Newnum and Sons Garage

Why Isn’t My AC Working in My Car? 9 Common Causes and Fixes There are few things more miserable than sitting in a hot car with an air conditioning system that refuses to cooperate. Whether you’re dealing with a heat wave or just the usual summer humidity, a broken AC can turn every drive into a sweaty ordeal. The good news is that most AC problems have identifiable causes, and many can be fixed without too much drama. Here is a straightforward breakdown of nine common reasons your car’s air conditioning might not be working – and what you can do about it. Low Refrigerant from a Leak The most common culprit behind a weak or completely dead AC system is low refrigerant. Refrigerant – sometimes referred to as Freon – is the substance that actually cools the air inside your vehicle. Over time, small leaks can develop in the system, gradually reducing pressure until the AC stops blowing cold altogether. A refrigerant leak is not something you should ignore. Running the system with low refrigerant puts extra strain on the compressor and can lead to far more expensive repairs down the road. Failed AC Compressor The compressor is essentially the heart of your automotive air conditioning system. It pressurizes the refrigerant and keeps the entire cooling cycle moving. If the compressor fails – or if the clutch that engages it stops working – your AC will blow nothing but warm air. Compressor problems often develop after a vehicle sits unused for a long stretch. Keeping the AC running periodically through cooler months can help preserve the compressor’s health. Broken or Faulty Condenser The AC condenser works a lot like a radiator. It releases heat from the refrigerant after it has been compressed, allowing the refrigerant to cool back down before cycling through again. If the condenser gets damaged – from road debris, for example – or becomes clogged, that heat transfer process breaks down entirely. A visual inspection of the front of your vehicle can sometimes reveal obvious condenser damage, though internal blockages are harder to spot without professional diagnostics. Electrical Issues or a Blown Fuse Your car’s air conditioning system depends on a network of electrical components to function. A blown fuse, a faulty relay, or a wiring problem can cut power to the system and leave you without any cooling at all. Troubleshooting electrical issues can be tricky without the right tools. A technician will typically check the fuse box first since a blown fuse is one of the simplest and cheapest fixes available. Clogged Cabin Air Filter Many drivers do not realize that a clogged cabin air filter can significantly reduce airflow from the vents, making it feel like the AC is barely working. If air is moving through the system but the output feels weak, a dirty air filter might be the entire problem. Replacing a cabin air filter is one of the most affordable maintenance tasks on any vehicle. It is worth checking this before assuming something more serious is wrong. Malfunctioning Cooling Fan The cooling fan helps pull air through the condenser to release heat from the refrigerant. If that fan stops working properly, heat builds up in the system, and the AC loses its ability to cool effectively. This is a component that can fail gradually, so you might notice the AC working fine at highway speeds, where airflow compensates, but struggling when the car is idling in traffic or parked. Evaporator Problems The evaporator is the component inside your dashboard that actually absorbs heat from the cabin air, producing that cool breeze you feel from the vents. If the evaporator develops a leak or becomes frozen due to an airflow issue, the AC system will struggle or stop working entirely. A frozen evaporator sometimes corrects itself after the car is turned off for a while, but if freezing keeps happening, there is usually an underlying issue that needs attention. Water Drainage Issues Your AC system naturally produces condensation as it removes moisture from the air. That water is supposed to drain out through a small tube beneath the vehicle. If that drain gets clogged, water can back up into the cabin, and in some cases, it can affect the system’s ability to function properly. If you notice water pooling inside your car near the footwells, a clogged AC drain line is a likely suspect. Overheating Engine or Coolant Issues Sometimes an AC problem is actually a sign of a bigger engine issue. An overheating engine or low coolant can indirectly affect how the AC system performs, since heat management systems in your car are often interconnected. If your temperature gauge is running high at the same time your AC seems to be struggling, it is worth having the entire cooling system, including the radiator, inspected right away. Should You Try to Fix It Yourself? Some of the simpler issues – like replacing a cabin air filter or checking a fuse – are within reach for most car owners. However, anything involving refrigerant, the compressor, the evaporator, or the condenser really should be handled by a qualified technician. Automotive air conditioning systems operate under high pressure, and mishandling refrigerants is both dangerous and regulated by law. When troubleshooting gets beyond swapping filters or checking fuses, it is safer and smarter to bring in a professional. What to Do When Your Car AC Stops Working A malfunctioning car AC is frustrating, but it is almost always fixable once the root cause is identified. Whether you drive a car, truck, or SUV, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage has the tools and experience to diagnose the problem and get your cooling system back in shape. Do not wait until the next heat wave catches you off guard. Schedule your A/C service with Newnum and Sons Garage today, or call us at 765-793-3334 to set up an appointment.

