Newnum and Sons Garage

OEM vs Aftermarket Car Parts: Only One Protects Your Warranty When your car needs a repair, one of the first decisions you’ll face is whether to use OEM or aftermarket parts. Most people have no idea what those terms even mean, and that’s completely fair. But the choice you make here can have real consequences for your wallet, your warranty, and the long-term reliability of your vehicle. Let’s break this down in plain language so you can make a confident, informed decision. What Are OEM Car Parts? OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. These are the same parts that were used to build your car at the factory. They come from the same manufacturer that supplied your automaker, and they’re designed to fit and function exactly the way your vehicle was engineered to work. Think of OEM parts as the “factory original” version of whatever needs replacing. The fit is precise, the quality is consistent, and there’s no guessing involved. What Are Aftermarket Car Parts? Aftermarket parts are made by third-party companies – not the original manufacturer. Some of these companies make excellent products. Others… not so much. The aftermarket parts industry is massive, and quality varies wildly from brand to brand. That’s the key thing to understand. “Aftermarket” doesn’t automatically mean cheap or inferior, but it does mean less predictable. You need to know who made it, what standards they follow, and whether it’s the right fit for your specific vehicle. OEM vs Aftermarket Car Parts: The Core Differences Here’s where things get practical. When you’re comparing OEM vs aftermarket car parts, a few key factors should drive your decision. Fit and Compatibility OEM parts are made to exact specifications. They slide in, bolt up, and function exactly as the manufacturer intended. Aftermarket parts are designed to be compatible across a range of vehicles, which sometimes means slight variations in dimensions, materials, or finish. For most routine repairs, the difference is minimal. But for complex systems – like your transmission, brakes, or electrical systems – an imprecise fit can cause bigger problems down the road. Quality and Reliability OEM parts carry a guarantee of consistency. Every unit goes through the same quality control process before it leaves the factory. With aftermarket parts, quality control depends entirely on the manufacturer, and that can be a real gamble if you’re buying from an unfamiliar brand. That said, some aftermarket brands have strong reputations and rigorous testing processes. The issue is knowing which ones to trust, and that’s where working with an experienced technician makes all the difference. Cost Differences Aftermarket parts are usually less expensive than OEM, sometimes significantly so. For older vehicles or minor repairs, this can make aftermarket parts a smart financial choice. For newer vehicles still under warranty, or for safety-critical repairs, paying a bit more for OEM parts is often the better investment. Price shouldn’t be the only factor you consider. A cheap part that fails in six months costs more in the long run than a reliable OEM part that lasts the life of the vehicle. The Warranty Question – and It’s a Big One This is the part most drivers don’t fully understand until it’s too late. If your car is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, the parts used to repair it can absolutely affect your coverage. Does Using Aftermarket Parts Void Your Warranty? Here’s the short answer: it depends, and the nuance matters. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a federal law, manufacturers cannot void your warranty simply because you used aftermarket parts or chose an independent repair shop. However, they can deny a warranty claim if they can prove the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in question. So let’s say you put in an aftermarket sensor to save a few dollars, and that sensor causes an electrical issue. Your warranty claim on that repair could be denied. If the sensor had nothing to do with a separate engine issue, your engine repair claim would likely still be covered. The risk is real, even if it’s not absolute. Using OEM parts removes that risk entirely. New Cars vs. Older Vehicles For a newer vehicle still under the manufacturer’s warranty, sticking with OEM parts is the safest approach. The stakes are higher because warranty repairs can cover thousands of dollars in potential costs. For older vehicles outside the warranty period, aftermarket parts become a much more reasonable option – especially when they come from a reputable brand and are installed by a qualified technician. Where Independent Repair Shops Fit In A lot of drivers assume they have to go back to the dealership to get OEM parts installed. That’s not true. Independent repair shops like Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN can source and install OEM parts just as well as any dealership – often with faster turnaround, lower labor rates, and more personalized service. At Newnum and Sons Garage, every repair starts with a clear, upfront estimate so you know exactly what parts are being used and why. Their trained technicians know when OEM is the right call and when a quality aftermarket part makes more sense for your situation. When Aftermarket Parts Make Sense There are genuinely good reasons to choose aftermarket parts in the right circumstances. Here are a few situations where they can be a smart move: High-mileage vehicles where the cost of OEM parts outweighs the car’s value Out-of-warranty repairs where you’re focused on cost control Performance upgrades where aftermarket parts are specifically designed to outperform OEM Parts that are discontinued or no longer available from the original manufacturer In these cases, the key is choosing a reputable aftermarket brand and having it installed by someone who knows the difference. When OEM Parts Are Worth Every Penny There are also situations where OEM is the clear winner and shouldn’t be negotiated away for cost savings. Safety systems are non-negotiable. Your brake system, suspension components, and steering parts need to perform to exact specifications. For brake repairs

