Newnum and Sons Garage

7 Signs of Car Water Pump Failure You Shouldn’t Ignore Your car’s water pump is one of those parts that quietly does its job until the day it doesn’t. And when it stops working, the consequences hit fast. We’re talking overheating, blown gaskets, and in the worst cases, a seized engine block that costs more to fix than the car is worth. The good news? Your vehicle almost always gives you warning signs before things go that far. You just have to know what to look for. What Does the Water Pump Actually Do? The water pump is the heart of your internal combustion engine cooling system. Its job is simple but critical: it keeps coolant circulating between the engine and the radiator so your engine stays at the right temperature. When coolant flows properly, heat gets transferred away from the engine block and expelled through the radiator. When the pump fails, that flow stops, and heat builds up fast. Your engine wasn’t designed to handle that kind of punishment. Signs of Car Water Pump Failure You Should Never Ignore 1. Coolant Leaks Under Your Car One of the earliest signs of car water pump failure is a puddle of coolant forming underneath the front of your vehicle. Coolant is usually green, orange, or pink, and it has a slightly sweet smell that’s hard to miss. The water pump uses gaskets and seals to keep coolant contained under pressure. As wear and tear adds up over time, those seals degrade and allow coolant to escape. If you notice a puddle that keeps coming back, don’t write it off as nothing. 2. Whining or Grinding Noise Near the Engine A failing water pump often announces itself with noise. If you hear a high-pitched whining or a low grinding sound coming from the front of the engine, that’s a red flag worth taking seriously. The culprit is usually a worn bearing inside the pump or a damaged pulley that’s no longer spinning correctly. As the bearing deteriorates, it creates friction and vibration that produces that unmistakable noise. This is a mechanical problem that won’t fix itself, and it tends to get worse quickly. 3. Engine Overheating This one should send you straight to a mechanic. If your temperature gauge is climbing toward the red zone or you’re seeing warning lights on the dashboard, your cooling system may already be struggling. Without a functioning pump, coolant can’t do its job. The engine block absorbs heat with nowhere for it to go. Driving on an overheating engine, even for a short time, can warp cylinder heads or destroy gaskets in ways that make a simple pump replacement look cheap by comparison. 4. Steam or Smoke Coming From Under the Hood Steam rising from under the hood is not just an annoyance. It’s a sign that coolant is either leaking onto hot engine components or that your engine has already crossed into dangerous temperature territory. Smoke combined with heat means the situation has moved past a warning and into an emergency. Pull over safely, turn off the engine, and let it cool before doing anything else. Driving through it is how minor problems become catastrophic ones. 5. Coolant Reservoir Keeps Running Low If you’re regularly topping off the coolant reservoir but can’t find a visible leak, the pump seals may be the problem. Coolant could be burning off internally or escaping in small amounts that evaporate before you spot them on the ground. A healthy cooling system doesn’t consume coolant. If you’re losing it consistently, something is wrong, and the water pump is a logical place to start the investigation. 6. Corrosion or Rust Around the Pump Sometimes the signs aren’t sounds or smells but visual. A physical inspection of the pump can reveal pitting, rust, or crusty mineral buildup around the housing. These are signs that coolant has been seeping past the seals gradually, even when you haven’t noticed a visible leak. This kind of wear often signals that the pump is close to the end of its usable life. What Makes Water Pumps Wear Out? Age and mileage are the biggest factors. Most pumps last somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, though that range varies depending on the vehicle and how well the cooling system has been maintained. Using the wrong type of coolant, neglecting flushes, or running low on fluid all accelerate wear and tear significantly. In some vehicles, the water pump is driven by the timing belt. When the timing belt is due for replacement, it often makes sense to replace the pump at the same time since the labor overlaps and skipping it can cost you more down the road. Why Acting Fast Actually Saves You Money A water pump replacement is not a cheap repair, but it’s far less expensive than what comes next if you let it go. Engine damage from overheating can mean head gasket failure, cracked components, or a complete engine replacement. Treating cooling system issues as minor inconveniences is one of the most common and costly mistakes vehicle owners make. The oil keeps parts lubricated, but the cooling system keeps everything from melting down. Both need to be in working order. What to Do When You Notice Water Pump Failure Signs If your car is showing any of these signs, take them seriously before the situation turns into an expensive lesson. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the team specializes in radiator system diagnostics and repairs, including water pump replacement. They’ll tell you exactly what’s going on before any work begins, with no surprises on the bill. Call 765-793-3334 to schedule a cooling system inspection and keep your engine running the way it should.