Ignition Coil Vs Spark Plug: What’s the Difference? If your car is misfiring, struggling to start, or getting worse fuel economy than usual, you might be wondering whether the problem is the ignition coil or the spark plug. These two components are closely related, but they do very different jobs inside your engine. Understanding the difference can help you have a smarter conversation with your mechanic and avoid unnecessary repairs. What Is a Spark Plug? A spark plug is a small but critical part of your vehicle’s ignition system. Its job is straightforward: it delivers an electrical spark inside the engine cylinder to ignite the air-fuel mixture. That controlled explosion is what pushes the piston down and keeps your engine running. Each cylinder in your engine has its own spark plug. When a spark plug wears out or fails, that cylinder stops firing correctly, and you start to notice problems like rough idling, poor acceleration, or even engine knocking. Spark plugs deal with extreme heat and pressure every single time your engine fires. Over time, the electrodes wear down, and the plug becomes less effective at generating a reliable spark. Most manufacturers recommend replacing them every 30,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on the type. What Is an Ignition Coil? The ignition coil is essentially a transformer. It takes the low voltage from your car’s battery and converts it into the high voltage needed to create a spark at the plug. Without that voltage boost, the spark plug simply cannot do its job. In older vehicles, a single coil would send electricity through a distributor and spark plug wires to each cylinder in sequence. Modern cars have moved toward a coil-on-plug design, where each spark plug gets its own dedicated ignition coil. Brands like MotoRad (motorad.com) produce replacement ignition coils built to meet or exceed original equipment standards. When an ignition coil fails, it cuts off the high-voltage supply to one or more cylinders. The result is similar to a bad spark plug – misfires, rough running, and reduced fuel efficiency. Ignition Coil Vs Spark Plug: Key Differences Both parts play a role in combustion, but they function at different stages of the ignition process. The spark plug is the final delivery point. It takes the electrical energy and physically creates the spark inside the cylinder. The ignition coil is the power source behind that spark. It generates and amplifies the voltage before it ever reaches the plug. Think of it this way: the ignition coil is like a pump that builds pressure, and the spark plug is the nozzle that releases it. If either one fails, the whole system breaks down. Here is a quick comparison to make the distinction clearer: Ignition Coil – Converts battery voltage to high voltage; powers the spark plug; one per cylinder in modern vehicles Spark Plug – Delivers the actual spark; ignites the air-fuel ratio mixture in the cylinder; subject to wear from heat and combustion How Do You Know Which One Has Failed? This is where it gets tricky, because a failing ignition coil and a worn-out spark plug can cause almost identical symptoms. Both can lead to misfires, rough idling, reduced power, and poor fuel economy. Your check engine light will likely come on in either case. The best way to diagnose the issue accurately is to use an OBD-II scanner to read the fault codes stored in your vehicle’s computer. A misfire code tied to a specific cylinder is a good starting point, but it does not tell you whether the coil or the plug is the culprit. A trained technician can narrow it down by swapping the coil from the misfiring cylinder to another and checking whether the misfire follows the coil. This simple test often reveals the real problem quickly. Attempting to diagnose it yourself without the right tools can lead to replacing parts that did not actually need replacing. Can a Bad Spark Plug Damage the Ignition Coil? Yes, and this is something many car owners do not realize. A fouled or worn spark plug forces the ignition coil to work harder to push voltage through the gap. Over time, that extra strain can shorten the coil’s lifespan significantly. This is one reason why routine tune-ups matter. Replacing spark plugs on schedule protects the rest of your ignition system from unnecessary wear. It is a small investment that can prevent a much larger repair down the road. Should You Replace Both at the Same Time? Not always, but it depends on the age of your vehicle and the condition of both components. If your spark plugs are already near the end of their service life when a coil fails, replacing both together saves labor costs and prevents a return visit shortly after. A good mechanic will inspect both components and give you an honest recommendation based on what they actually find, not what is easiest to upsell. Ignition Coil vs Spark Plug: What to Do Next The ignition coil and spark plug are teammates in your vehicle’s ignition system, but they are not interchangeable. One generates the power, and the other delivers it. When either one fails, your engine pays the price. If you are dealing with misfires or rough running and need a reliable diagnosis in Covington, IN, call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334. Their technicians can pinpoint the problem and get your ignition system working the way it should.

Can a Check Engine Light Come On for No Reason? Here’s What It Really Means That little amber glow on your dashboard can feel like a punch to the gut, especially when your car seems to be running just fine. You start wondering if it means something serious, something expensive, or maybe nothing at all. The truth is, a check engine light almost never comes on for no reason. There is usually a cause, even when it is not obvious. Understanding what is actually happening under the hood can save you from unnecessary stress and help you avoid bigger problems down the road. What the Check Engine Light Is Actually Telling You The check engine light is part of your vehicle’s on-board diagnostics system, commonly referred to as OBD-II. This system constantly monitors your engine, exhaust system, fuel delivery, and dozens of other components. When something falls outside normal operating parameters, the system stores a diagnostic trouble code and triggers the check engine light on your dashboard. Here is the key thing to understand: the light does not tell you exactly what is wrong. It tells you that something has been flagged. You need a diagnostic tool to read the stored code and figure out what triggered it. Why Some Drivers Assume the Light Means Nothing It is easy to dismiss the check engine light when your car seems to be driving normally. The engine sounds fine, acceleration feels okay, and nothing obvious has changed. This is actually one of the most misleading situations in automotive care. Many issues, such as a failing oxygen sensor or a small exhaust gas recirculation problem, do not immediately affect how your car drives. Left unaddressed, though, they can reduce fuel efficiency, damage the catalytic converter, or lead to a much more expensive repair later on. Common Reasons the Check Engine Light Comes On There is a wide range of issues that can trigger the check engine light, and most of them fall into a few familiar categories. Loose or Faulty Gas Cap This one surprises a lot of people. A loose or cracked gas cap can allow fuel vapors to escape from the fuel tank, which disrupts the evaporative emissions system. The on-board diagnostics system detects the pressure loss and triggers the light. Tightening or replacing the cap often resolves the issue, though the light may take a drive cycle or two to reset. Oxygen Sensor Problems The oxygen sensor monitors the level of unburned oxygen in your exhaust gas. It plays a direct role in how your engine manages combustion and fuel delivery. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause your engine to run too rich or too lean, hurting fuel economy and putting unnecessary strain on the catalytic converter. Catalytic Converter Issues The catalytic converter helps reduce harmful pollutants from your vehicle’s exhaust. When it starts to fail, often because of a neglected oxygen sensor, engine misfire, or oil contamination, it can trigger a specific trouble code. Replacing a catalytic converter is one of the more costly repairs, which is exactly why catching upstream issues early matters so much. Mass Airflow Sensor Failure The mass airflow sensor measures how much air is entering the engine. This information is critical for accurate fuel delivery and combustion. When it fails, your car may experience rough idling, poor acceleration, or reduced fuel efficiency. Dirty airflow sensors are also common in vehicles that have gone too long without an air filter change. Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils Worn spark plugs or a failed ignition coil can cause misfires. Misfires can send unburned fuel into the exhaust system, which may damage the catalytic converter and increase harmful emissions. The check engine light will often flash, rather than stay steady, during an active misfire. This is a sign that you should pull over safely and get help promptly. EGR Valve Problems The exhaust gas recirculation valve, or EGR valve, recirculates a portion of exhaust gas back into the engine intake to reduce emissions and improve combustion efficiency. When this valve gets clogged or fails, it can affect engine performance and emissions. It is a commonly overlooked part that can cause a slow, gradual decline in how the vehicle runs. Can You Drive With the Check Engine Light On? The answer depends on whether the light is steady or flashing. A steady check engine light generally means the issue is present but not immediately catastrophic. You can typically drive a short distance to get the vehicle inspected, but you should not ignore it for weeks. A flashing or blinking check engine light is a different story. This usually indicates an active misfire that may be causing real-time damage to your exhaust system and catalytic converter. Driving with a flashing light puts you at risk of a more serious and more expensive repair. When in doubt, get it checked. There is no reliable way to know the severity without reading the stored code with a proper diagnostic tool. Should You Use a Parts Store to Read the Code? Many people head to an auto parts store when the check engine light comes on because some stores offer free code reads. This can be a good starting point to get a general idea of the issue. However, there is an important limitation. A code read gives you a fault code, not a full diagnosis. For example, a code pointing to the oxygen sensor might actually be caused by an exhaust leak, a wiring problem, or a weak battery or charging system issue. Chasing the code without understanding the root cause can lead to replacing parts that do not fix the problem. A trained auto mechanic has the experience and equipment to interpret those codes correctly and identify the actual source of the problem. What Happens If You Ignore the Check Engine Light? Ignoring the check engine light is a gamble. In the short term, you might not notice anything wrong. Over time, though, you risk compounding damage. For example, a

Common Drivetrain Issues and How to Fix Them Before They Get Worse Your car might feel fine one day and start shaking, grinding, or slipping the next. More often than not, the culprit is somewhere in the drivetrain issues – a complex system that transfers power from the engine to the wheels. When something goes wrong here, it rarely fixes itself. Understanding the warning signs early can save you from a much bigger repair bill down the road. What Is the Drivetrain, Exactly? The drivetrain includes every component that moves power from the engine to the tires. That means the transmission, drive shaft, axle, differential, constant-velocity joint (CV joint), universal joint, and, in four-wheel drive vehicles, the transfer case as well. Each part has a specific job, and when one wears down, the others pick up the slack – until they can’t anymore. Common Drivetrain Problems and Their Warning Signs Transmission Slipping or Hesitation One of the most frequent complaints is a transmission that slips between gears or hesitates during acceleration. You might notice the engine revving higher than usual without a matching increase in speed. This is often caused by low or degraded hydraulic fluid, worn clutch components in a manual transmission, or internal gear damage. Catching it early usually means a fluid service or minor repair. Ignoring it often means a full rebuild. Vibration While Driving If your vehicle shakes during acceleration or at highway speeds, the drive shaft or CV joint is a likely suspect. A damaged universal joint can also create a rhythmic vibration that gets worse over time. Worn tires and wheel alignment issues can mimic these symptoms, which is why a proper diagnosis matters before any parts are replaced. Clicking or Clunking Noises A clicking noise when turning is a classic sign of a failing constant-velocity joint. A clunk when shifting from park to drive often points to a worn universal joint or loose drive shaft connection. These noises are your vehicle communicating wear and tear before it becomes a breakdown. Don’t wait on these. Fluid Leaks Under the Vehicle Spotting a puddle under your car is never a good sign. Drivetrain fluid leaks can come from the transmission, differential, or transfer case. These fluids are essential for the lubrication and cooling of moving parts. A slow leak leads to low fluid levels, which accelerates wear and can eventually cause catastrophic failure. If you see a reddish or brownish fluid under your vehicle, get it checked. Dashboard Warning Lights Modern vehicles monitor drivetrain health through sensors. A check engine light or transmission warning light on your dashboard is not something to dismiss. Even a vague warning can point to a very specific issue when read with a diagnostic scanner. An auto mechanic can pull the code and pinpoint the problem quickly. What Makes Drivetrain Wear