TPMS Light Blinked Then Went Solid: What Changed You’re driving along and notice that small orange light on your dashboard – the one that looks like a cross-section of a tire with an exclamation point in the middle. At first, it flashes. Then it stops blinking and stays on. What just happened? And does the change from blinking to solid actually mean something different? The short answer is yes, it does mean something different. And understanding that difference could save you from a flat tire, a rough ride, or unnecessary guesswork at the gas station. What Is the TPMS Light, and Why Does It Exist? TPMS stands for Tire Pressure Monitoring System. It’s a federally mandated safety feature that has been required on all new passenger vehicles sold in the United States since 2008. Its job is simple: keep you informed about the air pressure in your tires so you don’t end up driving on dangerously underinflated rubber. Most vehicles use what’s called a direct TPMS system. Each wheel has a small sensor inside that communicates wirelessly with your vehicle’s onboard computer. When pressure in any tire drops below a threshold – typically 25% below the manufacturer’s recommended level – the system triggers the warning light on your dashboard. So when that light comes on, your vehicle isn’t guessing. It’s reporting. What It Means When the TPMS Light Blinks When the TPMS light blinks or flashes, especially when you first start the car, that’s not a tire pressure warning in the traditional sense. That’s a system fault signal. Blinking usually means the TPMS system itself has detected a problem – not necessarily with your tire pressure, but with the monitoring equipment. This could be caused by a few different things. One of the most common culprits is a dead or failing sensor battery. The sensors inside your wheels run on small batteries, and those batteries typically last around five to ten years. When one starts to fail, the sensor can’t communicate properly with the vehicle’s computer, and the system responds by flashing the warning light. Other causes of a flashing TPMS light include: A sensor that was damaged during a tire change or rotation Interference from aftermarket wheels that weren’t compatible with the original sensors A software or communication glitch in the TPMS module A sensor that was lost or not reinstalled after new tires were mounted If you recently had tires rotated, replaced, or serviced and then noticed the light blinking shortly after, there’s a good chance the sensors weren’t properly reset or reinstalled. This is a surprisingly common oversight at shops that don’t specialize in tire systems. What It Means When the TPMS Light Goes Solid A solid, steady TPMS light has a more straightforward message: one or more of your tires is low on air right now. This is the system doing exactly what it was designed to do. The sensors are working, communication between the sensor and computer is intact, and the alert you’re seeing is a real pressure reading that has crossed below the safe threshold. The transition from blinking to solid often happens in one of two ways. Scenario one: The blinking was indicating a system fault, and then something changed – maybe the vehicle warmed up, the sensor reconnected, or the issue resolved temporarily. Once the system came back online and detected low pressure in a tire, it switched from a fault signal to a pressure warning. Scenario two: The light was initially solid, you added air, and the pressure later dropped again. The system then turned the warning back on to indicate that the tire was low. Either way, a solid TPMS light means you should check your tire pressure as soon as it’s safe to do so. Why the Blinking-to-Solid Transition Happens This is the part that trips most drivers up. The sequence – blink, then solid – can feel confusing, but it actually tells a story. When the system boots up and can’t communicate with one of the sensors, it flashes to say “I’m having trouble getting information.” Once communication is re-established (even partially), and the system detects that a tire’s pressure is genuinely low, it switches to the steady light. Think of it like your phone trying to connect to a network. While it’s searching, it shows one symbol. Once it locks onto a signal and processes what it finds, it shows you something else entirely. The blinking phase is the diagnostic mode. The solid phase is the confirmed alert. Can Temperature Changes Cause This? Yes, and this catches a lot of drivers off guard – especially heading into colder months. Tire pressure is directly affected by temperature. For every 10 degrees Fahrenheit the air temperature drops, your tires lose roughly one PSI of pressure. That might not sound like much, but on a cold morning after overnight temperatures fell significantly, your tires could lose two to four PSI without a single nail in sight. What sometimes happens is this: on a cold morning, the sensors detect low pressure and the light comes on solid. As you drive and the tires warm up, pressure increases slightly and the light may turn off on its own. But if temperatures continue to fluctuate, the light comes back. This back-and-forth can cause drivers to assume the system is malfunctioning when in reality, the tires are genuinely borderline and the cold is just exposing the problem consistently. If this pattern is happening to you, the fix isn’t to wait it out. The fix is to check your tire pressure with a manual gauge and add air to meet the manufacturer’s specification, which is listed on a sticker inside your driver’s door jamb. Should You Keep Driving With the TPMS Light On? It depends on whether the light is blinking or solid, and what your tire pressure actually is. If the light is solid and you haven’t checked your tires yet, don’t put it off. Driving on significantly underinflated tires generates excess heat,

Tire Cupping Symptoms Explained by Sound Alone Most drivers notice something is off with their tires long before they ever pull over to look at them. The car starts making a noise that wasn’t there before – something rhythmic, strange, and hard to ignore. If that sounds familiar, there’s a good chance your tires are trying to tell you something important. Tire cupping is one of those problems that announces itself loudly, literally. Before you ever see the uneven wear pattern on the tread, you’ll hear it. Knowing what to listen for can save you from bigger problems down the road – including a blowout you never saw coming. What Is Tire Cupping, and Why Does It Make Noise? Tire cupping, sometimes called tire scalloping, happens when sections of a tire’s tread wear down unevenly in a wavy or dipped pattern. Instead of wearing flat and smooth across the surface, the rubber develops high and low spots that look almost like scooped-out cups along the tread. Now here’s why that matters acoustically: as your tire rolls down the road, those uneven spots repeatedly slam into the pavement at irregular intervals. As the tire rolls, the uneven tread repeatedly changes how it contacts the pavement, creating vibration and noise – often quite a lot of it. The Sounds of Tire Cupping: What You’re Actually Hearing This is the part most articles skip over. Everyone talks about cupping as a visual problem, but drivers almost always hear it first. So let’s break down what cupped tires actually sound like. The Rhythmic Thumping Sound The most common sound associated with tire cupping is a thumping or bumping noise that pulses in a steady rhythm. It’s not random. The rhythm follows your speed – the faster you go, the faster the thumping gets. Slow down, and it slows down with you. This is because the thumping corresponds to each rotation of the tire. Every time that cupped section of tread comes around and makes contact with the road, it produces a thump. The size of the cup and the severity of the damage affect how loud and pronounced that thump sounds. The Hollow Drumming Sound Some drivers describe tire cupping as sounding like someone is drumming on the underside of their car. It has a hollow, resonant quality that seems to come from below the floorboard rather than outside the vehicle. This happens because the