What Really Happens If You Skip an Oil Change Most drivers know they should get their oil changed regularly. But life gets busy, the reminder sticker on the windshield fades, and suddenly you’re a few thousand miles past due. It feels harmless enough. After all, the car still starts, still drives, still seems fine. Here is the problem: what happens if you skip an oil change is not always immediate. The damage builds quietly, and by the time you notice something is wrong, your engine has already paid a steep price. What Motor Oil Actually Does Inside Your Engine Motor oil is not just a fluid you top off and forget. It is the lifeblood of your engine, doing several critical jobs at once. Its primary purpose is lubrication – reducing friction between the hundreds of moving metal parts inside your engine so they can work together without grinding each other down. Beyond reducing friction, oil also carries heat away from engine components that would otherwise overheat. It suspends dirt, debris, and combustion byproducts so the oil filter can trap them before they cause damage. Fresh motor oil handles all of this well. But oil degrades over time, and that is where the trouble starts. What Happens When You Skip an Oil Change The Oil Breaks Down and Loses Its Power Over time and miles, motor oil breaks down. The protective additives that give it its lubricating strength get depleted. Heat cycles, moisture, and contamination from the combustion process all degrade the oil’s ability to do its job. When you push past your change interval, you are essentially running your engine on a lubricant that no longer lubricates as well as it should. Metal parts begin to wear against each other with less protection. That wear and tear, while gradual, adds up fast. Sludge Starts to Form One of the most damaging things that can happen when oil goes stale is sludge formation. Sludge is a thick, gel-like substance that forms when old, degraded oil mixes with moisture and combustion residue. It sticks to engine surfaces and clogs narrow oil passages. Once sludge builds up, even fresh oil has trouble reaching critical engine components. Parts that depend on a steady flow of clean oil start running dry or with inadequate lubrication. This accelerates wear at a rate that even high-quality synthetic oil cannot fully reverse once the sludge is established. Heat Builds Up, and Components Start to Fail Fresh oil helps regulate engine temperature by carrying heat away from the combustion zone. Old, degraded oil loses this ability. When heat has nowhere to go, temperatures inside the engine climb higher than they should. Prolonged high heat warps metal, damages seals, and causes gaskets to fail. The risk of a blown head gasket or cracked engine block increases significantly when oil changes are skipped repeatedly. These are not cheap fixes – they can cost thousands of dollars and, in some cases, total a vehicle entirely. Your Fuel Economy Takes a Hit Here is something most drivers do not connect to their oil change schedule: fuel efficiency. When engine components are not properly lubricated, friction increases. The engine has to work harder to do the same amount of work, and that means burning more gas in the process. If you have noticed your car visiting the gas pump more often without a change in your driving habits, degraded oil could be a contributing factor. Maintaining clean oil is one of the simplest ways to protect your fuel economy without spending a dime on aftermarket upgrades. How Long Can You Actually Go Between Oil Changes? This depends on your vehicle, your oil type, and your driving conditions. A conventional oil vehicle in older model years was often serviced every 3,000 miles, though modern engines using synthetic oil can often go 5,000 to 10,000 miles or more between changes. The key word is “can” – not “should push to the absolute limit.” Your vehicle’s owner’s manual is the most reliable guide, but your driving conditions matter too. Frequent short trips, dusty environments, towing, or stop-and-go traffic all accelerate oil degradation. In those cases, more frequent changes make sense even if the mileage has not hit the recommended number. What About Oil Filter Replacement? Some people change the oil but skip the oil filter, or vice versa. That is a mistake. The oil filter traps contaminants that would otherwise circulate through the engine. A clogged or bypassed filter sends those particles right back into the oil supply, defeating the purpose of a fresh oil change. At Newnum and Sons Garage, every oil change service includes proper attention to the filter as well, so you are not getting a half-measure job that leaves contamination behind. Does Skipping an Oil Change Affect Your Warranty? If your vehicle is still under a manufacturer’s warranty, this matters more than you might think. Most warranties require documented proof of regular maintenance, including oil changes at recommended intervals. Skip too many services or fail to keep records, and you could find yourself in a situation where a mechanical failure is not covered because maintenance was not kept up. That warranty protection you are paying for indirectly through your vehicle purchase can disappear quickly if the maintenance log is missing. Why Covington Drivers Trust Newnum and Sons Garage for Oil Service There are plenty of quick-lube options out there that can get you in and out fast. But fast is not always thorough. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the approach is different. The technicians here actually know your vehicle because they service the whole car, not just the oil. They can spot a leak, a worn belt, or a fluid level that is heading toward trouble – things a quick-stop shop often misses because they are not looking. Newnum and Sons also offers online maintenance schedules, so you never have to guess when your next service is due. And every estimate is explained upfront before any work begins.

