throw off that balance. If you are able to get them rotated and balanced on schedule, you reduce wear and improve speed stability. This is one of the most common reasons your steering wheel develops vibrations when driving at higher speeds. If you want to learn more about high-speed shaking, check out these causes of car shaking at high speeds. Steering Wheel Is Shaking When Braking If your steering wheel is shaking mainly when you press the brake pedal, your braking system is the likely source. Warped Brake Rotors Most vehicles today use a disc brake setup. When you press the brake pedal, the brake pads press against a spinning rotor to slow the wheel. If the rotor surface becomes uneven due to heat or wear, you will feel a pulse or steering wheel shake. Warped brake rotors cause shaking as a result of inconsistent contact between the brake pad and the rotor. That force moves through the steering system and into your hands. In some cases, a sticking brake caliper can overheat one side of the rotor, making the problem worse. If your wheel is shaking when braking, it is smart to stop driving aggressively and schedule an inspection soon. Our team at Newnum and Sons Garage offers professional suspension and brake repair services to address these exact issues. Brake Pedal Pulsing If you also feel pulsation in the brake pedal under your foot, it strengthens the case for rotor or brake pad wear. A qualified technician can measure rotor thickness and determine whether resurfacing or replacement is needed. Steering Wheel Vibrations at Low Speeds If your steering wheel starts shaking at low speeds or even at lower speeds in town, you might be dealing with suspension or steering components. Worn Ball Joints or Tie Rod Ends Ball joints and tie rod ends help maintain the proper angle and alignment of your car’s suspension. When they wear out, your vehicle may wander, feel loose, or even pull slightly to one side while driving straight. This can make the steering feel unpredictable. Over time, the shaking steering wheel becomes more obvious, especially on uneven road surfaces. Wheel Bearings or Axle Issues Worn wheel bearings, also known as bearing (mechanical) units, can create noise and vibration that changes with speed. If ignored, they can affect the axle and overall drivetrain performance. In some cases, driveline problems can also cause your steering wheel to vibrate. Our driveline repair and drivetrain service can pinpoint whether the issue is deeper in the drivetrain. When the Car Shakes All the Time If your car shakes constantly, not just at high speeds or during braking, there may be broader potential causes. These possible causes include: A damaged engine mount is allowing excess engine movement Bent wheels after driving over potholes Significant tire issues combined with poor alignment Problems in the suspension system An engine mount that fails can let the engine shift more than it should, sending vibration through the frame and into the car controls. That can make the steering feel unstable even when parked. If the steering wheel may be shaking along with the seat or floorboard, the issue could be more widespread than just the steering components. Alignment Problems and Pulling to One Side Sometimes the steering wheel vibrates, and the car begins pulling to one side. That is often a sign you need an alignment. Hitting potholes, curbs, or debris in the road can shift wheel angles. When alignment is off, it affects tire wear and automobile handling. Over time, that uneven wear leads to more shaking or vibrations. Routine Inspection after major bumps can help prevent long-term damage. When Should You Stop Driving? Not every vibration means you must stop driving immediately. However, you should visit a mechanic as soon as possible if: The shaking gets worse quickly You

Timing Belt vs Timing Chain: Which One Saves You Money And Headaches? If you have ever asked yourself, ” What’s the difference between a timing belt and a timing chain? You are not alone. It is one of the most common questions drivers have when they learn about their engine. And usually, the next question is even more important: which one costs less over time and causes fewer problems? Understanding the difference between timing components can save you major repair bills and serious engine damage. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, we regularly help drivers learn the difference so they can make smart decisions about maintenance instead of reacting to a breakdown. Let’s break down the timing belt vs timing chain debate in plain English. What Does the Timing System Actually Do? Before comparing parts, it helps to understand the timing system as a whole. Inside your engine, the crankshaft and camshaft must spin in perfect sync. The crankshaft moves the pistons up and down. The camshaft opens and closes each valve – often a poppet valve in a typical four-stroke engine – to let air and fuel in and exhaust out. That coordination is called engine timing. Whether your vehicle uses a timing belt or a timing chain, its job is the same: Keep the camshaft and crankshaft synchronized Maintain proper timing of valves and pistons Prevent catastrophic engine damage If the system fails, valves and pistons can collide. In an interference engine, that usually means bent valve components, damaged pistons, and a large repair bill. Now let’s talk about the key differences. Timing Belt: What You Should Know A timing belt is a reinforced rubber belt (mechanical belt type) with teeth that grip gears and sprockets. Timing belts are made from reinforced rubber and synthetic fibers to handle heat and tension. Many older vehicles and even popular models like certain versions of the Honda Accord use a timing belt. How It Works The belt wraps around: The crankshaft gear The camshaft gear An idler pulley A tensioner to maintain proper tension In many timing belt setups, the water pump is also driven by the belt. That means when you are replacing a timing belt, you often replace the pump at the same time to avoid extra cost later. Pros of a Timing Belt Quieter operation with less noise Lower upfront cost for belt replacement Lightweight design Cons of a Timing Belt Wears out over time Has specific service intervals If a belt breaks, it can cause severe engine damage Most manufacturers recommend timing belt replacement around 100k miles, depending on the vehicle. Since timing belts wear from heat and friction, replacing a timing belt before failure is critical. If you drive an older car with a belt and skip maintenance, the pain of a snapped belt can be sudden and expensive. Timing Chain: Built for the Long Haul? A timing chain looks similar to a bike chain. It is metal and runs inside the engine, lubricated by motor oil. Unlike belts, chains are designed to last much longer, and in many modern engines, they are expected to last the lifetime of the engine. How It Works The chain connects the crankshaft gear to the camshaft gear using metal links. It rides along sprockets and relies on chain guides and tensioners to stay aligned. Because it runs internally, lubrication from regular oil changes is essential to reduce wear. Pros of a Timing Chain Timing chains last longer than belts More durable compared to timing belts Often no scheduled chain replacement Cons of a Timing Chain Heavier and slightly noisier More expensive to replace The complexity of the job makes labor costs higher Although timing chains last longer, they can stretch over time. Worn guides and tensioners may also fail. If that happens, replacing a timing chain can be costly because of the complexity of the job. Timing Belt vs Timing Chain: The Real Cost Comparison When customers in Covington, IN ask about timing belt vs timing chain, they are usually focused on overall cost. Here is the reality. Short-Term Cost A timing belt replacement is typically less expensive than replacing a timing chain. The parts are cheaper, and access is often easier depending on the engine layout, such as an OHC V6 engine. Long-Term Cost Timing chains last longer and can sometimes run for the lifetime of the engine. That means no regular belt service intervals to worry about. However, if a chain fails, chain replacement is usually more expensive to replace than a typical belt service. So the chain vs belt decision is not about which is “better.” It is about understanding the difference between a timing system design and planning accordingly. What’s the Difference in Risk? Let’s talk about risk. If your engine is a non-interference design, a failed belt may not destroy internal components. But many engines are interference engine designs. In those engines, if a belt breaks or a plastic timing chain guide fails, pistons can hit valves. That results in: Bent valves Damaged pistons Possible gasket failure Severe engine damage This is why regular maintenance matters so much. Why Maintenance Matters More Than Design Here is something many drivers do not realize. Since timing components rely on proper lubrication and tension, neglecting oil changes can shorten the life of a timing chain. Dirty oil increases wear and can cause guides to fail. Many timing chain problems stem from poor maintenance, not just mileage. On the other hand, belts are external and not lubricated by engine oil. They simply age and wear. That is why proper timing belt replacement at recommended intervals is key. If you are not sure what your car uses, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage can help you learn the difference between a timing belt and a timing chain in your specific vehicle. Diesel Engines, Manual Transmissions, and Modern Designs Some diesel engines prefer chains because of higher compression forces. Many modern engines across the automotive industry