vibration from the uneven tread travels up through the suspension components and into the vehicle’s chassis. The car body itself can amplify the sound, which is why it sometimes feels like it’s coming from everywhere at once. The Rough Roaring Sound As cupping gets worse, the noise can develop into a rough, gravelly roar – similar to driving on a coarse gravel road even when you’re on smooth pavement. This sound is different from a simple thump because it’s more continuous and less rhythmic. At this stage, the cupping is usually significant. Multiple sections of the tread are worn down, and the overall surface contact with the road is seriously compromised. This is the sound that means you really can’t wait any longer. How the Sound Changes With Speed One useful diagnostic trick is to pay attention to how the sound behaves at different speeds. Tire cupping noise tends to: Increase steadily as you accelerate Become more intense on highways compared to city streets Shift slightly when you change lanes or take a gentle curve Get noticeably worse when the affected tire carries more load during a turn That last point is worth noting. If the sound gets louder when you turn in a specific direction, the cupped tire is likely on the side taking on more weight during that turn. Tire Cupping Symptoms Beyond the Sound Sound is the first warning, but your body will feel tire cupping too – often at the same time. Your steering wheel may vibrate or shimmy at certain speeds, particularly between 45 and 65 miles per hour. The seat of your car might feel like it’s buzzing slightly on longer highway drives. You might also feel the car pulling gently to one side, especially if only one or two tires are cupped. That pulling sensation happens because the uneven tread creates inconsistent friction across the contact patch, which the car translates into a directional drift. What Causes Tire Cupping in the First Place? Understanding the sound is one thing. Understanding why cupping happens helps you prevent it from coming back after you fix it. Tire cupping is almost always caused by one of three underlying issues. Worn or Damaged Shock Absorbers and Struts This is the most common culprit. Your shock absorbers and struts are designed to keep your tires in steady, consistent contact with the road. When they wear out or fail, the tire starts bouncing slightly with every bump and dip in the road surface. That bouncing is what creates the cupped wear pattern. The tire lifts and slaps back down repeatedly, grinding away the tread unevenly over thousands of miles. If you fix the tires but not the suspension, the new tires will cup again in short order. Wheel Alignment Problems When your wheels aren’t properly aligned, each tire sits at a slightly wrong angle relative to the road. That means certain portions of the tread are doing far more work than others, leading to uneven wear. Alignment problems often produce cupping along one edge of the tire rather than randomly across the surface. Unbalanced Wheels Wheel imbalance creates a wobble at speed that causes the tire to skip and hop in a subtle but damaging way. Over time, that skipping creates wear patterns similar to cupping. This is why regular tire balancing matters just as much as rotation. Is That Sound Cupping or Something Else? Tire cupping isn’t the only thing that makes a car sound strange. It’s worth ruling out a few other common noise sources before assuming you have a cupping problem. Wheel bearing noise

7 Symptoms of a Slipping Transmission You Shouldn’t Ignore Your transmission is one of the hardest-working components in your vehicle. It manages power from the engine and distributes it to the wheels, shifting gears smoothly so your car accelerates and drives the way it should. When that system starts to slip, most drivers either don’t notice right away or convince themselves it’s probably nothing. That’s where things get expensive. The symptoms of a slipping transmission are your vehicle’s way of waving a red flag. Ignore them long enough, and you’re not looking at a repair bill anymore – you’re looking at a full gearbox replacement. What Does a Slipping Transmission Actually Mean? “Slipping” sounds mechanical, but it’s easier to understand than it seems. Your transmission slips when it fails to stay in gear properly, shifts unexpectedly, or loses the ability to transfer engine power smoothly to the drivetrain. Think of it like trying to climb stairs when half the steps keep disappearing under your feet. The engine might be revving, but the momentum just isn’t there. This can happen gradually, which is exactly why so many drivers miss it early on. One day it’s a small hesitation, and a few months later, the gearbox is completely compromised. The Most Common Symptoms of a Slipping Transmission Knowing what to look for is the first step toward catching a problem before it turns into a catastrophe. These are the warning signs you should never brush off. Unexpected RPM Spikes Without Acceleration If your engine revs high but your vehicle doesn’t speed up accordingly, that’s a textbook symptom of a slipping transmission. The engine is doing its job, but the transmission isn’t holding the gear long enough to push power to the wheels. This is especially noticeable when you accelerate from a stop or try to pass someone on the highway. The tachometer climbs, but the car just doesn’t respond the way it should. Delayed or Rough Gear Shifting A healthy transmission shifts smoothly and almost invisibly. You shouldn’t feel it happening. When you start to notice a jolt, a clunk, or a significant pause between gear changes, that’s your transmission telling you something is wrong. Rough shifts can damage other drivetrain components over time, so what starts as a minor annoyance can cascade into something far worse. Slipping Into Neutral on Its Own This one is genuinely dangerous. If your vehicle unexpectedly pops out of gear and into neutral while you’re driving, you lose acceleration and, depending on your speed, meaningful control. If this has happened to you even once, stop treating it as a quirk. Get the vehicle inspected immediately. Burning Smell From Under the Hood Transmission fluid serves two purposes – it lubricates the internal components and helps regulate heat. When the fluid breaks down, burns, or runs low, friction builds up fast. A burning smell while driving is a strong indicator that your transmission is overheating. Left unchecked, that heat destroys the clutch packs and seals inside the gearbox, turning a fluid issue into a full mechanical failure. Check Engine or Transmission Warning Light Many drivers see a warning light and keep driving, assuming it’ll go away. It rarely does. Modern vehicles use sensors throughout the transmission to monitor performance. When something is off, those sensors trigger the warning light. It doesn’t always mean catastrophic failure is imminent, but it always means something needs attention from a trained technician. Whining, Humming, or Clunking Noises Unusual sounds are your vehicle’s most direct form of communication. A whining or humming noise that changes with vehicle speed, a clunk when shifting gears, or a grinding sensation