Why Is My Temperature Gauge Fluctuating Between Hot and Normal If you have ever glanced at your dashboard and noticed the temperature gauge swinging between hot and normal, you know that unsettling feeling. It is not something to brush off. That needle moving up and down is your car trying to tell you something is wrong with the engine cooling system, and ignoring it can lead to serious damage. What Does a Temperature Gauge Actually Do? Think of the temperature gauge as a thermometer for your engine. It reads the coolant temperature inside the engine and reports it to your dashboard. When everything is working correctly, the needle should settle in the middle and stay there. If it is fluctuating, something is disrupting how your vehicle manages heat. Common Reasons Your Temperature Gauge Keeps Moving A Failing Thermostat The thermostat is one of the most common culprits. It controls how coolant flows between the engine and the radiator. When the thermostat sticks open or closed, coolant flow becomes inconsistent, which causes the temperature to spike and drop repeatedly. A stuck thermostat is a relatively affordable fix, but leaving it alone can cause serious engine overheating. Low Coolant or an Antifreeze Leak If your coolant level is low, the engine cannot regulate its temperature properly. This can happen due to a slow leak from a hose, a cracked radiator, or even a failing head gasket. A blown head gasket is more serious because it can allow combustion gases to enter the cooling system, creating air pockets that disrupt pressure and temperature stability. Radiator Problems A clogged or damaged radiator cannot efficiently remove heat from the engine. Debris buildup, corrosion, or a bent fin can all reduce the radiator’s ability to do its job. When the radiator struggles, heat builds up inconsistently, and you will see that needle bouncing around. A Bad Coolant Temperature Sensor Sometimes the gauge itself is not reading accurately. A faulty coolant temperature sensor can send incorrect signals to the vehicle’s computer, making the gauge appear to fluctuate even when the actual temperature is steady. This is worth diagnosing before assuming the worst. A Failing Cooling Fan The cooling fan helps pull air through the radiator when the car is idling or moving slowly. If the fan is not functioning correctly, the engine can overheat during low-speed driving but cool down at higher speeds when airflow increases naturally. This creates exactly the kind of up-and-down reading many drivers notice. Should You Keep Driving? The short answer is no. Driving a car or truck with a fluctuating temperature gauge risks serious damage to the internal combustion engine, including warped cylinder heads and gasket failure. Pull over safely, let the engine cool, and check the coolant level only if you can do so safely. Do not remove the radiator cap while the engine is hot, as the pressure inside can cause severe burns. Why Routine Maintenance Matters Many of these issues are preventable with regular maintenance. Keeping up with coolant flushes, inspecting hoses, and monitoring your radiator system can catch small problems before they turn into expensive repairs. What to Do About a Fluctuating Temperature Gauge A fluctuating temperature gauge is a warning sign your engine is struggling to manage heat. Whether it is a failing thermostat, a coolant leak, a bad sensor, or a damaged radiator, getting a proper diagnosis quickly protects your engine from serious harm. If your gauge is behaving strangely, the team at Newnum and Sons Garage is ready to help. Schedule an inspection for your radiator system today or call us at 765-793-3334 to speak with a technician.

The Real Reason for Brakes Squeaking That squealing sound coming from your wheels the moment you press the brake pedal is hard to ignore. It’s sharp, embarrassing at a red light, and just unsettling enough to make you wonder if something serious is about to go wrong. The good news is that your car is actually doing its job by warning you. The not-so-good news is that the warning usually means your brake pads are due for attention. Understanding why brakes squeak – and what that sound is actually telling you – can save you money, keep you safer on the road, and help you make smarter decisions about your vehicle’s maintenance. What Is That Squeaking Sound, Really? The noise you’re hearing isn’t random. Most modern brake systems are designed with a small metal wear indicator tab built directly into the brake pad. When the pad material wears down to a certain point, that metal tab makes contact with the brake rotor – the large disc that the pad clamps against to slow your car. The friction between the metal tab and the spinning rotor creates that distinctive high-pitched squeal. Think of it as a built-in alarm system. The mechanics who engineered modern disc brake systems didn’t want drivers to be caught off guard. That sound is intentional, and it’s telling you one clear thing: it’s time for an inspection. The Main Culprit – Worn Brake Pads Brake pads are the workhorse of your braking system. Every time you slow down, the pad presses against the rotor and converts your vehicle’s kinetic energy into heat through friction. Over time, the pad material – typically a composite of metal fibers, rubber, and other compounds – gradually wears down. New brake pads typically start with about 10 to 12 millimeters of usable material. Most technicians recommend replacing them when they wear down to around 3 to 4 millimeters. By the time that metal wear indicator is screaming at you, you’re probably already close to or at that threshold. Ignoring the sound doesn’t make it cheaper. If worn pads go unreplaced, the metal backing plate eventually contacts the rotor directly, causing deep scoring, vibration through the pedal, and significantly higher repair costs. Other Reasons Your Brakes Might Squeak Worn pads are the most common reason, but they’re not the only one. A few other causes are worth knowing. Morning Squeaks After Rain or Cold Weather Moisture and weather play a bigger role than most drivers realize. Overnight, a thin layer of rust can form on your brake rotors – especially if your car sits outside. When you first drive in the morning, that rust gets scraped off by the brake pads, creating a brief squeaking or grinding sound. This is normal and usually clears up within the first few stops. Dust and Debris Between the Pad and Rotor Dirt, road debris, and dust can get trapped between the pad and the rotor surface. When this happens, the contact isn’t clean and smooth, and the result is noise. This kind of squeak tends to come and go depending on your road conditions and is often harmless – but it’s still worth having checked if it persists. Low-Quality or Glazed Brake Pads Not all brake pads are made equally. Budget-quality pads sometimes contain higher metal content, which makes them naturally noisier. Glazed pads – pads that have been overheated and hardened on the