Worse? Aggressive driving habits accelerate wear on nearly every drivetrain component. Hard acceleration, late braking, and towing beyond your vehicle’s rated capacity all put extra stress on the transmission, axle, and differential. Skipping routine maintenance – like fluid changes and inspections – is another fast track to expensive repairs. Many drivetrain issues are entirely preventable with consistent upkeep. How to Stay Ahead of Drivetrain Problems Staying ahead of drivetrain issues comes down to a few consistent habits: Check for fluid leaks regularly, especially after parking overnight Pay attention to new noises, vibrations, or changes in how the vehicle shifts Follow your vehicle’s recommended maintenance schedule for transmission and differential fluid changes Have your CV joints, drive shaft, and universal joints inspected during routine service visits Address warning lights promptly rather than waiting to see if they clear on their own These steps apply whether you’re driving a daily commuter or a four-wheel drive truck that sees rougher conditions. When to See a Mechanic If you’re noticing any combination of the symptoms above – noise, vibration, leaks, or shifting problems – it’s time for a professional inspection. Drivetrain diagnosis requires the right equipment and experience to get it right the first time. Guessing at the problem and replacing parts randomly wastes money and time. Keep Your Drivetrain Running Smoothly Drivetrain problems rarely appear out of nowhere – they build slowly through wear, fluid loss, and neglect. Catching the early signs of transmission trouble, CV joint wear, or a leaking differential gives you options before the repair becomes urgent.  If your vehicle has been sending you signals you’ve been putting off, now is the time to act. Schedule a transmission inspection with the team at Newnum and Sons Garage, or call 765-793-3334 to talk through what you’re experiencing.

2WD vs 4WD vs AWD: Which Is Right for Your Driving Style? If you’ve ever stood in a dealership lot or scrolled through vehicle listings feeling completely lost when it comes to drivetrain options, you are not alone. Two-wheel drive, four-wheel drive, all-wheel drive – it sounds like alphabet soup, and the differences actually matter a lot depending on how and where you drive. Let’s break it all down in plain language so you can make a smarter decision, whether you’re buying your next car, truck, or crossover SUV. What Does “Drive” Actually Mean? Every vehicle has an engine that produces torque, and that power has to get to the wheels somehow. The drivetrain is the system that makes that happen – including the transmission, drive shaft, axle, and differential. The key question is: which wheels are actually receiving that power? That answer changes everything about how your vehicle handles traction, fuel efficiency, and performance on different road surfaces. Two-Wheel Drive (2WD): Simple, Efficient, and Underrated Two-wheel drive means only two of your vehicle’s wheels receive power from the engine. That power typically goes to either the front wheels (front-wheel drive) or the rear wheels (rear-wheel drive). Front-wheel drive is the most common setup for everyday cars and crossover SUVs. It’s generally more fuel-efficient and handles reasonably well in light snow. Most passenger sedans and family vehicles use this layout. Rear-wheel drive is popular in pickup trucks, sports cars, and performance vehicles. It tends to offer better acceleration and a more balanced driving feel, but it can struggle in slippery conditions without snow tires. The biggest advantage of two-wheel drive? Cost and simplicity. Fewer mechanical components mean less to maintain and better fuel economy overall. Four-Wheel Drive (4WD): Built for the Tough Stuff Four-wheel drive sends engine power to all four wheels simultaneously, typically through a transfer case that locks the front and rear differentials together. This setup is common in trucks and body-on-frame SUVs. Most 4WD systems are part-time, meaning you manually switch between 2WD and 4WD depending on conditions. Some systems, like those found in many pickup trucks, allow you to engage 4WD on the fly. Off-roading, muddy fields, and deep snow are where four-wheel drive really earns its reputation. One thing worth knowing: driving in 4WD on dry pavement can actually damage the drivetrain by causing binding in the gear train and differential. It’s meant for low-traction situations, not your daily commute. All-Wheel Drive (AWD): The Everyday Traction Solution An all-wheel drive vehicle continuously monitors wheel slip and automatically distributes torque to whichever wheels need it most. Unlike 4WD, you don’t flip a switch – the system handles it for you. Brands like Subaru have built entire reputations on their AWD systems, and it’s no surprise. AWD works great in light snow, rain, and mixed road conditions without requiring any input from the driver. Many modern electric vehicles and crossover SUVs also come standard with AWD by using an electric motor on each axle. The trade-off? An AWD system adds weight and mechanical complexity, which typically reduces fuel efficiency compared to a standard two-wheel drive setup. It’s also more expensive to repair when something goes wrong. So Which One Should You Choose? Here’s a practical way to think about it: Daily commuting on paved roads with occasional rain or light snow: Front-wheel drive or AWD handles this well. You likely do not need 4WD. Regular off-roading, hauling heavy loads, or navigating serious terrain: A true four-wheel drive truck or SUV with a transfer case is the right tool. Mixed conditions with a preference for automatic handling: An all-wheel drive vehicle strikes a solid balance between capability and convenience. Budget-conscious buyers or those in mild climates: Two-wheel drive keeps costs down and fuel efficiency up. Your powertrain choice should match your actual driving habits, not just sound impressive on paper. Does Your Drivetrain Affect Maintenance? Absolutely. AWD and 4WD systems involve more components – differentials, transfer cases, clutch packs – and those parts need regular service too. Skipping transmission fluid changes or ignoring drivetrain service can lead to expensive repairs down the road. Your tires also play a huge role in how well any drivetrain performs. A quality set of snow tires on a front-wheel drive car will often outperform a neglected AWD vehicle. Tire condition and wheel alignment matter more than most drivers realize. Which Drivetrain Fits Your Driving Needs? Choosing between 2WD, 4WD, and AWD comes down to your driving habits, budget, and the road conditions you face most often. There is no universally right answer – just the right answer for you. If you are unsure whether your current drivetrain system is in good shape or overdue for service, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage can help. Schedule a transmission or drivetrain inspection and get honest answers from technicians you can trust. Call us at 765-793-3334 to set up an appointment.