during acceleration can all point to internal transmission wear. These sounds often indicate low fluid levels, worn gears, or deteriorating bearings – none of which fix themselves over time. Difficulty Getting Into Gear If your car hesitates, shudders, or refuses to engage a gear when you shift, that’s a functional failure of the transmission. For automatic transmissions, this might feel like a lag after moving the selector into drive or reverse. For manual transmissions, you might have difficulty pressing the clutch pedal or selecting a gear. Why Transmission Problems Get Worse, Not Better This is the part most drivers underestimate. Transmission issues are not static. A small problem with your fluid, a worn seal, or a slipping clutch band does not stay small. The internal components of a transmission are interdependent. When one part is stressed or starved of proper lubrication, the surrounding parts absorb that stress too. What starts as a $200 fluid flush can become a $2,000 rebuild if you ignore it long enough. Driving on a slipping transmission also puts stress on the rest of your drivetrain. The engine works harder, the driveshaft absorbs irregular forces, and the overall mechanical life of your vehicle shortens. What Causes a Transmission to Slip? Understanding the cause helps you make sense of why early action matters so much. Low or burnt transmission fluid is the most common culprit. Fluid levels drop due to leaks, and fluid quality degrades over time. Without adequate fluid, the transmission can’t build the hydraulic pressure it needs to engage gears properly. Worn clutch bands or plates are another frequent cause, particularly in high-mileage vehicles. These components wear down gradually, and once they lose their grip, gear engagement becomes inconsistent. Solenoid problems can also cause slipping. Transmission solenoids control fluid flow through the valve body, and when they malfunction, the wrong amount of fluid reaches the wrong place at the wrong time. Torque converter issues in automatic transmissions can mimic slipping symptoms as well. If the converter isn’t locking up correctly, you lose mechanical efficiency and feel that sluggish, disconnected sensation during acceleration. Automatic vs. Manual Transmission: Does It Matter? Both transmission types can slip, but they do it differently. With an automatic transmission, slipping usually feels like unexpected gear changes, RPM spikes, or a noticeable lag when accelerating. The onboard computer tries to compensate, which can mask the problem briefly

What to Check Before Your Road Trip There is a certain kind of optimism that kicks in before a road trip. You toss your bags in the trunk, grab a coffee, and mentally calculate how many hours until you arrive. What often does not make the list? A real look at what is happening under the hood. Stopping at a gas station to top off the tank feels like preparation. But fueling up is the easy part. The things most likely to strand you on the side of the road have nothing to do with how full your gas tank is. Before your next road trip from Covington, IN, here is what actually deserves your attention. Why a Pre-Road Trip Vehicle Check Matters More Than You Think Most breakdowns do not happen suddenly out of nowhere. They build quietly over miles and months until the timing is the worst possible – usually when you are far from home, loaded down with luggage, and already running late. A quick inspection before a long drive does not have to be complicated or expensive. It just has to happen. And knowing what to check before a road trip is the difference between a smooth trip and an unexpected detour you did not budget for. What to Check Before a Road Trip 1. Engine Oil Level and Condition Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. Without clean, adequate oil, internal engine components grind against each other and wear down fast. Heat builds up. Parts fail. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, dip it again, and look at the level and color. Fresh oil is amber-colored. Dark, gritty oil that smells burnt is overdue for a change. If you are approaching your next oil change interval, get it done before you leave rather than mid-trip. If your vehicle has been burning oil or if the light has flickered recently, have a technician take a look before you put hundreds of miles on it. 2. Tire Condition and Pressure Tires do more work on a long highway drive than most people realize. Heat from extended driving causes pressure to build inside the tire, and underinflated tires heat up faster and wear unevenly – which is a recipe for a blowout. Check the pressure in all four tires, plus the spare if your vehicle has one. Use the pressure listed on the sticker inside your driver’s door jamb, not the number printed on the tire sidewall. Those are different, and the difference matters. Beyond pressure, run your eyes and hands over each tire. Look for: Uneven tire wear, which can signal an alignment or suspension problem Cracking or bulging along the sidewalls Tread depth that is getting shallow (use the penny test – if you can see all of Lincoln’s head, it is time for new tires) If the tread looks borderline, do not gamble on it. A tire inspection from a professional takes very little time and gives you real peace of mind. 3. Brakes Your brakes are not something to defer on a road trip. You will be driving at highway speeds, often in unfamiliar territory, sharing the road with other vehicles that may stop without warning. Listen for squealing, grinding, or a soft pedal that sinks lower than normal. Feel for vibration or pulling to one side when you brake. These are not minor nuisances – they are signals that something needs attention before you leave. A brake inspection at Newnum and Sons Garage is straightforward and worth every minute. Their technicians check pad thickness, rotor condition, and brake fluid – the things that determine whether your brakes will perform when you actually need them. 4. Fluid Levels Your vehicle runs on more than just oil and fuel. Before a road trip, check these: Coolant – Keeps the engine from overheating, especially during summer driving or when towing Brake fluid – If it is low, that is a sign of a leak or worn pads Power steering fluid – Low levels make steering feel heavy and sluggish Windshield washer fluid – Easily forgotten, genuinely annoying to run out of on the highway Transmission fluid – Protects the transmission during extended driving; low or burnt fluid can lead to expensive damage If any of these are low or look discolored, top them off or have them flushed by a professional before you leave. 5. Battery and Electrical System A battery that is borderline at home becomes a dead battery on the road. Extreme temperatures and extended drives can push an aging battery over the edge. If your battery is more than three years old, have it load-tested. This takes just a few minutes and tells you whether it is still holding a proper charge. While you are at it, check the terminals for corrosion – a white or bluish crust around the posts – and make sure the connections are tight. Electrical issues can also show up in other ways: lights that flicker, warning lights that pop on randomly, or accessories that do not work consistently. Do not ignore those. The electrical system in modern vehicles is complex, and small issues can grow quickly. 6. Air Conditioning If you are planning a summer drive, this one matters more than people admit. A failing A/C system is not just uncomfortable – it is genuinely exhausting when outside temperatures climb. Common signs that your A/C needs attention include warm air coming from the vents, weak airflow, unusual smells when the system runs, or a system that works fine for a while and then stops cooling. These usually point to a refrigerant issue or a failing component that can be serviced before your trip. Newnum and Sons Garage offers A/C services and can diagnose the problem before you spend eight hours sweating in a car that refuses to cool down. 7. Belts and Hoses These are the components most people never think about until they fail. A snapped serpentine belt leaves you completely stranded. A burst coolant