surface – can also produce a squealing sound even when there’s still material left. Glazed pads usually need to be replaced, although proper lubrication of the brake hardware can sometimes help. Issues with Drum Brakes If your vehicle still has drum brakes on the rear axle, the squeak may originate there. Drum brake systems work differently than disc brakes – they use brake shoes pressed outward against the inside of a drum. Dust and debris buildup inside the drum, or worn brake shoes, can both produce squeaking. Drum brakes are less common on modern cars but still appear on many trucks and older vehicles. When Squeaking Becomes Something More Serious There’s a meaningful difference between a squeak and a grind. Squeaking is a warning. Grinding usually means the warning has been ignored long enough that metal is now contacting metal without any pad material in between. If you’re noticing vibration through the brake pedal, pulling to one side when you stop, or a grinding sensation, the situation has moved past a simple pad replacement. At that stage, rotor damage is likely, and the repair scope – and cost – grows considerably. A drop in brake fluid level can also accompany worn pads. As pads wear down, the caliper pistons extend further, and the brake fluid reservoir compensates by lowering. If your fluid is consistently low, that’s another signal pointing to wear and tear that needs professional attention. What a Proper Brake Inspection Actually Covers A thorough brake inspection goes beyond just glancing at the pads. A skilled technician will check the thickness of the brake pads and shoes, inspect the rotors for scoring or uneven wear, examine the calipers and hardware for proper function, check lubrication points on the brake assembly, look for any fluid leaks around the wheel cylinders or calipers, and evaluate the condition of the brake fluid itself. Proactive inspection during routine service visits, like oil changes, is a simple way to catch wear early before the metal-on-metal stage. How Long Do Brake Pads Actually Last? There’s no single answer because driving habits vary so much. City driving with frequent stops wears pads faster than highway driving. Aggressive braking, carrying heavy loads, and road trip driving with long downhill stretches all accelerate wear. As a general guideline, most brake pads last somewhere between 25,000 and 65,000 miles. That’s a wide range, but the point is that mileage alone isn’t the only factor. Annual inspections are a smarter way to track pad life than relying on mileage estimates. If you hear that squeak and you’ve been putting off a

Common Problems After Replacing Crankshaft Position Sensor You did everything right. You diagnosed the issue, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and expected your car to run smoothly again. But now it’s still stalling, hesitating, or throwing the same fault code. What gives? This is more common than most people expect, and the good news is there’s usually a clear reason why. Why Replacing the Sensor Doesn’t Always Fix the Problem The crankshaft position sensor plays a critical role in telling your engine control unit exactly where the crankshaft is in its rotation. That information is used to control fuel injection timing, ignition, and overall engine speed in revolutions per minute. When the sensor fails, the engine loses that data – and things go sideways fast. But here’s the thing: the sensor itself is sometimes the last piece of the puzzle, not the first. The New Sensor Might Not Be the Right One Not every replacement part is created equal. A low-quality sensor can fail quickly or send inaccurate signals to the computer. A qualified technician will verify the sensor’s output directly before calling the job done. The Wiring or Electrical Connector Could Be Damaged One of the most overlooked causes of continued stalling after a sensor replacement is damaged electrical wiring. The original sensor may have failed because of corrosion, a frayed wire, or a loose electrical connector – not because the sensor itself wore out. If the underlying wiring issue isn’t fixed, the new sensor will suffer the same fate. Corrosion on the connector pins is especially sneaky. It can cause intermittent signal loss that the on-board diagnostics system reads as a bad sensor, even when the sensor is functioning correctly. Other Causes of Stalling That Mimic a Bad Crankshaft Sensor If your vehicle is still acting up after the replacement, consider that something else may be contributing to the symptoms. Camshaft Position Sensor Issues The camshaft position sensor works in close coordination with the crankshaft sensor. If one is off or failing, the engine control unit can misread timing data, leading to rough acceleration, stalling, or engine knocking. It’s worth having both inspected together. Fuel System Problems A weak fuel pump or fuel delivery issue can cause symptoms that look almost identical to a bad crankshaft sensor. If the engine is starved for fuel at certain speeds or loads, it will hesitate or stall – even if every sensor in the system is working perfectly. Electric Battery and Charging System Faults A low or unstable voltage from the electric battery can interfere with sensor signals. The computer depends on clean, stable power to interpret sensor data correctly. Voltage drops can cause false readings that trigger fault codes and unpredictable engine behavior. What a Proper Diagnosis Actually Looks Like A real diagnosis isn’t just swapping a part and hoping for the best. A trained technician will use live data from the on-board diagnostics system to watch the crankshaft and camshaft sensor signals in real time during acceleration and idle. They’ll inspect the electrical wiring, check the fuel pump output, test the battery, and compare the noise pattern of any engine knocking against known failure signatures. Jumping straight to a part replacement without that full-picture inspection – sometimes called a “parts cannon” approach – wastes money and leaves the real problem untouched. Still Having Issues? Get It Diagnosed the Right Way If your vehicle is still stalling after a crankshaft position sensor replacement, the answer isn’t another new sensor. It’s a proper inspection that looks at the whole system, including wiring, connectors, the camshaft sensor, fuel delivery, and the health of the engine control unit itself. Why Your Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement Still Didn’t Fix the Problem Continued stalling after replacing the crankshaft position sensor usually points to something deeper – damaged wiring, corrosion, a failing fuel pump, or a related sensor issue. Guessing costs more in the long run. If your vehicle is still giving you trouble, schedule a professional electrical system inspection at Newnum and Sons Garage. Our technicians use the right tools and the right process to find what’s actually wrong. Call us at 765-793-3334 and let’s get your car running the way it should.