What Causes a Differential Whining Noise and How to Fix It Fast That high-pitched whine coming from underneath your vehicle is hard to ignore. It starts off subtly, maybe something you chalk up to road noise, but then it gets louder and more persistent. If the sound seems to follow your speed and gets worse during acceleration or turns, you are likely dealing with a differential whining noise. This is not a problem you want to put off. The differential is a critical part of your drivetrain, and when it starts making noise, it is telling you something is wrong. The good news is that once you understand what causes it, you can take the right steps to get it fixed before it turns into something much more expensive. What Is a Differential and What Does It Do? Before getting into the causes, it helps to know what the differential actually does. Simply put, the differential is a gear system that allows your wheels to rotate at different speeds, which matters most when you are turning. Without it, your tires would skip, scrub, or lose traction every time you went around a corner. Most vehicles have either a rear differential, a front differential, or both, depending on whether they are rear-wheel drive, front-wheel drive, or all-wheel drive. Inside the differential are ring gears, pinion gears, and bearings that all work together under significant stress. When any of those components start to wear down or lose lubrication, that is when the grinding and whining start. Common Causes of a Differential Whining Noise Low or Contaminated Differential Fluid This is the most common culprit, and it is also one of the easiest to overlook. Differential fluid lubricates all of those internal gears and bearings. When the fluid gets low, breaks down, or becomes contaminated with moisture or metal shavings, the gears start to grind and whine under friction. Many drivers do not realize that differential fluid needs to be changed on a regular schedule, similar to engine oil. If it has been a while since anyone checked or changed yours, this should be your first stop. Worn Pinion Bearings The pinion gear connects your driveshaft to the ring gear inside the differential. The bearings that support the pinion shaft take on a lot of stress, especially during acceleration. When those bearings wear out, they produce a whining or growling sound that tends to get louder the faster you go. A key sign of worn pinion bearings is that the noise changes noticeably when you accelerate versus when you coast or decelerate. If the whine gets louder when you press the gas and quieter when you lift off, pinion bearings are a strong suspect. Worn or Damaged Ring and Pinion Gears The ring gear and pinion gear work together as a matched set. Over time, teeth on these gears can wear unevenly, chip, or develop pitting from metal fatigue. When the gear contact pattern is off, even slightly, you get a distinct whining or howling noise that varies with vehicle speed. This type of damage is often caused by improper gear setup, running the differential low on fluid, or simply high mileage. Replacing ring and pinion gears is a more involved repair, but it is necessary when the gears themselves are the source of the problem. Worn Differential Carrier Bearings The carrier bearings support the ring gear assembly inside the differential housing. When these bearings wear down, they can produce a whining or rumbling noise that shows up at steady speeds rather than just during acceleration. Some drivers describe it as a hum that changes pitch with speed but does not go away. Carrier bearing wear can be tricky to diagnose because the noise can sometimes mimic worn wheel bearings. A proper inspection is the only reliable way to tell them apart. Improper Backlash or Gear Preload This one is more technical, but it matters. Backlash refers to the small amount of space between meshing gears, and preload refers to the tension placed on the bearings. When either of these settings is off, whether from a previous repair that was not done correctly or from normal wear, the gears do not mesh as they should, and whining is the result. This kind of issue often appears after a differential has been serviced or rebuilt by someone who did not set the tolerances correctly. It is a good reminder of why precision matters when working on drivetrain components. How to Tell the Difference Between Differential Noise and Other Noises Not every whining noise under your vehicle is the differential. Wheel bearings, worn tires, transmission issues, and even power steering problems can all produce sounds that are easy to confuse with differential noise. Here is how to start narrowing it down. Speed-dependent noise – If the whine changes pitch or intensity directly with your vehicle speed, the differential or wheel bearings are the most likely sources. Turn-related noise – If the noise gets louder when you turn left or right, that can point toward wheel bearings or the front differential in an all-wheel drive vehicle. Differential noise from a rear axle, on the other hand, tends to be more constant and speed-related rather than turn-related. Acceleration vs. coasting – A whine that shows up under load during acceleration but fades when coasting often points to pinion bearings or ring and pinion gear wear. A steady hum at cruising speeds leans more toward carrier bearings or wheel bearings. Noise location – Try to determine where the sound is coming from. A rear differential whining noise will generally feel like it is coming from the back of the vehicle. A front differential issue will sound like it originates from under the hood or the front axle area. If you are not sure, that is completely normal. These sounds can be difficult to isolate without the right diagnostic tools and experience. Can You Drive With a Whining Differential? Technically, you might be able to drive short distances