Car Maintenance by Mileage: What Your Odometer Reveals Most drivers think about car maintenance the wrong way. They wait until something breaks, a warning light comes on, or the car starts making a noise they’ve never heard before. By then, a simple fix has often turned into a costly repair. Here’s the thing: your odometer is actually one of the most reliable guides you have. The mileage on your car tells a clear story about what it needs and when. Car maintenance by mileage is not a marketing gimmick – it’s the system your vehicle was designed around. If you’ve ever wondered whether you’re staying on top of your car’s upkeep or falling behind, this guide will help you understand exactly where you stand. Why Mileage Matters More Than You Might Think Most people assume maintenance schedules are based on time – like getting an oil change every six months. Time does play a role, but mileage is usually the more accurate measure because it reflects actual wear on your vehicle’s parts. Think about it this way. A car that sits in a driveway for six months experiences very different stress than one that logs 10,000 miles in the same period. Your engine, brakes, transmission, and tires all wear according to how much they’re used, not how many days pass. That’s why automakers and experienced mechanics build maintenance schedules around mileage intervals. It’s a smarter, more precise way to protect your investment. The Core Mileage Intervals Every Driver Should Know Car maintenance by mileage follows a fairly consistent pattern across most makes and models. While your owner’s manual is always the best reference for your specific vehicle, here are the intervals that apply to most cars and light trucks. Every 3,000 to 5,000 Miles: The Basics This is where your most frequent maintenance lives. For many vehicles, especially older ones or those using conventional motor oil, an oil and filter change falls in this range. If your car uses full synthetic oil, you may be able to stretch this to 7,500 or even 10,000 miles depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. At this interval, a good technician will also check your tire pressure, inspect your fluids, and look for anything that seems off. It’s a quick visit, but it’s one of the most important ones you’ll make. Every 15,000 to 30,000 Miles: Systems Check By this point, certain components need closer attention. Your cabin air filter is typically due for replacement somewhere in this range, and your engine air filter may need a look too. Brake fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant levels should all be inspected and topped off if needed. This is also a good time to have your suspension components checked. Worn bushings, ball joints, and shocks don’t always announce themselves loudly – but they affect your handling and safety every time you drive. Every 30,000 to 60,000 Miles: Mid-Life Maintenance At this stage, your vehicle has seen real road time, and certain systems are starting to work harder. Brake pads are a common replacement item in this range, though driving habits and conditions can move that number in either direction. Spark plugs, which are central to a proper tune-up, are often due for replacement in this range, depending on whether your vehicle uses standard or iridium plugs. Your transmission fluid and differential fluid may also need attention depending on your vehicle type and usage. Ignoring these fluids is one of the more common ways drivers end up facing expensive repairs down the road. Your tires should be rotated regularly throughout this range, and a wheel alignment check is worth scheduling if you’ve noticed any pulling or uneven wear. Proper alignment protects your tires and keeps your car tracking straight on the road. Every 60,000 to 100,000 Miles: The Big Intervals This is where some of the more significant maintenance items come due. Timing belts on vehicles that have them are typically recommended for replacement somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. Missing this one can lead to catastrophic engine damage, so it’s not a service to push off. Coolant flushes, transmission flushes, and fuel system cleanings often fall in this range as well. Your exhaust system should also be inspected more carefully at this stage, as components like the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter can degrade over time. If your vehicle is approaching or past 100,000 miles, it doesn’t mean it’s running out of life – it means it deserves a thorough once-over to identify what’s still in good shape and what needs attention. What Happens When You Skip Mileage-Based Maintenance Skipping scheduled maintenance is almost always a short-term savings with a long-term price tag. Here’s how that plays out in practice. Old, dirty oil doesn’t lubricate as well as fresh oil. Over time, this increases friction inside the engine and leads to wear that simply can’t be undone. Neglecting spark plug replacements causes your engine to work less efficiently, which means worse fuel economy and more strain on surrounding components. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can lead to brake fade when you need stopping power the most. Coolant that’s never been flushed becomes acidic and starts corroding your radiator system from the inside out. These aren’t scare tactics – they’re mechanical realities. The good news is that staying on schedule with car maintenance by mileage keeps these problems from ever getting started. How to Know Where Your Car Stands Right Now If you’re not sure whether you’re behind on maintenance, start with the basics. Pull out your owner’s manual and compare your current mileage to the service intervals listed. If you don’t have the manual, your repair shop can look up the manufacturer’s schedule for your specific make and model. Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, offers free online maintenance schedules to help drivers know exactly where they stand. This takes the guesswork out of it and gives you a clear picture of what’s coming up and what