Tire Plug vs Tire Patch: Only One Seals for Good You’re driving along, and suddenly the car starts pulling to one side. You pull over, and sure enough – a flat tire. Now what? If someone tells you they can “just plug it,” you might wonder if that’s actually good enough. Or maybe you’ve heard that a patch is the right fix, but you’re not sure why. The truth is, both methods exist for a reason – but they are not equal. One is a quick field fix. The other is a permanent repair. Knowing the difference can protect your vehicle, your wallet, and everyone riding with you. What Is a Tire Plug? A tire plug is exactly what it sounds like. It is a small, pliable strip – usually made from a rubber compound similar to natural rubber – that gets pushed directly into a puncture hole from the outside of the tire. The process involves a tool called a reamer, which roughens the inside of the hole, and then a plug is threaded through. No dismounting the tire. No removing it from the wheel. It is fast, cheap, and part of many roadside repair kits. The problem is that a plug works from the outside in. It does not let a technician see the inside of the tire. That means any internal damage – cracks, belt separation, or structural integrity issues – goes completely undetected. When a Plug Might Be Used A plug is best understood as a temporary solution. It can get you off the shoulder of the road and to a shop safely. But it was never designed to be a final repair, and most tire manufacturers will not honor a warranty on a tire that was repaired with a plug only. What Is a Tire Patch? A tire patch is applied from the inside of the tire. To do this properly, a technician must dismount the tire from the wheel entirely. They clean the damaged area, apply a bonding adhesive, and press a patch – usually a rubber- or steel-reinforced piece – firmly over the puncture. This method actually seals the leak from the inside out. It also gives the mechanic a clear view of the interior of the tire, so they can check for any hidden damage that might cause a blowout down the road. Why Patches Hold Better The adhesive used in a proper patch repair creates a bond that holds up against changes in cold inflation, pressure, heat, and the stress of everyday driving. It maintains the tire’s structural integrity far better than a plug alone. Most tire and auto mechanic associations recognize the patch as the industry standard for a reason. The Best of Both Worlds: Plug-Patch Combo Here is where it gets interesting. The most reliable repair available is a combination plug-patch, sometimes called a mushroom patch. This repair plugs the puncture channel and patches the inner liner at the same time. This repair plugs the puncture channel and patches the inner liner at the same time. It is what a qualified technician will use when the goal is a lasting, safe fix. It addresses both the hole and the seal in one step, which is why it is widely considered the only method that “seals for good.” What Makes a Tire Repairable at All? Not every flat tire can be fixed – regardless of the method. Here are the general rules that determine whether a repair is even safe: The puncture must be in the central tread area, not on the tire shoulder or sidewall The hole should be no larger than 1/4 inch in diameter The tire must not have significant tread wear, internal damage, or prior improper repairs The tire-pressure monitoring system should be checked after any repair to ensure it reads correctly If any of these conditions are not met, the safest answer is a full tire replacement. Plug vs Patch: A Quick Comparison Feature Tire Plug Tire Patch Plug-Patch Combo   Applied from inside No Yes Yes Requires dismounting No Yes Yes Seals inner liner No Yes Yes Permanent fix No Yes Yes Warranty-safe Rarely Often Yes Typical cost Low Moderate Moderate The cost difference between a plug and a proper patch or combo repair is usually small. The difference in safety and long-term reliability is significant. Why You Should Not Skip the Shop It can be tempting to grab a repair kit from an auto parts store and handle it yourself. Those kits often come with a plug tool and a small canister of sealant. They work in an emergency – but they are not a substitute for a proper inspection. A trained auto mechanic will check not just the puncture itself but also the tire tread depth, the overall condition of the tire, and whether the vehicle’s alignment or suspension may have contributed to the issue. Catching a problem early saves money and keeps your car safe on the road. Which Tire Repair Holds Up Best? A tire plug is a temporary fix, while a patch or plug-patch combo is the only repair that genuinely seals a tire for the long haul. If you have a flat tire and want it done right, bring your vehicle in for a professional tire inspection. The team at Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN is ready to assess the damage honestly and recommend the safest repair. Call 765-793-3334 to schedule your visit today.