Stored Codes vs Pending Codes: Key Differences and When Each Applies That little check engine light on your dashboard can mean a dozen different things. But what many drivers do not realize is that not all diagnostic codes are created equal. When a technician connects to your vehicle’s on-board diagnostics system, they may find either a stored code or a pending code, and each tells a different story. What Are Stored Codes? A stored code, sometimes called a confirmed or hard code, means your car’s computer has detected the same fault more than once. The on-board diagnostics system logged the issue across multiple drive cycles and decided it was consistent enough to trigger the check engine light. These codes stick around until they are cleared. A stored code tied to something like a faulty oxygen sensor, a failing ignition coil, or a crankshaft position sensor issue is a clear sign that something needs attention, usually sooner rather than later. What Are Pending Codes? A pending code is essentially a warning flag the computer is still watching. It means a sensor or system threw an error once, but the fault has not repeated itself enough times to confirm a real problem. Think of it like this: your vehicle noticed something odd – maybe a slight dip in fuel economy, a brief hiccup in the ignition system, or an unusual exhaust gas reading – but it is not convinced yet. The engine may still run fine, and the check engine light may not even come on. Why the Difference Matters Ignoring a stored code is risky. Whether it points to a thermostat issue, low voltage in the electric battery circuit, or a deeper engine problem, a confirmed fault will not fix itself. Left unaddressed, it can lead to bigger repairs or failed vehicle emissions control inspections. Pending codes deserve attention too, even if they seem less urgent. A pending code, for example, might point to a fuel delivery irregularity that could quietly worsen over time. When Should You Act on Each? Stored code: Schedule a diagnostic inspection promptly. The issue is confirmed. Pending code: Monitor it closely. If it returns or the check engine light turns on, bring the vehicle in. Skipping either one is how minor sensor issues become major engine repairs. Know When Stored Codes vs Pending Codes Need Attention When your check engine light comes on, the type of code behind it shapes what happens next. Stored codes mean the problem is confirmed and needs repair. Pending codes mean your car is watching and waiting. Either way, a proper inspection gives you the clarity to make smart decisions. If you are dealing with an unfamiliar warning or want a second opinion on a diagnostic reading, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage is ready to help. Call us at 765-793-3334 to schedule your inspection today.

What Can Damage a Car Engine? 12 Costly Mistakes You Should Never Ignore Your car’s engine is one of the most complex and expensive components in any vehicle. When something goes wrong inside that internal combustion engine, you are not just looking at a minor repair – you could be staring down a bill that rivals a used car purchase. The good news is that most engine damage is preventable. Understanding what causes it is the first step toward avoiding it. Why Engine Damage Is So Easy to Miss Most drivers do not realize there is a problem until they hear a strange noise or see a warning light. By then, the damage inside the engine block, cylinders, or pistons may already be significant. The internal combustion engine relies on a precise balance of fuel, air, lubrication, and temperature control. Disrupt any one of those systems, and failure can follow quickly. 12 Things That Can Seriously Damage Your Car Engine Skipping Oil Changes Motor oil is the lifeblood of your engine. It reduces friction between moving parts, absorbs heat, and keeps deposits from building up inside the combustion chamber. When oil breaks down or runs low, metal grinds against metal. Over time, this causes irreversible wear to the engine block, pistons, and poppet valves. Ignoring an Oil Leak A slow drip can become a serious problem faster than most people expect. Running an engine low on oil raises temperatures dramatically and starves critical components of lubrication. If you notice a puddle under your car or truck, do not wait to have it checked. Overheating the Engine Your internal combustion engine cooling system exists for one reason – to keep operating temperatures in a safe range. When coolant levels drop or the radiator system fails, heat builds rapidly. Sustained overheating can warp the engine block, damage the head gasket, and cause catastrophic failure. A blown head gasket alone can cost thousands of dollars to repair. Neglecting the Coolant System Low coolant or degraded coolant is one of the most common reasons engines overheat. Over time, coolant loses its ability to regulate temperature and protect against corrosion. Flushing and replacing your coolant on schedule is a simple step that protects a very expensive system. A Failing Fuel Pump The fuel pump is responsible for delivering gasoline from the fuel tank to the engine at the correct pressure. When it weakens, the air-fuel ratio inside the combustion chamber gets thrown off. Poor fuel efficiency, hard starts, and engine misfires are all early signs of a fuel pump problem. Left unaddressed, it can cause real damage to the fuel injection system. Running on the Wrong Fuel Putting the wrong fuel in your vehicle is more common than people think. Diesel in a gasoline engine, or gasoline in a diesel engine, can destroy fuel injectors and contaminate the entire fuel system almost immediately. Even using a common ethanol fuel mixture that exceeds your vehicle’s tolerance, such as high-ethanol blends not approved for your car or SUV, can damage seals and internal components. A Worn or Broken Timing Belt The timing belt, also called the camshaft timing belt, keeps the engine’s valves and pistons moving in perfect sync. When it fails, pistons can slam into open valves. This is one of the quickest ways to cause catastrophic engine failure. Most manufacturers recommend replacing it well before it breaks – check your owner’s manual for the interval. Ignoring the Check Engine Light Many drivers treat the check engine light as background noise. But that light can signal everything from a misfiring ignition coil to a failing catalytic converter or a problem with the exhaust system. Driving with a lit check engine light for weeks or months can turn a minor fix into major engine damage. Water or Hydrolock Water does not compress the way fuel and air do inside a cylinder. When water enters the engine, it can cause hydrolock – where a piston tries to compress a liquid-filled chamber and bends or breaks a connecting rod. Even driving through a deep puddle can pull water through the intake. The damage can be severe and sudden. Sludge Buildup from Neglected Maintenance Skipping oil changes does not just cause friction damage – it leads to thick, tar-like sludge forming inside the engine. This coke-like buildup restricts oil flow and slowly suffocates your engine’s moving parts. Toyota and other