Stop Guessing: How to Find a Slow Leak in a Tire You walk out to your car in the morning, and something just looks off. One tire seems a little lower than the rest. You fill it up, drive for a few days, and it happens again. Sound familiar? A slow leak in a tire is one of those frustrating problems that doesn’t announce itself loudly. It hides. It tricks you into thinking everything is fine – until it isn’t. The good news is that finding a slow leak is something you can often diagnose yourself, as long as you know where to look and what you’re looking for. This guide will walk you through exactly that. What Is a Slow Leak in a Tire, and Why Does It Matter? A slow leak is exactly what it sounds like: air escaping from your tire gradually over time, rather than all at once. Unlike a blowout or a sudden flat, a slow leak might only cause your tire to lose a few PSI (pounds per square inch) per day or even per week. That might not sound like a big deal, but it is. An underinflated tire affects your fuel economy, wears down unevenly, and – more importantly – puts your safety at risk. Driving on a tire that’s slowly losing air puts extra stress on the sidewall, which can lead to a dangerous failure at highway speeds. Common Causes of a Slow Tire Leak Before you start hunting for the leak, it helps to know where it typically hides. The most common culprits are: A nail, screw, or road debris puncturing the tread area A damaged or corroded valve stem letting air seep out slowly A leaking bead seal where the tire meets the rim A cracked or bent wheel from a pothole or curb hit Tire sidewall damage that’s subtle enough to miss at first glance Each of these has a slightly different fix, which is why identifying the exact source matters before you do anything else. How to Find a Slow Leak in a Tire: Step-by-Step You don’t need a professional garage to start the investigation. Here’s how to track down a slow leak on your own. Step 1: Check Your Tire Pressure First Start with a quality tire pressure gauge. Check all four tires and compare them to the recommended PSI listed on the sticker inside your driver’s door jamb – not on the tire itself. If one tire is consistently lower than the others over several days, that’s your target. Keep a simple log. Check the pressure in the morning before you drive, wait 24 to 48 hours, and check again. A tire that keeps losing air is telling you something is wrong. Step 2: Do a Visual Inspection With the tire pressure back to where it should be, get down and look carefully at the tire. You’re scanning for anything that doesn’t belong – a nail head, a screw tip, a piece of glass embedded in the tread. Run your hand slowly along the tread and sidewall. Sometimes a small piece of debris will have worked its way in deep enough that it’s barely visible, but you can feel it. Also check the sidewall for any bulges, cuts, or cracks that might be the source. Step 3: Inspect the Valve Stem The valve stem is that small rubber or metal nozzle you use to add air. It’s easy to overlook, but it’s one of the most common sources of slow leaks – especially on older vehicles. Remove the cap and press your finger or a wet thumb against the opening. If you feel air pushing back, you’ve found your leak. Alternatively, apply a small amount of soapy water to the valve stem and watch for bubbling. Bubbles mean air is escaping. Step 4: The Soapy Water Method This is the most reliable DIY method for finding a slow leak in a tire, and it works every time when done correctly. Mix dish soap with water in a spray bottle or bowl, then generously apply it to the entire tire – the tread, the sidewall, the bead where the tire meets the rim, and the valve stem. Watch carefully. Wherever air is escaping, you’ll see bubbles forming. It might take a minute or two for a very slow leak to show itself, so be patient. Mark the spot with a piece of chalk or tape so you don’t lose it. Step 5: The Water Submersion Method If you have access to a large tub or container, you can also submerge sections of the inflated tire in water. Bubbles rising from a specific point will pinpoint the exact location of the leak. This method is especially useful for finding leaks along the bead or rim area, which can be harder to spot with the spray method. This is actually the same basic technique professional tire technicians use in a shop setting. What to Do Once You’ve Found the Leak Once you know where the air is escaping, you have a decision to make. Some leaks are straightforward repairs. Others need professional attention. When You Can DIY If the leak is caused by a small nail or screw in the tread area – not the sidewall – a plug or patch kit from an auto parts store can temporarily fix the problem. These kits are inexpensive and relatively easy to use. That said, a plug is not a permanent fix. It’s a bridge to get you to a shop safely, not a substitute for a proper repair. The Tire Industry Association recommends that all tire repairs be inspected and completed by a trained technician for long-term safety. When You Need a Professional There are situations where DIY isn’t the right call: The leak is on the sidewall or near the shoulder of the tire You can see a crack or separation along the bead The wheel itself looks bent or cracked The tire has lost significant pressure

Streaky Windshield Wipers Mean It’s Time to Check the Rubber, Not the Blade You flip on your windshield wipers during a rainstorm and instead of a clean sweep, you get a blurry mess of streaks across the glass. Most people assume the whole wiper blade needs to go. But here’s the thing – the problem is usually not the metal arm or the blade frame. It’s the rubber. Understanding the difference can save you time, money, and a lot of squinting through a smeared windshield. Why the Rubber Is the Real Problem The windscreen wiper system on your car is made up of a few parts working together. There’s the metal arm, the blade assembly, and the rubber insert that actually makes contact with the windshield. The rubber is what does all the work. Natural rubber is durable, but it is not invincible. The sun breaks it down. Extreme temperatures crack it. Wax residue from car washes builds up on it. Even just sitting through months of dry weather in Indiana causes the rubber to stiffen and lose that smooth, flexible edge it needs to wipe cleanly. When rubber degrades, it stops making full, even contact with the glass surface. That uneven contact is exactly what causes streaking. Common Reasons Wiper Rubber Goes Bad Wax and chemical buildup – When you run your car through a car wash, some of the wax and cleaning agents used can transfer onto your wiper rubber. Over time, that residue builds up and prevents a clean wipe. Contamination from the environment – Dust, pollen, road grime, and even windshield washer fluid residue can coat the edge of the rubber and affect how it moves across the windshield. A contaminated rubber edge will drag, skip, or streak no matter how new the blade is. Temperature changes – Rubber does not handle repeated freezing and thawing well. If you live anywhere that gets real winters – and Covington, Indiana certainly qualifies – you have probably noticed your wipers getting worse after the cold months. Age and UV exposure – Wiper rubber also wears out over time. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the rubber every six to twelve months. Many drivers go years without ever touching them. How to Check If the Rubber Is the Issue Before you head out and buy a whole new wiper assembly, take a minute to actually look at the rubber. Run your finger along the edge of the wiper rubber. It should feel smooth and slightly flexible. If it feels hard, brittle, or rough, that’s your answer. You can also look for visible cracks, tears, or rounded edges where there should be a sharp, clean contact point. Another test: pour a small amount of water on your windshield and run the wipers. Watch how they move. If they skip or leave bands of water behind, the rubber edge is not maintaining consistent pressure against the glass. Can You Clean It Instead of Replacing It? Sometimes, yes. If the rubber is still in decent shape but has buildup on it, a quick cleaning can restore performance. Take a clean cloth and dampen it with rubbing alcohol. Wipe along the rubber edge slowly, from one end to the other. You will likely be surprised at how much grime comes off. Then test the wipers again with a little water on the windshield. This trick works well when the streaking is caused by contamination rather than physical degradation. Think of it like cleaning the drum seals on a washing machine – sometimes the component is fine, it just needs the gunk removed. However, if the rubber is cracked, hardened, or torn, cleaning will not fix it. That is when replacement is the right call. What About the Windshield Itself? Sometimes the wipers are not the problem at all. The windshield can be the culprit. Wax overspray from detailing products, oily film from exhaust, and even certain windshield washer fluid formulas can leave a coating on the glass that causes streaks regardless of how good your wiper rubber is. A Toyota Camry driver who details their car obsessively might actually cause wiper streaking by applying too much wax near the glass. Clean your windshield thoroughly with a good glass cleaner and see if that makes a difference before assuming the wipers need attention. When It’s Time to Let a Pro Take a Look If you have cleaned the rubber, cleaned the windshield, and the streaking problem keeps coming back, it may be time to bring your car in for a closer look. Visibility is a safety issue, not just an annoyance. Rain, low light, and highway speeds are a dangerous combination if your wipers are not doing their job. At Newnum and Sons Garage, the team regularly spots wiper and visibility issues as part of routine inspections. They work on everything from everyday commuters to older vehicles, and they are not going to upsell you on something you do not need. If it’s just the rubber, that’s all you’ll pay for. Give them a call at 765-793-3334 to schedule a quick inspection or ask what they recommend. How to Stop Windshield Wipers From Leaving Streaks Streaky wipers are usually a rubber problem, not a blade problem – and the fix is often simpler and cheaper than people expect. Check the rubber edge for wear, clean it with rubbing alcohol if it looks contaminated, and inspect the windshield for wax or film buildup. If the problem keeps coming back, bring your vehicle into Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN. Their technicians will diagnose the issue honestly and get your visibility back where it needs to be.

How Long Does a Muffler Actually Last on Your Car You hear a strange rumble coming from under your car. Maybe it started as a faint hiss, or maybe one morning it just sounded like your vehicle swallowed a motorcycle. Either way, the muffler is suddenly on your radar, and you want to know how serious this is. The honest answer is that muffler lifespan varies quite a bit. Most mufflers last anywhere from five to seven years, but that range can shift dramatically depending on how you drive, where you live, and what your car is made of. Let’s break it down so you actually know what to expect. What a Muffler Does and Why It Wears Out Your muffler is part of the exhaust system, which is the series of pipes and components that channel combustion gases away from the engine and out through the tailpipe. The muffler itself uses chambers and baffles to reduce the noise those gases make as they exit. The problem is that exhaust gases are hot, and they carry moisture. Over time, that moisture condenses inside the muffler – especially on short trips where the system never gets hot enough to fully burn it off. That trapped moisture causes rust from the inside out, which is one of the main reasons mufflers fail. The Average Muffler Lifespan: What Most Drivers Can Expect For most everyday vehicles, a muffler should last between 40,000 and 80,000 miles, or roughly five to seven years. However, that is not a hard rule. Several factors can push that number lower or higher. Here is a general breakdown of what affects lifespan: Driving habits: Frequent short trips are harder on mufflers than long highway drives because the system never heats up enough to evaporate internal moisture. Road conditions: Driving on rough roads, gravel, or roads with heavy debris puts physical stress on exhaust components. Climate: Cold winters and road salt are particularly damaging to the underside of a vehicle, including the muffler and surrounding pipes. Vehicle age and mileage: Older vehicles are naturally more susceptible to exhaust system wear simply because more time has passed for corrosion to develop. Muffler material: Budget replacement mufflers made from aluminized steel tend to rust faster than stainless steel options. Signs Your Muffler Is Starting to Fail You do not always get a dramatic warning. Sometimes the signs are subtle at first and then get louder over time. Knowing what to look for can save you from a more expensive repair later. Unusual Noise This is the most obvious sign. A healthy exhaust system should be relatively quiet. If your car suddenly sounds louder than usual – particularly at startup or during acceleration – your muffler may have a hole, crack, or loose connection. A rattling sound underneath the vehicle can also indicate that a bracket or hanger holding the exhaust in place has broken. The muffler might still be intact, but it is no longer properly secured. Decreased Fuel Efficiency A failing exhaust system creates back pressure that can interfere with engine performance. If you notice you are stopping at the pump more often without any change in your driving habits, it is worth having the exhaust system checked. Visible Rust or Damage If you ever get the chance to look under your car – whether at a shop or during a tire rotation – take a peek at the exhaust. Rust, holes, or sections that look like they are hanging lower than they should are all red flags. Smell Inside the Cabin This one is urgent. If you smell exhaust fumes inside your car while driving, treat it as a potential carbon monoxide hazard. Carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless on its own, but if exhaust gases are leaking into the cabin, other compounds in those gases may produce a noticeable smell. Pull over safely and have the vehicle inspected before driving it again. How Short Trips Shorten Muffler Life This