7 Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt You are driving down the road and suddenly hear a high-pitched squeal coming from under the hood. It is easy to assume the worst, but more often than not, that noise is your car trying to tell you something specific. The serpentine belt is one of the most common culprits behind that kind of sound, and ignoring it can lead to much bigger problems down the road. What Is a Serpentine Belt and Why Does It Matter? The serpentine belt is a long, winding belt that connects your engine to several critical components all at once. Unlike older vehicles that used multiple individual belts, most modern cars use one serpentine belt to drive the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and sometimes the coolant pump. Think of it as the engine’s workhorse. If it wears out or snaps, your alternator stops charging the electric battery, your steering becomes stiff, and your A/C stops cooling – all because of one belt. Common Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt Squealing or Chirping Noises The most obvious symptom is a loud squeal or chirp coming from the engine bay. This noise often happens when the belt slips on a pulley due to wear, misalignment, or a faulty tensioner. You may notice it most when you first start the vehicle or when you turn the steering wheel sharply. Power Steering Feels Heavy If your steering suddenly feels much heavier than usual, the serpentine belt may no longer be turning the power steering pump properly. This is a safety issue that should not be ignored. Driving with compromised steering puts you and everyone around you at risk. Battery Warning Light on the Dashboard When the serpentine belt is failing, the alternator may not be generating enough power to keep the electric battery charged. You might notice the battery warning light appear on your dashboard, or your car may struggle to start. This is your vehicle telling you the charging system is no longer working as it should. Air Conditioning Stops Working The A/C compressor depends on the serpentine belt to operate. If the belt is cracked, worn, or slipping, you may notice warm air blowing through your vents even when the A/C is set to max. This is a less obvious symptom but a telling one. Visible Cracking or Fraying on the Belt Sometimes the inspection is as simple as looking. A belt that shows visible cracks, fraying, or glazing on the surface is past its service life. Service intervals vary, but most belts are designed to last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. If you have not had yours checked in a while, it is worth a look. What Causes a Serpentine Belt to Go Bad? Wear is the most natural cause. Over time, heat from the engine causes the rubber to harden and crack. A worn or seized pulley can also accelerate belt damage by creating uneven friction. Misalignment in the belt system is another common issue, and a bad tensioner can cause slipping even on a relatively new belt. Some people reach for a screwdriver to poke around or try to do a quick visual check on their own, and that is fine for a basic look. However, getting a proper inspection done by trained technicians means the whole system gets evaluated, not just the belt itself. Do Not Confuse It With a Timing Belt It is worth noting that the serpentine belt and the timing belt are two different things. The timing belt controls the camshaft and keeps your engine’s internal timing synchronized. The serpentine belt handles external accessories. Both are important, but they fail in different ways and serve different purposes. If you are shopping for information online, you may come across general automotive information sources. While these can offer general guidance, nothing replaces having your specific vehicle inspected by someone who knows what they are looking at. When Should You Get It Replaced? Most manufacturers recommend inspecting the serpentine belt every 30,000 miles and replacing it somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. However, symptoms should always override mileage estimates. If your vehicle is making noise, showing warning lights, or behaving differently, do not wait for your next scheduled service. Don’t Ignore the Symptoms of a Bad Serpentine Belt A squealing noise from under the hood is not something to brush off. It is often one of the clearest symptoms of a bad serpentine belt, and the longer you wait, the more damage you risk to your engine, alternator, and other key systems. If you are hearing strange sounds or noticing changes in your steering or A/C, call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 to schedule an inspection. Their technicians will give your vehicle an honest, thorough look before any work begins.