manufacturers have issued warnings about sludge-related engine failures tied directly to missed maintenance intervals. Regular oil changes are your best defense. A Clogged or Damaged Exhaust System The exhaust system does more than carry exhaust gas away from the engine. It regulates backpressure, which affects how efficiently the engine breathes and burns fuel. A blocked catalytic converter or damaged exhaust component can reduce fuel efficiency, cause rough running, and eventually put strain on internal engine components. Ignoring Strange Noises and Small Leaks Knocking, ticking, hissing – none of these sounds are normal. Small leaks from gaskets or seals may seem harmless, but can compound into much bigger failures over time. Early diagnosis almost always results in a smaller repair bill. Waiting until the engine gives out rarely happens. Small Problems Become Big Repairs Fast The pattern across all 12 of these issues is the same. A small problem – low oil, a worn belt, a slow coolant leak – gets ignored. The damage quietly builds inside the engine block. Then one day the car does not start, or worse, it fails on the road. Routine maintenance is not just about keeping your vehicle running. It is about protecting yourself from repairs that could cost you more than the car is worth. How to Protect Your Engine Before Damage Starts Engine damage rarely happens all at once – it builds from small, ignored problems. Whether it is low motor oil, a compromised head gasket, or a worn timing belt, the cost of waiting almost always exceeds the cost of prevention.  If your car or truck is making unusual noises, running

7 Warning Signs Of A Bad Wheel Bearing You Shouldn’t Ignore Your car depends on dozens of moving parts working together, and wheel bearings are some of the most important ones you rarely think about. These small but mighty components are located inside the hub of each wheel, supporting the weight of the vehicle and allowing the wheels to spin smoothly. When a bearing starts to fail, it can affect your safety in ways that go beyond a strange noise. Knowing the signs of a bad wheel bearing early can save you from costly repairs and keep your ride safe on the road. What Does A Wheel Bearing Actually Do? A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls or rollers housed inside a ring called a race, located inside the hub assembly. Its job is to carry the weight of your vehicle while reducing friction so the wheel can rotate freely. Most vehicles today use sealed bearing assemblies, meaning they do not require regular greasing. But they do wear out over time, especially after hitting a pothole or driving on rough roads. 7 Warning Signs Your Wheel Bearing Is Going Bad A Humming, Growling, Or Howling Noise The most common sign is a humming noise that increases with speed. Some drivers describe it as a growl or even a howl, especially at highway speeds. This wheel bearing noise often gets louder as the vehicle accelerates and may shift in tone when you change lanes or turn slightly.  Do not confuse it with tire noise – the sound gets louder as the bearing wears down further. Vibration While Driving Feeling vibration through the floorboard or steering wheel while driving is another key warning. A failing bearing creates instability at the axle, which sends vibration up through the suspension and into the cabin. This feeling tends to get worse at high speeds. Wobble Or Excessive Play In The Wheel If you jack up your car and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, any wobble or excessive play in the wheel is a red flag. Worn-out bearings lose their preload and allow movement that should not be there. A healthy bearing holds the wheel firm with no detectable play. Uneven Tire Wear A damaged wheel bearing can cause the wheel to sit at a slight angle, leading to uneven tire wear on one side. If you notice uneven wear patterns that do not match alignment issues, inspect your wheel bearings before assuming it is just an alignment problem. ABS Warning Light On Your Dashboard Many vehicles use a wheel speed sensor built directly into the bearing assembly. When the bearing is bad, it can disrupt the sensor signal and trigger the ABS warning light on your dashboard. This ties directly to the anti-lock braking system and traction control system, meaning a faulty wheel bearing can affect your ability to brake safely. Never ignore an ABS or traction control warning. Pulling During Braking A worn-out or damaged bearing can cause the wheel to pull to one side when you apply the brake. This happens because the bearing affects how evenly the brake rotor sits against the brake pads. If you notice pulling during brake repair inspections, ask the technician to also check the bearing. Looseness In The Steering Excessive play in the steering or a steering wheel that feels less responsive than usual can point to a failing wheel bearing. The bearing supports the wheel hub assembly, and when it degrades, it can affect steering precision and automobile handling. This is especially noticeable at lower speeds or when parking. How Long Can You Drive On A Bad Bearing? This is a question worth taking seriously. The longer you wait, the more the bearing wears down and the more it can damage surrounding parts like the CV joint, brake rotors, and hub assembly.  In serious cases, a bad bearing can cause the wheel to seize or separate from the vehicle entirely – a major accident risk. Wheel bearings last anywhere from 85,000 to 100,000 miles under normal conditions, but rough roads and heavy loads can shorten that significantly. If you are noticing any of these wheel bearing symptoms, do not delay a proper inspection. What To Expect With Wheel Bearing Replacement Wheel bearing replacement costs vary depending on the vehicle and whether the bearing is press-in or a hub unit. It is not typically the most expensive auto repair, but it becomes more costly if you wait, since related damage can compound. Knowing your car and acting early on warning signs keeps replacement costs reasonable. Conclusion A bad wheel bearing does not announce itself loudly at first – it starts subtly and gets worse.  Whether you are hearing a humming noise, feeling vibrations, or noticing uneven wear, these signs that a wheel bearing is going bad deserve prompt attention. The team at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, is ready to help with honest diagnostics and quality repairs. Call us at 765-793-3334 to schedule your inspection and stay ahead of bigger problems.