point deserves a little more attention because it surprises a lot of drivers. If most of your trips are under ten minutes, your exhaust system regularly heats up but may never get hot enough to fully evaporate the water that condenses inside. That moisture just sits there and does what moisture does to metal: it rusts. Drivers who regularly take longer drives or highway trips tend to see their mufflers last closer to the upper end of the lifespan range. If you mostly run quick errands around town, do not be surprised if your muffler wears out sooner. Can You Drive with a Bad Muffler? Technically, yes – at least for a short time. But it is not a good idea, and in some cases it is unsafe. A loud exhaust is also, in many places, a violation that can result in a fine. More importantly, a failing muffler is often a sign that other parts of the exhaust system are also degrading. Ignoring the muffler can lead to damage spreading to the catalytic converter, oxygen sensors, or exhaust pipes – and those repairs are significantly more expensive. The smart move is to get it looked at as soon as you notice something off. What About Muffler Replacement Costs? Cost varies depending on the vehicle make and model, the type of muffler being installed, and the labor involved. Generally speaking, a straightforward muffler replacement can range from around $150 to $400 for most standard vehicles. More complex exhaust systems or performance vehicles will be on the higher end. The key is getting an honest diagnosis first. A good shop will tell you whether you need a full muffler replacement, a simple weld repair, or if another exhaust component is actually the problem. How to Make Your Muffler Last Longer There is no way to make a muffler last forever, but there are a few practical things you can do to help it reach its full lifespan. Take longer drives occasionally if most of your trips are short. Even a

What Causes a Transmission to Overheat Your car’s transmission is one of the hardest-working mechanical devices under the hood. It manages the power your engine produces and transfers it to the wheels, shifting gears thousands of times over the life of the vehicle. When something goes wrong with it, you feel it immediately – and overheating is one of the most damaging things that can happen. So what causes a transmission to overheat? The short answer is: low fluid, most of the time. But there’s more to it than that, and understanding the full picture can save you from a very expensive repair. The Role of Transmission Fluid (ATF) Automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, does more than most people realize. It’s not just a lubricant – it’s also a hydraulic fluid that powers the internal components of your automatic transmission. It reduces friction between moving parts, carries heat away from critical areas, and keeps everything running smoothly. When ATF levels drop or when the fluid breaks down from age and heat exposure, the transmission loses its ability to manage temperature. Components that should be cushioned and cooled are suddenly running hot and dry. That’s when hyperthermia – the technical term for overheating – sets in and damage begins to accumulate fast. Low Fluid: The Most Common Culprit Why Fluid Gets Low in the First Place Unlike motor oil, transmission fluid in a properly functioning vehicle doesn’t burn off or get consumed. If your fluid level is low, that’s almost always a sign of a leak somewhere in the system. Common sources of transmission fluid leaks include worn seals, a cracked pan, a failing solenoid, or a damaged transmission line. A slow leak might not seem like a big deal at first, but even a small drop in fluid level can cause temperature to spike during driving – especially under heavy load or stop-and-go conditions. What Happens When the Fluid Is Too Low Think of it this way: ATF is the lifeblood of your transmission. When it’s low, there’s less fluid to absorb and dissipate heat. Friction builds up between internal parts, temperatures climb, and the fluid that is left begins to break down even faster under that elevated heat. Operating an automatic transmission with low or degraded fluid is one of the fastest ways to cause serious internal failure. Components like clutch packs and bands start to wear prematurely, and what started as a fluid leak can turn into a full rebuild job. Other Causes of Transmission Overheating While low fluid is the leading cause, it’s not the only one. A few other factors can push your transmission temperature into dangerous territory. Towing or hauling heavy loads puts enormous strain on your transmission. The engine works harder, the transmission shifts more aggressively, and heat builds up faster than normal driving conditions would create. Driving in extreme heat compounds the problem. Your vehicle’s cooling system handles both the engine and, in many cars, the transmission. If the radiator system is struggling, the transmission cooler built into it struggles too. A failing transmission cooler is another culprit. Many vehicles – including popular models like the Honda Odyssey – rely on a cooler integrated into the radiator to keep ATF temperatures in check. When that cooler malfunctions or gets clogged, heat has nowhere to go. Old, degraded fluid behaves more like sludge than a proper lubricant. Even if the level looks fine on the dipstick, fluid that has darkened and lost its viscosity can’t do its job effectively. Warning Signs Your Transmission Is Running Hot Your vehicle will usually try to tell you something is wrong before a full failure occurs. Pay attention to these signals: A burning smell, especially after highway driving or climbing hills Sluggish or delayed gear shifts The transmission warning light appearing on your dashboard Visible fluid leaks under the vehicle (ATF is usually reddish or brownish) The vehicle slipping out of gear unexpectedly If you notice any of these, don’t ignore them. Heat damage to a transmission compounds quickly – what’s a minor repair today can become a major one within a few hundred miles. What You Can Do to Prevent It Routine maintenance is your best defense. Having your transmission fluid checked regularly, watching for signs of leaks, and staying on top of your vehicle’s service schedule goes a long way toward preventing overheating. If you’re in Covington, IN, and you’re not sure when your transmission fluid was last serviced, that’s a great place to start. Fresh, clean ATF at the right level keeps friction down and temperature in check. It’s one of the simplest things you can do to protect a system that costs thousands of dollars to replace. How to Keep Your Transmission from Overheating Transmission overheating is serious, but it’s also largely preventable. Low ATF is the most common trigger, often caused by a slow leak that goes unnoticed until the damage is done. Staying ahead of it means checking your fluid, catching leaks early, and keeping up with scheduled maintenance. If your transmission is showing any warning signs, don’t wait. Schedule a transmission inspection with Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 and let their team figure out what’s going on before it gets worse.