Winter Car Checklist: What to Inspect Before You Drive Winter in Covington, IN is not something you can ease into. Temperatures drop fast, roads get slick, and one snowstorm can turn a normal commute into a genuine emergency. Your vehicle takes on a lot of stress during these months, and skipping a proper winter car checklist is one of the fastest ways to find yourself stranded on the side of the road. The good news? A little preparation goes a long way. Why Winter Is So Hard on Your Vehicle Cold weather creates a unique kind of wear and tear that most drivers underestimate. Freezing temperatures affect everything from your battery to your tire pressure, your engine fluids, and even your windshield wipers. The stress compounds quickly, and what seemed like a minor issue in October can become a roadside breakdown in January. The Winter Car Checklist You Should Not Skip Start With Your Tires Your tires are your first line of defense on icy roads. Check your tire tread depth before the cold really sets in. A quick way to test it is the penny method – insert a penny into the tread groove, and if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, it is time for new tires. Also check your cold inflation pressure regularly. Tire pressure drops about one PSI for every 10-degree drop in temperature. Under-inflated tires reduce traction and increase your risk of a traffic collision, especially when snow or ice is involved. If you are driving a truck or larger vehicle, this matters even more. Some drivers in colder climates choose snow tires, which are designed to grip better on icy surfaces than all-season options. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system can help you compare options if you are shopping around. Check Your Battery Cold weather is brutal on a battery. If your battery is more than three years old, have it tested before winter arrives. A battery that barely gets you through fall mornings might fail completely when the temperature drops below freezing. Inspect Your Fluids Antifreeze, also called coolant, keeps your engine from freezing in extreme cold. Check the coolant reservoir and make sure the mixture is appropriate for winter temperatures. Low or old coolant can lead to a cracked engine block, which is an expensive lesson nobody wants to learn. Top off your windshield washer fluid with a formula rated for freezing temperatures. Regular water will freeze in the reservoir and leave you with zero visibility during a snowplow pass or early morning frost. Do not overlook brake fluid either – a leak in the brake system becomes far more dangerous on slick roads. Do Not Ignore Your Brakes Speaking of brakes, your anti-lock braking system (ABS) is one of the most critical safety features for winter driving. If your brake pedal feels soft, your stopping distance seems longer, or you hear grinding, get that looked at before the first ice storm hits. Automotive safety starts with being able to stop when it counts. Visibility Matters More Than You Think Check your windscreen wipers and replace any that are streaking or skipping. Winter wiper blades are worth the small investment. Also inspect your headlamps – cloudy or dim headlights cut your visibility significantly on dark winter roads, and other drivers need to see you too. Build a Winter Emergency Survival Kit Even with a complete checklist, emergencies happen. Keep a basic survival kit in your vehicle. This should include a blanket, jumper cables, a flashlight, an ice scraper, and basic first aid supplies. If you travel with a child, ensure their car seat or child safety seat is properly secured and appropriate for winter layers. Get Your Vehicle Ready Before Winter Hits Rust, leaks, and ignored warning lights all get worse in cold weather. A professional inspection before the season starts catches small problems before they become big ones. At Newnum and Sons Garage in Covington, IN, the technicians are trained to spot the kinds of wear that winter accelerates. If you are due for a brake inspection this season, schedule a brake service with the team at Newnum and Sons Garage. You can also call them directly at 765-793-3334 to book your winter vehicle checkup before the next storm rolls through. Get Your Winter Car Checklist Done Before the First Storm Winter driving demands a reliable vehicle, and that starts with a thorough winter car checklist. From your tires and battery to your brakes and fluids, every system matters when the temperature drops and the roads get dangerous. Skipping these checks is not saving time – it is risking your safety. Let the experienced team at Newnum and Sons Garage help you get ahead of winter before it gets the better of your vehicle.

Types of Belts in Cars: Every Kind Explained Most drivers never think about the belts running through their engine bay until something goes wrong. By then, the damage is already done. Understanding the types of belts in cars is one of the simplest ways to protect your vehicle from a breakdown that could have been prevented. What Do Belts Actually Do in Your Car? Belts in your engine are not just rubber loops. They are the connectors that keep critical systems working together. Without them, your alternator stops charging your electric battery, your power steering pump stops working, and your air conditioning compressor goes silent. In short, belts transfer power from your crankshaft to the components that make your car actually drivable. The Two Main Types of Belts in Cars The Serpentine Belt The serpentine belt is the long, flat belt you can usually see when you pop the hood. It winds around a series of pulleys and drives several accessories at once, including the alternator, the power steering pump, the air conditioning compressor, and sometimes the radiator cooling fan. It is made from reinforced natural rubber and is designed to flex without cracking under heat. Over time, though, heat and friction break it down. If this belt snaps while you are driving, you lose steering assist, your battery stops charging, and your HVAC system cuts out entirely. Signs of a worn serpentine belt include: Squealing or chirping noise from the engine bay Visible cracking or fraying along the belt surface Battery warning light appearing on the dashboard Loss of power steering response Most manufacturers recommend inspecting the serpentine belt every 60,000 to 100,000 miles, though that number can vary based on your vehicle and driving conditions. The Timing Belt The timing belt is harder to see and even more critical. It connects the crankshaft to the camshaft, keeping the engine’s valves opening and closing in perfect sync with the pistons. If the timing belt breaks, the engine does not just stall. Depending on your engine type, the pistons and valves can collide, causing catastrophic internal damage. Replacing a timing belt proactively costs a fraction of what an engine rebuild would run you. Different groups and associations consistently list timing belt failure as one of the top causes of unexpected engine damage. It is often invisible until it is too late, which is why routine inspection matters. What to watch for: A ticking or slapping noise near the top of the engine Difficulty starting the vehicle or misfires Oil leaking from the front of the engine A rough idle that was not there before Most timing belts need replacement between 60,000 and 105,000 miles. Check your owner’s manual or ask a technician to confirm the right interval for your car. A Third Belt Worth Knowing: The V-Belt Older vehicles and some specialty applications still use V-belts, which are wedge-shaped and typically drive a single accessory each. You might find separate V-belts running the power steering pump, the cooling fan, or the air conditioning compressor individually. Modern vehicles have largely moved to a single serpentine belt setup, but if you are driving an older car, it is worth knowing whether your car still uses V-belts. Why Belt Inspections Are Not Optional Belts degrade from the inside out. The outer surface might look fine while the internal cords are already starting to separate. That is why a visual check alone is not enough. A proper belt inspection involves checking tension, looking for glazing or cracking, and examining the pulleys and hose routing nearby. Neglecting this step puts your fuel efficiency and engine temperature control at risk. Keep Your Car Running: Check Your Belts Before They Fail Your car’s belts are small components doing enormous jobs. Whether it is the serpentine belt powering your alternator and steering or the timing belt keeping your engine in sync, a failure in either one can leave you stranded or facing a costly engine repair. If you cannot remember the last time your belts were checked, now is the right time to schedule an inspection. Call Newnum and Sons Garage at 765-793-3334 to get your engine looked at by technicians who take belt maintenance seriously.