Engine Coolant Over Temperature? What to Do When the Engine Coolant Over Temperature Light Comes On Few things are more alarming than glancing at your dashboard and seeing a warning light you do not recognize – or worse, one you do recognize. The engine coolant over temperature warning is one of those lights that demands your immediate attention. Ignore it, and you could be looking at serious, expensive damage to your vehicle.   The good news is that if you act quickly and know what to do, you can often prevent the worst from happening. This guide walks you through exactly what that warning means, why it comes on, and what steps to take right away. What Does the Engine Coolant Over Temperature Warning Mean? Your car’s engine runs hot – very hot. Combustion inside the engine block generates enormous amounts of heat, and your vehicle’s cooling system exists for one reason: to manage that heat and keep your engine running within a safe operating temperature range. Coolant (also called antifreeze) is the fluid that does the heavy lifting here. It absorbs heat from the engine, carries it through the radiator, and returns cooled fluid back to the engine in a continuous loop. When something disrupts that flow of coolant, your engine temperature climbs beyond safe levels. The engine coolant over temperature warning light – sometimes called the coolant over temp light or the temperature warning light – is your vehicle’s way of telling you that the engine is overheating and that the cooling system needs attention right now. What Does the Warning Light Look Like? The temperature warning light typically looks like a thermometer submerged in liquid. On some vehicles, it may appear red or amber. You might also notice the temp gauge on your dashboard climbing toward the red zone, or in some cases, a check engine light may accompany it. Do not wait for the temperature gauge to max out before taking action. The moment the dashboard warning lights come on, it is time to respond. Why Is My Engine Overheating? Common Causes Understanding why an overheating engine happens can help you have a more informed conversation with your technician. Here are the most common culprits. Low Coolant Level This is the most frequent cause. If your coolant level drops too low – due to a coolant leak or simple evaporation over time – there is not enough fluid in the system to absorb and transfer heat away from the engine. A low coolant level should always be investigated, not just topped off, because there is usually a reason the fluid went down. A Coolant Leak A leak anywhere in the cooling system can cause rapid fluid loss. Common leak points include radiator hoses, the radiator itself, the water pump, and connections near the heater core. In some cases, a leaking head gasket can allow coolant to mix with engine oil, which is a serious problem that can lead to a warped cylinder head and major engine damage if left unaddressed. A Faulty Thermostat The thermostat controls the flow of coolant between the engine and radiator. When it gets stuck closed, coolant cannot circulate properly, and heat builds up fast. A faulty thermostat is one of the more straightforward fixes but can cause the engine to overheat quickly if not addressed. Water Pump Problems The water pump keeps coolant moving through the entire system. If the pump fails or becomes weak, coolant flow slows or stops. Without that circulation, heat from the engine has nowhere to go. Radiator Issues A clogged or damaged radiator cannot transfer heat effectively. A clog in the radiator restricts coolant from moving through and dissipating heat. Similarly, a damaged radiator cap can allow pressure to escape, lowering the boiling point of the coolant and making overheating more likely. Faulty Sensors or Wiring Sometimes the engine is not actually overheating – a faulty temp sensor or temperature sensor is sending incorrect data to your dashboard. While this is a less dangerous scenario, it still requires a proper diagnosis to rule out a real problem. A malfunction in the sensor circuit can trigger false warnings, and you should never assume that is the cause without having it inspected. Blocked Airflow The radiator fan and airflow through the front of the vehicle help cool the coolant as it passes through the radiator. If the radiator fan is not working or airflow is restricted, the cooling system struggles – especially in slow traffic or when there is a high load on the engine like towing or running the air conditioning on a hot day. What to Do Immediately When the Light Comes On This is not the time to push through and hope for the best. Here is what you should do, step by step. Step 1: Pull over as soon as safely possible. Pull over to a safe location away from traffic as soon as possible. Continuing to drive with an overheating engine dramatically increases the risk of permanent damage. Step 2: Turn off the engine. Turn off the engine as soon as you are parked. This stops combustion and allows the engine to cool down without adding more heat to the system. Step 3: Do not open the hood immediately. What might look like smoke coming from the engine compartment could actually be steam from boiling coolant. Opening the hood too soon can expose you to extreme heat and pressure. Wait several minutes before opening the hood. Step 4: Allow the engine to cool. Let it cool for at least 15 to 20 minutes before doing anything. Do not attempt to open the radiator cap or overflow tank while the engine is still hot. Pressure buildup inside a hot cooling system can cause serious burns. Step 5: Check your coolant level once the engine has cooled. Once the engine has cooled, carefully open the hood and locate the coolant reservoir. Check whether the fluid is at the proper level. If the radiator or overflow