10 Things to Do in Covington, IN While You Wait for Your Car Repair Dropping your vehicle off for service does not have to mean sitting in a waiting room and watching the clock. Whether you are in for a quick oil change or a more involved job like engine repair or transmission repair, Newnum and Sons Garage sits right in the heart of downtown Covington, which means good food, errands, and a few relaxing options are all within an easy walk of our shop at 408 Liberty Street. Here are ten easy ways to spend your time while our ASE-certified technicians take care of your vehicle. 1. Grab a Coffee or a Meal at Courthouse Cafe Just a short walk down Liberty Street, Courthouse Cafe is a comfortable spot to sit down with a hot coffee and something to eat while your car is on the lift. It is a good choice if you dropped your vehicle off in the morning and want breakfast, or if you would rather sip coffee and catch up on emails than sit in our lobby. 2. Treat Yourself at Sundae Shoppe If your service is going to take a little longer, or you just want a sweet break, Sundae Shoppe on 4th Street is worth the walk. A sundae or milkshake is a small way to make an unexpected repair feel a little less stressful, especially if you have kids waiting with you. 3. Knock Out Banking Errands Covington has several banking options within a few blocks of our shop, including Old National Bank and Industrial Federal Credit Union on Washington Street, plus The Fountain Trust Company on 3rd Street. Waiting on a repair is a good time to make a deposit, talk to a loan officer, or handle any banking you have been putting off, since you already have the time set aside and you are already downtown. 4. Take Some Time for Yourself at Two Roads Wellness Clinic Located on 4th Street, Two Roads Wellness Clinic is a good option if you would rather use your wait time to take care of yourself instead of running errands. Car trouble can be stressful, and a short wellness appointment can help turn an inconvenient afternoon into something productive. 5. Have Lunch or Watch the Game at Northside Pub If your vehicle is in for something more involved, like suspension and brake work or a driveline repair, you may have a few hours to fill. Northside Pub on Washington Street is a comfortable place to grab lunch, watch whatever game is on, and relax while our technicians work. 6. Pick Up Groceries at County Market Waiting for a repair is a good excuse to knock out your grocery list. County Market on 3rd Street carries deli items in addition to standard groceries, so you can grab lunch and the ingredients for dinner in the same trip, then head back to pick up your vehicle once we call. 7. Fill a Prescription or Pick Up Essentials at CVS Pharmacy If you need to refill a prescription, pick up something for a headache, or grab travel-size toiletries, CVS Pharmacy on 3rd Street is a quick stop. It is an easy way to check something off your to-do list while you wait, especially for shorter jobs like a tire rotation or a computer diagnostics check. 8. Relax or Get Work Done at Covington Public Library For a quiet place to read, work on a laptop, or just get away from noise for a while, the Covington Public Library on 5th Street is one of the best options in town. It is a particularly good fit if your vehicle is in for a longer repair and you would rather work than run errands. 9. Take a Walk Around Downtown Covington Covington’s downtown area is small and walkable, with a historic courthouse square and a mix of local shops. If the weather is nice, a walk around downtown is a simple, free way to pass the time, clear your head, and stretch your legs before heading back to pick up your vehicle. 10. Learn More About Keeping Your Vehicle Running Well While you are waiting, it is also a good time to think ahead. Our blogs cover maintenance tips, seasonal service reminders, and answers to common questions about heating and cooling systems, electrical issues, and more. A few minutes of reading now can help you avoid a surprise repair down the road. We Will Have You Back on the Road Soon At Newnum and Sons Garage, we know a car in the shop can throw off your whole day, which is why we work to get every vehicle back to its owner as quickly as we can without cutting corners. We have proudly served Covington and the surrounding area for over 40 years, and our ASE-certified technicians stand behind their work with a one-year warranty on most parts and labor. If you need to schedule a repair or want to ask about how long a specific job might take, contact us or give us a call at (765) 793-3334. And if you would like to know more about who we are and how we work, visit our About Us page.